Clutch Replacement
Discussion
I've got my gearbox out and the clutch removed to slot in the replacement but there is a complication...
Unfortunately the old one looks pretty much as new, being a nice AP unit. Very little wear on the plate (if any) and on the diaphram or release bearing, infact the release fork looks brand new too. All of this nicely greased with copper slip which isn't dirty. I did txt the previous owner who said he never had it changed so that didn't help.
Anyway, the problem is I have a very high biting point on the pedal and with everything looking new, its a puzzle. Its had a new slave and master cylinder and there is definately no air in the system.
Now our theory lies in a 2mm washer that looks out of place on the release fork pivot. Have a look at the pic below and you'll see a shiney big washer under the pivot. Does anyone know if its supposed to be there?
I am out of idea's apart from that, any suggestions welcome as I need to get the clutch sorted ASAP for going to LeMans.
Dan.
Unfortunately the old one looks pretty much as new, being a nice AP unit. Very little wear on the plate (if any) and on the diaphram or release bearing, infact the release fork looks brand new too. All of this nicely greased with copper slip which isn't dirty. I did txt the previous owner who said he never had it changed so that didn't help.
Anyway, the problem is I have a very high biting point on the pedal and with everything looking new, its a puzzle. Its had a new slave and master cylinder and there is definately no air in the system.
Now our theory lies in a 2mm washer that looks out of place on the release fork pivot. Have a look at the pic below and you'll see a shiney big washer under the pivot. Does anyone know if its supposed to be there?
I am out of idea's apart from that, any suggestions welcome as I need to get the clutch sorted ASAP for going to LeMans.
Dan.
Looks like a T5 g/box as I can see the inspection window at the bottom - sadly mines an LT77 so I can't check for you but you are spot on .. if you remove the washer then the bit point will be lower.
Is it installed on all T5 boxes to spread the load on the bell housing or was it put there as a crack is evident ..
Take it off and have a look.. maybe a thinner flatter washer might do the trick.
Is it installed on all T5 boxes to spread the load on the bell housing or was it put there as a crack is evident ..
Take it off and have a look.. maybe a thinner flatter washer might do the trick.
Hi Dan,
The washer is standard, well I assume it is as mine has exactly the same one fitted and it hasn't been touched before I stripped it down.
The high biting point is something a few here have experienced, me included, there is no definitive answer as to what causes it.
I replaced my clutch master cylinder as the old ones seals were leaking very slightly, this then moved the biting point right up & caused the clutch to start making noises when the pedal was pressed.
I thought the clutch had probably had it, but similar to you found that all components were in very good condition. The only possibly area of wear that I have identified is on the end of the fingers where the release bering pushes on, so I will replace this and hope for the best!
If all else fails the easy way foward is to trim a few mm off the length of the slave cylinder push rod.
The only theory I have is that the replacement master cylinders being fitted are in some way sightly different to the origonals?
Good luck Andy
The washer is standard, well I assume it is as mine has exactly the same one fitted and it hasn't been touched before I stripped it down.
The high biting point is something a few here have experienced, me included, there is no definitive answer as to what causes it.
I replaced my clutch master cylinder as the old ones seals were leaking very slightly, this then moved the biting point right up & caused the clutch to start making noises when the pedal was pressed.
I thought the clutch had probably had it, but similar to you found that all components were in very good condition. The only possibly area of wear that I have identified is on the end of the fingers where the release bering pushes on, so I will replace this and hope for the best!
If all else fails the easy way foward is to trim a few mm off the length of the slave cylinder push rod.
The only theory I have is that the replacement master cylinders being fitted are in some way sightly different to the origonals?
Good luck Andy
Interesting Andy, although the replacement cylinders where bought through TVR Car Parts, I wonder if the displacement is different in some way.
To be honest, I think I am almost happy to put the car back together again as it is.
Mine has very slight wear in the diaphram fingers but nothing that would worry me.
Many thanks for everyones replies.
Dan.
To be honest, I think I am almost happy to put the car back together again as it is.
Mine has very slight wear in the diaphram fingers but nothing that would worry me.
Many thanks for everyones replies.
Dan.
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