Seizing front brake
Discussion
Just had the fright of my life... drove my new 98 Chim a couple of miles, pulled up at the lights and smoke poured out from the drivers side wheel arch. After a couple of panicky seconds thinking i had a fire, i noticed that the smoke was coming from the drivers side brake caliper.
Panic over i assumed the brake had seized on so let them cool down and hoped that the caliper would un-seize. Luckily for me it partially did and i drove carefully home keeping braking very light.
Anyway the question, I now have to take the thing apart to see what the problem is but I am new to TVR's... and I cant see how I "change the pads" which would allow me to look at why the caliper is seizing at the same time.
Can you guys point me in the right direction please? I will get the bible soon....
Couple of follow on questions: what pads should i now install? I dont really want racing / fast road pads, i prefer to have good brakes from cold.
Also is a seizing caliper common?
Thanks
RT
Panic over i assumed the brake had seized on so let them cool down and hoped that the caliper would un-seize. Luckily for me it partially did and i drove carefully home keeping braking very light.
Anyway the question, I now have to take the thing apart to see what the problem is but I am new to TVR's... and I cant see how I "change the pads" which would allow me to look at why the caliper is seizing at the same time.
Can you guys point me in the right direction please? I will get the bible soon....
Couple of follow on questions: what pads should i now install? I dont really want racing / fast road pads, i prefer to have good brakes from cold.
Also is a seizing caliper common?
Thanks
RT
They are ford Sierra calipers. If it has got that hot then you have probably damaged / warped the disc as well.
Probably best to strip it down a get the seals replaced in the caliper, or some motor factors will do re furbished exchanges. And take your disc along to so they can work out which ford it came from.
Probably best to strip it down a get the seals replaced in the caliper, or some motor factors will do re furbished exchanges. And take your disc along to so they can work out which ford it came from.
Do you know how i get them off?
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Un-do the bolts? The caliper will slide off over the disks. Just put new pads and disks on my 94 Chim and its straight forward enough.
You may get away with freeing the piston off by pushing it back and forward and spraying a lubricant around piston/seal. Remember to keep an eye on the fluid level in the resivoir.
Pads will most likely be shot if they got that hot - if there is plenty meat on them you could de-glaze the surfaces? Also, put some heat proof grease or copper slip on the back of the pads where they are in contact with the pistons to limit sqealing.
As you say, disks may be OK - they usually warp when heated and cooled rapidly but worth checking. They are relatively cheap to replace - if you do get new ones remember to de-grease them.
I would do this to all four corners...has the car been standing for some time?
[/quote]
Un-do the bolts? The caliper will slide off over the disks. Just put new pads and disks on my 94 Chim and its straight forward enough.
You may get away with freeing the piston off by pushing it back and forward and spraying a lubricant around piston/seal. Remember to keep an eye on the fluid level in the resivoir.
Pads will most likely be shot if they got that hot - if there is plenty meat on them you could de-glaze the surfaces? Also, put some heat proof grease or copper slip on the back of the pads where they are in contact with the pistons to limit sqealing.
As you say, disks may be OK - they usually warp when heated and cooled rapidly but worth checking. They are relatively cheap to replace - if you do get new ones remember to de-grease them.
I would do this to all four corners...has the car been standing for some time?
Having had the exact same problem can i suggest you also check that your brake lines are ok - i had the rubber ones and even after changing the caliper i had the same problem. Turns out they had blocked inside and were not letting fluid back through fast enough. Changed to stainless and no problems since.
Could be a sticking caliper, or damaged hoses acting as a one-way valve, or the master cylinder not retracting far enough to open the reservoir port when you are off the brakes. The latter can be caused by wear/dirt within the cylinder, but also by having the pushrod adjusted too tight. The net effect is that the braking system is a sealed circuit even when you are off the brakes, so there is nowhere for the fluid to go when it expends with temperature and starts applying pressure to the calipers. This would affect both sides equally, so if you only have the problem at one corner I'd be looking for a problem with the hose/caliper on that corner.
I would be inclined to change both for re/man units(brake imbalance is a strong possibility if you dont)try someone like http://www.scmf.co.uk/home.asp or http://www.eurocarparts.com/ good luck 
occasionaluse said:
Having had the exact same problem can i suggest you also check that your brake lines are ok - i had the rubber ones and even after changing the caliper i had the same problem. Turns out they had blocked inside and were not letting fluid back through fast enough. Changed to stainless and no problems since.
I also had the same problem on my Chimaera. Changing seals etc made no difference and as the problem only affected one wheel there was only one conclusion - a flexible pipe internal failure - which turned out to be correct. It seems that this is more common than you would think. The rubber breakdown forms a one way valve and the hotter the brakes get the more the fluid and any trapped air bubbles expand.Mike
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