petrol leak advice
petrol leak advice
Author
Discussion

nordin450

Original Poster:

52 posts

250 months

Thursday 24th July 2008
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Hi All,

Got a bit of a nasty petrol leak under the bonnet that need sorting asap. Quick question if anyone knows if I can source this part in Halfrauds or similar rather than having to make the journey to a TVR shop? Also, if I change the rubber myself (it looks very easy), will the effect just be loss of a bit of fuel or may I end up in trouble for example by getting air into the fuel injection system?

Will attempt to attach two pictures that clearly shows the problematic rubber.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Johan



TVR-Boy

176 posts

221 months

Friday 25th July 2008
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My first point of call would be to look up under LandRover V8 or anything like that, possibly the same part and a lot cheaper?

As for the air in the system, you'll be fine. I just replaced my pump and filter using pipe clamps, but obviously there was air in the filter etc. When I turned the ignition on, the pump primed & pressurised the system and it all started up no problem. Just remember to disconnect the battery whenever you dismantle the fuel system, just to be safe as electric sparks and petrol mix very well!wink

chrispitman

742 posts

285 months

Friday 25th July 2008
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Just go down the local motor factors and get a length of Fuel Injection hose make shure its high pressure type, the pipe is probably under presure so wrap a cloth around it when you pull it off, the other end of the pipe is between the bulk head and back of engine you won't beable to get your hand down there, so best bet is to remove the plenum on top of the engine with 6 allen bolts, remove the flex pipe on pass side and then lift the plenum off its a tight fit due to the mesh at the bottom of the screen. Put some thing over the 8 trumpets as you dont want to drop anything down there. Also get a small tube of clear or blue hylomar instant gasket and put a little around the base of the plenum to seal when you put back together.

Also worth doing the other hose at same time.

Del 203

12,728 posts

280 months

Friday 25th July 2008
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chrispitman said:
the other end of the pipe is between the bulk head
Not in that picwink



TVR-Boy

176 posts

221 months

Friday 25th July 2008
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Just to clarify as it does look a bit confusing, the pipe in question is the black flexi rubber pipe on top of the rocker cover?...or is it the metal 90 degree pipe above it?

Edited by TVR-Boy on Friday 25th July 09:11

PRTVR

8,238 posts

252 months

Friday 25th July 2008
quotequote all
chrispitman said:
Just go down the local motor factors and get a length of Fuel Injection hose make shure its high pressure type, the pipe is probably under presure so wrap a cloth around it when you pull it off, the other end of the pipe is between the bulk head and back of engine you won't beable to get your hand down there, so best bet is to remove the plenum on top of the engine with 6 allen bolts, remove the flex pipe on pass side and then lift the plenum off its a tight fit due to the mesh at the bottom of the screen. Put some thing over the 8 trumpets as you dont want to drop anything down there. Also get a small tube of clear or blue hylomar instant gasket and put a little around the base of the plenum to seal when you put back together.

Also worth doing the other hose at same time.
Looking at the picture,it looks like the car could have air con and he might get away without removing the plenum, I think I read that the hose is 7mm on air con cars. I change my hoses recently and had no problem with air lock, the general consensus I think is that it is a good idea to change the clips to proper fuel line clips and not jubilee clips, having said that good luck in trying to find them, at the correct size, I nearly lost the will to live trying to get some locally.
ended up using new jubilee clips, not a problem as they were on the car originally and had been ok.

the search function at the top of the page may help as well (use advanced search )
edited to add you can de pressure the fuel rail using a valve
(you can just see the black cap on the fuel rail behind the coil on one of your pictures ) remove the cap and
it is just like an air valve on your tyres, push in the pin to vent, cover with a cloth to stop it spraying around, but if you have a leak its a good chance there will be no pressure.

Edited by PRTVR on Friday 25th July 09:58

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

235 months

Friday 25th July 2008
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Are these the type of clips you want?

http://www.superclips.co.uk/


nordin450

Original Poster:

52 posts

250 months

Friday 25th July 2008
quotequote all
TVR-Boy said:
Just to clarify as it does look a bit confusing, the pipe in question is the black flexi rubber pipe on top of the rocker cover?...or is it the metal 90 degree pipe above it?
It's the Black flexi rubber that needs replacing. Looks very straightforward, just need a new bit of rubber, and the classic google trick using the information on the pipe hasn't helped either :-(

Might duck tape it for now and then drive it to nearest TVR service station, but suspect they won't stock it and then I'm without car for a few days :-(

PRTVR

8,238 posts

252 months

Friday 25th July 2008
quotequote all
nordin450 said:
TVR-Boy said:
Just to clarify as it does look a bit confusing, the pipe in question is the black flexi rubber pipe on top of the rocker cover?...or is it the metal 90 degree pipe above it?
It's the Black flexi rubber that needs replacing. Looks very straightforward, just need a new bit of rubber, and the classic google trick using the information on the pipe hasn't helped either :-(

Might duck tape it for now and then drive it to nearest TVR service station, but suspect they won't stock it and then I'm without car for a few days :-(
the fuel hose works at high pressure duck tape may not work leading to a fire!!!!!!!
the hose you can get from any motor factors and just re use the clips, as has been said just make sure it is for fuel injected cars. it is reasonable easy to do, but if you are unsure of what you are doing, you can get any garage to sort it its not tvr specific hose.

Adrian@

4,648 posts

313 months

Friday 25th July 2008
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Ensure that this is replaced as original (the connection onto the air conditioner heat exchanger is a 7mm connection) do not be tempted to use 8MM as then the pipe tends to blow off.....the BIGGEST electrical switch in the car is right below the manifold (the starter soleniod) and it is that which will prompt any fire.
Adrian@
You can change this your self once the power is disconnected....it would be wise to check and replace the other 2 rubber connections at the same time (these just might be 8mm).

Edited by Adrian@ on Friday 25th July 15:08

nordin450

Original Poster:

52 posts

250 months

Saturday 26th July 2008
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Found a local parts store, cut to measure 7mm fuel hose (standard) at the price of £1.50, with new clips it came to a total of £2.30. Took 5mins to get off and 2 minutes to fit. Not a bad result in the end and another usefull peice of experience gained from the joy of owning a TVR :-)

TVR-Boy

176 posts

221 months

Saturday 26th July 2008
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Brilliant, job done!

Always nice when it works out easy.