Sensible Trackday Mods?
Discussion
Having recently involved myself in some trackdays what would be sensible mods to do on the car to make it better on track? Any sensible suggestions for a 99 500 Chim much appreciated. Along the lines of suspension,tyres, bushes brakes etc. Im running 17" Wheels. I don't want it to end up solely for track use either otherwise I'd sell up and buy a Honda powered Elise... Which I just can't bring myself to do.
Hi there, I have done a few track days in the past (and still do) in many different cars. Firstly (and probably most obviously) I would give the car a really good service, make sure everything is tip top. Then I would look at the brakes, I'd want to ensure that I can stop.
Next, I would probably do suspension, tyres etc, and lastly performance mods on the engine. I would also perhaps install four point harnesses and see if you can reduce any car weight?
Next, I would probably do suspension, tyres etc, and lastly performance mods on the engine. I would also perhaps install four point harnesses and see if you can reduce any car weight?
Well I've had Nitrons and Wilwoods on mine not long and took the Chim to Snett on Monday and I have to say, I'm massively impressed with the results! The brakes behaved faultlessly and stopped hard every time with no loss of pedal feel despite a fair bit of abuse which gave me great confidence to push the car further into to corners without braking. Then the Nitrons started off pretty good on road settings, but then I clicked them up a couple of notches all the way round and the difference was amazing! It stuck like glue to the road and seemed to corner like it was on rails.
So in my humble opinion, if you want to go faster, upgrade your brakes and shocks - you won't be dissappointed!
So in my humble opinion, if you want to go faster, upgrade your brakes and shocks - you won't be dissappointed!
thenick said:
Well I've had Nitrons and Wilwoods on mine not long and took the Chim to Snett on Monday and I have to say, I'm massively impressed with the results! The brakes behaved faultlessly and stopped hard every time with no loss of pedal feel despite a fair bit of abuse which gave me great confidence to push the car further into to corners without braking. Then the Nitrons started off pretty good on road settings, but then I clicked them up a couple of notches all the way round and the difference was amazing! It stuck like glue to the road and seemed to corner like it was on rails.
So in my humble opinion, if you want to go faster, upgrade your brakes and shocks - you won't be dissappointed!
Spot on, spend money on brakes, shocks/springs, maybe some R888's before any power hikeSo in my humble opinion, if you want to go faster, upgrade your brakes and shocks - you won't be dissappointed!
The best car mod you will ever do is to get more driver training.
After that, concentrate on the things that are limiting your enjoyment at track days.
If you're cooking the brakes, learn not to use them as much or upgrade them or both.
If you're struggling to control the car on the limit get more training and / or improve the handling with suspension adjustments and upgrades.
If you're falling out of the seat, change the seat of get extra side support fitted or fit rollover protection and a decent harness.
... and so on.
After that, concentrate on the things that are limiting your enjoyment at track days.
If you're cooking the brakes, learn not to use them as much or upgrade them or both.
If you're struggling to control the car on the limit get more training and / or improve the handling with suspension adjustments and upgrades.
If you're falling out of the seat, change the seat of get extra side support fitted or fit rollover protection and a decent harness.
... and so on.
Markh said:
thenick said:
Well I've had Nitrons and Wilwoods on mine not long and took the Chim to Snett on Monday and I have to say, I'm massively impressed with the results! The brakes behaved faultlessly and stopped hard every time with no loss of pedal feel despite a fair bit of abuse which gave me great confidence to push the car further into to corners without braking. Then the Nitrons started off pretty good on road settings, but then I clicked them up a couple of notches all the way round and the difference was amazing! It stuck like glue to the road and seemed to corner like it was on rails.
So in my humble opinion, if you want to go faster, upgrade your brakes and shocks - you won't be dissappointed!
Spot on, spend money on brakes, shocks/springs, maybe some R888's before any power hikeSo in my humble opinion, if you want to go faster, upgrade your brakes and shocks - you won't be dissappointed!
TVR Pablo said:
More boringly, suggest a rollbar would be a good investment. Tower View's is good and because (I think) it's bolted to the chassis you get a bit of extra stiffness too. You can't see as much out the back but that shouldn't be worrying you...
Agreed with Roll Bar - If you're in the West Country try TR Lane's Roll bar - I have, great investment and I can now use full harness to stop the leather seat sliding underneath me!!Try: Neil Garner Performance Engineering
Unit 3 Kemble Business Park
Nr Malmesbury
Wiltshire
SN16 9SH
Tel 01666 577449
Opening Hours
Mon-Fri 8.30-5-30
Sat 8.30-1.00
Trev McM
Are you sure you don't work for my company?
sapper said:
Markh said:
thenick said:
Well I've had Nitrons and Wilwoods on mine not long and took the Chim to Snett on Monday and I have to say, I'm massively impressed with the results! The brakes behaved faultlessly and stopped hard every time with no loss of pedal feel despite a fair bit of abuse which gave me great confidence to push the car further into to corners without braking. Then the Nitrons started off pretty good on road settings, but then I clicked them up a couple of notches all the way round and the difference was amazing! It stuck like glue to the road and seemed to corner like it was on rails.
So in my humble opinion, if you want to go faster, upgrade your brakes and shocks - you won't be dissappointed!
Spot on, spend money on brakes, shocks/springs, maybe some R888's before any power hikeSo in my humble opinion, if you want to go faster, upgrade your brakes and shocks - you won't be dissappointed!
V8 Animal
As well as the tweeks mentioned previously , if i were youu , i'd consider harness belts, in conjunction with a roll bar of course.
Nothing too elaborate, i have Willans 3 point clubman harnesses in my Chim - the "strapped to the car" feeling makes every corner more vivid and enables you to read the car's behaviour much better than with convetional belts.
Nothing too elaborate, i have Willans 3 point clubman harnesses in my Chim - the "strapped to the car" feeling makes every corner more vivid and enables you to read the car's behaviour much better than with convetional belts.
Thanks for all the sugestions lads. All exactly what i thought, thought i didn't think about the roll bars but did get me thinking about Anti-Roll bars. I've pretty much decided that i need a set of Toyo 888's but the last two trackdays I've been on at Knockhill has been wet for a few hours in the morning. Was glad i had the Uniroyal Rainsports on then but as the track dried out the tyres were always the limiting factor.
Bushes, suspension and brakes. Has anyone done a comparison between the Protech shocks and Gaz?
What about powerflex bushes? I don't want the chassis to get too hard for road use. And brakes, Is there any real need to go larger than the Cossie front discs and Granada Caliper combo, i don't think so in a car so light.
Driver training is always a good call, i took the instructor at Knockhill out with me last time out and he was always very helpful. I've always driven the TVR like i ride a motorbike being as smooth as possible.
Does anyone else remember the Topgear when Jackie Stewart took Captain Slow out in a Tuscan?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bps9Qm34cAc
I can always remember two things from that film. 1. Never put the throtle on in a corner until you know you never have to take it off again. Very true with the standard pitch snd roll a standard Chim can achieve. And 2. The bit when he pushes May without warning and when he tries to push him over slowly. Great stuff.
Bushes, suspension and brakes. Has anyone done a comparison between the Protech shocks and Gaz?
What about powerflex bushes? I don't want the chassis to get too hard for road use. And brakes, Is there any real need to go larger than the Cossie front discs and Granada Caliper combo, i don't think so in a car so light.
Driver training is always a good call, i took the instructor at Knockhill out with me last time out and he was always very helpful. I've always driven the TVR like i ride a motorbike being as smooth as possible.
Does anyone else remember the Topgear when Jackie Stewart took Captain Slow out in a Tuscan?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bps9Qm34cAc
I can always remember two things from that film. 1. Never put the throtle on in a corner until you know you never have to take it off again. Very true with the standard pitch snd roll a standard Chim can achieve. And 2. The bit when he pushes May without warning and when he tries to push him over slowly. Great stuff.
RetroWheels said:
As well as the tweeks mentioned previously , if i were youu , i'd consider harness belts, in conjunction with a roll bar of course.
Nothing too elaborate, i have Willans 3 point clubman harnesses in my Chim - the "strapped to the car" feeling makes every corner more vivid and enables you to read the car's behaviour much better than with convetional belts.
Thats a a great call, but I'd definetly need a rool bar of sorts then. I take it theres no other way of securing them without one. Would also stop me using THE most annoying seatbelts in the world!Nothing too elaborate, i have Willans 3 point clubman harnesses in my Chim - the "strapped to the car" feeling makes every corner more vivid and enables you to read the car's behaviour much better than with convetional belts.
Pau1 said:
Thats a a great call, but I'd definetly need a rool bar of sorts then. I take it theres no other way of securing them without one. Would also stop me using THE most annoying seatbelts in the world!
It is possible to fit a full harness without a rollover bar, but if you do this then almost any accident which involves the car rolling, becomes fatal. Without the harness you can twist over the tunnel and get yourself below the bodywork, giving yourself a good chance of survival. With the harness you are kept firmly upright meaning that you would loose everything from the chest up.
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