Strange happening
Discussion
Ain't much more to tell
Shot of the lights flat out then it just cut out
Nothing died thought I had broken the throttle cable but every thing was till there
Lots of trys on the key
Would catch but not run
Fuel pump was priming
Then (after several trys ) it started
Is at the next lights I had another go and it was fine and stayed running all the way home
Shot of the lights flat out then it just cut out
Nothing died thought I had broken the throttle cable but every thing was till there
Lots of trys on the key
Would catch but not run
Fuel pump was priming
Then (after several trys ) it started
Is at the next lights I had another go and it was fine and stayed running all the way home
When I was getting the Chimaera started yeaterday (for the first time in a year or so) it started absolutely fine, I drove it around for a bit, then I moved the ECU out the way for a mate to climb into the passenger seat, and the car died! Wasn't happy starting, and when it did it wanted to stall all the time. The connections around the ECU are notoriously flakey! Bit of fiddling and it was fne again.
Edited by _Dan_ on Sunday 21st September 11:18
The engine wiring loom can chafe between the back of the block and the bulkhead. Quite a few cars have suffered this, mine included.
I had similar symptoms. Unfortunately it is necessary to remove the trumpet base to get the access to check this properly. So I wouldn’t rush to check there first, but if you can’t find anything else then check it out.
Mine would cut out when accelerating, or decelerating hard; either from rolling or standing starts the most. Usually when changing gear. But occasionally it would just do it driving steadily. It would restart much the way you describe too.
It was very difficult to make it do it on a rolling road. TVR Power had it on their rollers four hours before we got it to do it once. I think it it’s more to do with inertia moving the wire and that doesn’t happen when the car isn’t moving, even if the wheels are going around.
I ended up having to replace the whole engine loom. I took the opportunity to fit an Emerald with a custom loom that was rerouted to avoid this area. It can’t chafe there because it doesn’t run there. It runs where it can easily be checked.
The original looms are now getting old and have always been subjected to high under bonnet temperatures. In time they will all fail. It can become cheaper to replace the loom than keep chasing faults. The key is judge the right time to do it.
I had similar symptoms. Unfortunately it is necessary to remove the trumpet base to get the access to check this properly. So I wouldn’t rush to check there first, but if you can’t find anything else then check it out.
Mine would cut out when accelerating, or decelerating hard; either from rolling or standing starts the most. Usually when changing gear. But occasionally it would just do it driving steadily. It would restart much the way you describe too.
It was very difficult to make it do it on a rolling road. TVR Power had it on their rollers four hours before we got it to do it once. I think it it’s more to do with inertia moving the wire and that doesn’t happen when the car isn’t moving, even if the wheels are going around.
I ended up having to replace the whole engine loom. I took the opportunity to fit an Emerald with a custom loom that was rerouted to avoid this area. It can’t chafe there because it doesn’t run there. It runs where it can easily be checked.
The original looms are now getting old and have always been subjected to high under bonnet temperatures. In time they will all fail. It can become cheaper to replace the loom than keep chasing faults. The key is judge the right time to do it.
I was about to start a new topic, when I saw this one. This morning I had the first sign of what could be a developing problem. The car had been running fine yesterday, but this morning it turned over and started, but cut out after about a second. It did this at least half a dozen times, and it didn't matter whether my foot was on the throttle or not, it just wouldn't stay running. Eventually, and for no apparent reason, it started fine, and has been running OK since. Any ideas?
Don't take this the wrong way but judging by your comments on this thread and the other you may want to take it a bit more easy. Thrashing it and giving it berrys is all well and good but we are heading for the time of year where it's all too easy to end up in the hedge.
I'm not really a killjoy, but these things do bite
I'm not really a killjoy, but these things do bite
When you went for second gear and it died did you try to restart the engine on the key whilst the car was still moving? Because that would be a normal reaction. If so, I maybe have the answer.
Soon after I got my Chim I had the hot start problem. Decided on a straght bit of downhill to turn it off to see if it would start on the key, knowing that if not I could gently release the clutch to bump start it.(yes it was a dry road and no I wasn't about to dump the clutch at 40mph in 2nd gear!)
Not only would not start on the key but would not bump start either.
Sat in layby with the same problem as you, fuel pump priming, starter turning the engine and would fire but not catch.
Paced up and down for five minutes and it fired up and behaved perfectly.
Discussed it with Dream Machines who said you must only start it when stationary otherwise can b*gg*r up the ECU.
All to do with the speedo sender sending messages to the ECU apparently.
Of course it doesn't explain why your engine died in the first place so maybe this is totally irrelevent
Soon after I got my Chim I had the hot start problem. Decided on a straght bit of downhill to turn it off to see if it would start on the key, knowing that if not I could gently release the clutch to bump start it.(yes it was a dry road and no I wasn't about to dump the clutch at 40mph in 2nd gear!)
Not only would not start on the key but would not bump start either.
Sat in layby with the same problem as you, fuel pump priming, starter turning the engine and would fire but not catch.
Paced up and down for five minutes and it fired up and behaved perfectly.
Discussed it with Dream Machines who said you must only start it when stationary otherwise can b*gg*r up the ECU.
All to do with the speedo sender sending messages to the ECU apparently.
Of course it doesn't explain why your engine died in the first place so maybe this is totally irrelevent
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