Discussion
Getting some clutch slip in 4th and 5th so I am going to check the release bearing etc first to ensure it is returning properly as the biting point seems normal at halfway pedal travel (53K).
But if it needs a clutch, reading other threads dropping the gearbox myself seems doable. But I am worried about the weight of it etc if I am on my back with the car on axle stands/ramps. Has anybody else done it this way or should I be paying a garage upwards of £850 for the pleasure? (one quote from a TVR specialist
)
But if it needs a clutch, reading other threads dropping the gearbox myself seems doable. But I am worried about the weight of it etc if I am on my back with the car on axle stands/ramps. Has anybody else done it this way or should I be paying a garage upwards of £850 for the pleasure? (one quote from a TVR specialist
) If you were doing that you would definitely need a transmission jack. The 'box is pretty heavy, I haven't weighed it but I'd guess around 50 Kgs. That's a lot of weight to be moving around above your head at the best of times let alone trying to get the splines lined up upside down in a confined space.
It would take more effort to take the engine+box out as a lump, but I think you'd find it was a simpler and safer approach for DIY.
It would take more effort to take the engine+box out as a lump, but I think you'd find it was a simpler and safer approach for DIY.
Hi, I replaced my clutch this May, just jacked the car up on stands as high as they would go, access was a bit limited, but it is perfectly doable provided you are reasonably experienced, the gearbox is quite heavy, but I let mine down gently with a combination of a jack & using webbing straps with quick release tabs. It was more tricky putting it all back together, but not much worse than you would imagine.
Wost part is that most of the gearbox & bellhousing bolts were extremly tight & took all of my strength to undo them, resulting in me getting tenis elbow which still is not fully sorted....you have been warned!
Would I do it again to save several ££££, yes!
Good luck
Andy
Cant see how removing the engine & gearbox would be easier than dropping out the box off the engine in situ V8s
its only a rear wheel drive box,after all it as no converter or differential to up the weight,even DIY cant see this taking no more than a day(inc refreshments)some on here were posting up some reasonable costs from TVR specialist only a while ago,if you dont feel happy enough taking the job on then just ring around the often mentioned specialists Dogbucket 
its only a rear wheel drive box,after all it as no converter or differential to up the weight,even DIY cant see this taking no more than a day(inc refreshments)some on here were posting up some reasonable costs from TVR specialist only a while ago,if you dont feel happy enough taking the job on then just ring around the often mentioned specialists Dogbucket I did it recently, axle stands on back, piece of sailing rope around box and two jacks etc, I think the point about having experience or at least having done a clutch before is very important as it wasn't the easiest i have done. You have to believe! it will come out if you know what I mean! and the fact the bell housing does not drop out of the frame griffith (lt77)is a real pain. Please remember to drop motor off its mount. Great sense of satisfaction but I have a nice warm garage to work in, if you do not, and cannot leave the car and come back to it, you may regret.
I've just had mine done for exactly the same reason (slip in 4th and 5th). Grand total was £650.
I was informed by the mechanic that it could have been more. He reckons there must have been a change done to the chassis design at some point.
He said that with some there is a choice between cutting a cross member to get the gear box off, or remove the engine and gear box (although he did say he may have been getting confused with another model). Mines a '95 and access to the gearbox was no problem.
I was informed by the mechanic that it could have been more. He reckons there must have been a change done to the chassis design at some point.
He said that with some there is a choice between cutting a cross member to get the gear box off, or remove the engine and gear box (although he did say he may have been getting confused with another model). Mines a '95 and access to the gearbox was no problem.
ok well I will get a few more quotes before deciding. To be fair £850 was a complete AP jobbie with pretty much all the associated moving parts replaced. No doubt just replacing the friction plate would be cheaper.
Its a tough one as I do have a garage and an array of lovely tools, but have never done a clutch before
Its a tough one as I do have a garage and an array of lovely tools, but have never done a clutch before

MoreSteam said:
I've just had mine done for exactly the same reason (slip in 4th and 5th). Grand total was £650.
I was informed by the mechanic that it could have been more. He reckons there must have been a change done to the chassis design at some point.
He said that with some there is a choice between cutting a cross member to get the gear box off, or remove the engine and gear box (although he did say he may have been getting confused with another model). Mines a '95 and access to the gearbox was no problem.
He's probably thinking of the V8 Wedges - its full engine & gearbox out or make one of the chassis crossmembers removable.I was informed by the mechanic that it could have been more. He reckons there must have been a change done to the chassis design at some point.
He said that with some there is a choice between cutting a cross member to get the gear box off, or remove the engine and gear box (although he did say he may have been getting confused with another model). Mines a '95 and access to the gearbox was no problem.
David
djc100 said:
MoreSteam said:
I've just had mine done for exactly the same reason (slip in 4th and 5th). Grand total was £650.
I was informed by the mechanic that it could have been more. He reckons there must have been a change done to the chassis design at some point.
He said that with some there is a choice between cutting a cross member to get the gear box off, or remove the engine and gear box (although he did say he may have been getting confused with another model). Mines a '95 and access to the gearbox was no problem.
He's probably thinking of the V8 Wedges - its full engine & gearbox out or make one of the chassis crossmembers removable.I was informed by the mechanic that it could have been more. He reckons there must have been a change done to the chassis design at some point.
He said that with some there is a choice between cutting a cross member to get the gear box off, or remove the engine and gear box (although he did say he may have been getting confused with another model). Mines a '95 and access to the gearbox was no problem.
David
Cheers,
Matt.
Just thought I would finish this topic off by saying that in the end I got it fitted professionally and what a difference it has made. Back end is alot more lively in 3rd, proving there must have been slippage even in the lower gears. Pedal is also lighter and smoother and the engagement is more progressive 
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I'm certain it's a 4hr job(billed hours). That makes it a mighty labour rate. I'd shop around, I had mine done at a main dealer and it was nowhere near that.