DIY Waxoyling

[DoctorBonzo]

Anyone tired DIY waxoyling? I'm not too keen on paying £300 for the garage to waxoyl my chassis when a can of the stuff costs £7.50 form TVRshop.com Is there much to it?

[blitzracing]

Mucky Mucky Mucky and it takes some time to do a through job, but if you dont mind that its not a problem but its best applied with a compressor and various spray guns. You can thin it down to get it to creep into tight areas and cavities , and put it on thicker where water sprays under the car. It does also need re doing on a regular basis, as it dries up over time. I dont have a lot of time for the spray systems they sell with Waxoyl (Having said that I dont see them advertised any more.)

[Red V8]

Beware the perils of waxoyl... if you have surface rust you need to scrape/brush/grind it off and prepare the areas properly before painting with POR 15 or the likes and then wayoyl... waxoyl on its own on top of rust just hides the problem and isn't a good idea IMHO.

[That Daddy]

Red V8 said:

Beware the perils of waxoyl... if you have surface rust you need to scrape/brush/grind it off and prepare the areas properly before painting with POR 15 or the likes and then wayoyl... waxoyl on its own on top of rust just hides the problem a nd isn't a good idea IMHO.

[dogbucket]

I personally found the spray cans of Dinitrol much easier to use than Waxoyl, but then you are looking at £60-80 worth of cans to do the outriggers/suspension completely.

[That Daddy]

dogbucket said:

I personally found the spray cans of Dinitrol much easier to use than Waxoyl, but then you are looking at £60-80 worth of cans to do the outriggers/suspension completely.

Much better product too

[DavidLScott]

When I did my outriggers last winter I used POR15 and then used Dinitrol in a basic hand sprayer - it goes on a bit thick but did the job ok for a small area - would want to do that on the whole chassis.

Unless you can get get the car up on ramps and in a nice warm garage, I would pay someone else to do it.

[Chimtastic]

Take it to RT Racing in Sheffield thsy did my Chimtastic for me and did a real good job

[lifebegins@400]

Red V8 said:

Beware the perils of waxoyl... if you have surface rust you need to scrape/brush/grind it off and prepare the areas properly before painting with POR 15 or the likes and then wayoyl... waxoyl on its own on top of rust just hides the problem and isn't a good idea IMHO.

I was wondering about this myself. My chassis is not rotten but it undoubtedly has a lot of surface rust particularly on the outriggers. There is no way I could even hope to remove the rust properly without a body lift in which case you might as well weld in new sections while you're about it.

I have taken the view therefore that all I can really do is pressure wash it at intervals to stop mud and other debris trapping moisture against the top side of the tubing, but otherwise let nature take it's course and budget accordingly for repairs. Is this a realistic standpoint or is there more I could be doing? I just can't see that applying anything on top of the rust will achieve anything other than sealing it in but I am happy to be told otherwise!

Andy

[900T-R]

Well, 'sealing the rust in' will at least slow down the rusting process - if there's no oxygen and moisture coming through there won't be any more rust than there is now (OK, life's not so simple in reality - but you get the principle. Better still is applying something that will dissolve and loosen the rust and leave a protecting layer on the sound metal (which will need maintaining or painting mostly). I got a tin of RX10 for this purpose from my local friendly racing/tuning out fit - owner said he's tested most of the stuff in a former life as a production engineer for small-scale car manufacturing and it wa '10x as good as Fertan (which I had hitherto used), and proceed to crawl under the car to do the outrigger area after having the tubes cleaned from remnants of powdercoating et al with an assortment of wire brushes, screwdrivers, scrpaers etc. The RX10 stuff is as thin as water and penetrates quite well - with a couple of different-sized and shaped brushes I reckon you can reach most of the tube tops and outrigger corners.

Edited by 900T-R on Tuesday 4th November 14:38

[Zippee]

I used to rub off as much as possible and then liberaly coat in kurust before painting & wax-oiling.

[supadik]

I used to do a lot of waxoiling for customers in my former life as a panel beater/paint sprayer and it is excellent so long as you use it properly. You'll need to remove any loose crap n crud, flaky powder coating (horrid stuff) and make sure everything is dry. Buy a gallon tin (black) of waxoil and heat it up in front of a space heater (or on the Mrs's cooker!?) then spray it on using a compressor and stone chip gun (underseal gun). You want to use the minimum pressure possible or you'll A) cool (and thicken) the waxoil before it's had chance to flow and/or penetrate into any rusty areas and B) end up spending the night on the bog due to waxoil ingestion once it's had chance to cool off, say an hour, re-coat with hot waxoil again. The more coats you give it the better upto a point, if you go too thick it will end up splitting if the weather gets too cold.

[mak]

A mate of mine used old engine oil sprayed on, he swore by it and i have to say the odd time i've been under a car thats had an oil leek for a few years any metal wiped with a rag seems to be like brand new, does it not work to well then

[scotty_d]

problem with old engine oil is that it contains nasty acids that can damage the chassis in a number of ways i would avoid this option.

[GreenV8S]

scotty_d said:

problem with old engine oil is that it contains nasty acids that can damage the chassis in a number of ways i would avoid this option.

Nice clean new oil doesn't have any nasty acids in though.