Fuel pipe ridge.
Discussion
I have one of these, (if I could find it to check) but it has dyes for the larger pipe, if copper then it's easy the other copper pipe is much harder.
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8...
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8...
Pink_Floyd said:
I am replacing the coper fuel pipes from the front to the rear of the car. About 1mm from the end of the old pipes is a ridge. How is that ridge created, been to a couple of garages and they only have brake flaring tools. The pipe is 8mm dia. Any ideas?
Go to a plumbers merchants - get some 8mm olives and solder them onto the pipe a few mm from the end. You'll need a blowlamp or hefty soldering iron. Bob's your Dad's brother

Alternatively cut your pipe to length and find a friendly plumber to solder them on.
Edited by Barkychoc on Monday 3rd November 18:18
Barkychoc said:
Pink_Floyd said:
I am replacing the coper fuel pipes from the front to the rear of the car. About 1mm from the end of the old pipes is a ridge. How is that ridge created, been to a couple of garages and they only have brake flaring tools. The pipe is 8mm dia. Any ideas?
Go to a plumbers merchants - get some 8mm olives and solder them onto the pipe a few mm from the end. You'll need a blowlamp or hefty soldering iron. Bob's your Dad's brother

Alternatively cut your pipe to length and find a friendly plumber to solder them on.
Edited by Barkychoc on Monday 3rd November 18:18
8mm in copper is gas pipe after all,and the 10mm in copper is for oil fired central heating.GreenV8S said:
Are the copper pipes damaged? The rubber hoses need to be replaced periodically, but the hard lines would normally outlast the rest of the car.
The fuel line is very pitted and the rubber pipe for the carbon canister looks like it has seen better days. As the body is off I thought that I would run new copper pipes as everything else is looking new.The car is 10 years old and looking at the rubber fuel pipes in the engine bay, they do need replacing which I was going to do anyway.
Also when cutting the pipe use a rotary pipe cutter - wickes do one - LINK
Clamp the cutter up a little bit at a time before each rotation to avoid forming a lip on the end of the pipe.
Personally I'd avoid using a hacksaw - can you be sure you've got all of those copper filings out of the pipe?
Chris
Clamp the cutter up a little bit at a time before each rotation to avoid forming a lip on the end of the pipe.
Personally I'd avoid using a hacksaw - can you be sure you've got all of those copper filings out of the pipe?
Chris
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