Chim running cool? and wet drivers foot well

[V6Alfisti]

Hey All,

Trying to remedy two little niggles with my Chimaera (1999).

The first is that it appears to run cool (about 70 indicated at idle and 60 indicated whilst driving), but the fans kick in at an indicated 70. Am I correct in assuming that there are a number of temp sensors, one that the engine uses for its own management and another that feeds the temp gauge? I have a feeling that the management side of things is ok, but the gauge on the dash is being fed duff info. Any opinions? (Is replacement an easy DIY job? without a hydraulic lift?)

The second - I still have a wet drivers foot well, I identified a small crack just above the reservoir tank set in the wing, so fixed that with mastic, but it still leaks. There was a comment on the previous service invoice (from the previous owner) that the inner wing grommits were unbonded?, is that just in the wheel arch? are there any other common areas I can investigate?

Thanks

Edited by V6Alfisti on Thursday 20th November 10:56

[mb450]

CHeck the sealant round the brake and clutch reserviours, oil plates etc - mine looked ok put they'd actually lifted slightly and were letting rain water in

[bigdods]

The temp guage is fed by a sensor that isnt particularly accurate. Its on the end of a spur so water flow isnt good and it gets chilled by airflow when moving.

Mine typically reads 60 ish when on the move in winter, rising to 70ish when stopped for a short time. If stopped for a whie (say >1 min at lights) it does eventually creep up to 80+ and read fairly accurately (judged by when the fans cut in and out).

The fans work off the otter switch, totally seperate from the temp sensor used to feed the guage, so no matter what the guage tells you the fans will still come on at the right time.

[ph1l5]

Mine is the same temp 60 - 70 in this weather.

[K4TRV]

..........and the temperature gauge is as inaccurate as avery inaccurate thing!!! (like the fuel gauge!!)

It's very good at giving you an indicative reading as you've said. It rises from a reading and then the fans cut-in. If you've no other indications of cool running (mayonaise in the rocker covers, no heat from heater etc)then take your readings as normal and substitute the correct figure(s).

Trev McM

[spend]

The heater is a good sanity check on engine temp, which should verify if your stat is present and operational.

I'd be interested to know about the 'unbonded'? Do they mean the bonnet stay, or something may be apparent if you remove the clutch res inspection cover?

There is a lot to seal on the inner wing, all the rivets, fixings as well as the brake & clutch reservoir. If you don't get water to run away even the heater hose could be a problem as well as the rivets holding the heat insulation.

I much prefer to run strips of foam to make water run forwards and drain by the rad/wheel arch. You only need to be anal about sealing the brake res and id plate then.

[V6Alfisti]

K4TRV said:

..........and the temperature gauge is as inaccurate as avery inaccurate thing!!! (like the fuel gauge!!)

It's very good at giving you an indicative reading as you've said. It rises from a reading and then the fans cut-in. If you've no other indications of cool running (mayonaise in the rocker covers, no heat from heater etc)then take your readings as normal and substitute the correct figure(s).

Trev McM

No mayo and the heaters work perfectly (nice and hot) , if its just the sake of changing one thermostat thats slightly off - then happy to do so, as test drove some Chim's before buying this one and at least one indicated 90 degrees and even though the car is running at the right temp, I wouldn't mind having a go at changing it - if it was relatively simple and the part isn't ridiculous money. Guess I am just a little picky? hehe

Edited by V6Alfisti on Thursday 20th November 15:44

[V6Alfisti]

mb450 said:

CHeck the sealant round the brake and clutch reserviours, oil plates etc - mine looked ok put they'd actually lifted slightly and were letting rain water in

spend said:

The heater is a good sanity check on engine temp, which should verify if your stat is present and operational.

I'd be interested to know about the 'unbonded'? Do they mean the bonnet stay, or something may be apparent if you remove the clutch res inspection cover?

There is a lot to seal on the inner wing, all the rivets, fixings as well as the brake & clutch reservoir. If you don't get water to run away even the heater hose could be a problem as well as the rivets holding the heat insulation.

I much prefer to run strips of foam to make water run forwards and drain by the rad/wheel arch. You only need to be anal about sealing the brake res and id plate then.

I think the best bet is if I take a quick look at the bits that I can and if I fail, take it to a local garage and ask them to get it on a ramp and see if there is anything glaringly obvious. I did notice that the black cables/pipes with a rubber cap at the end (the ones that feed into the wings) could be lifted, should those be stuck down as well?

Edited by V6Alfisti on Thursday 20th November 12:29

[Robwhite]

The first is that it appears to run cool (about 70 indicated at idle and 60 indicated whilst driving),

Exactly the same as mine. It only varies between summer and winter. Cooling has never been a problem

Rob

[V8 Animal]

V6Alfisti said:

mb450 said:

CHeck the sealant round the brake and clutch reserviours, oil plates etc - mine looked ok put they'd actually lifted slightly and were letting rain water in

spend said:

The heater is a good sanity check on engine temp, which should verify if your stat is present and operational.

I'd be interested to know about the 'unbonded'? Do they mean the bonnet stay, or something may be apparent if you remove the clutch res inspection cover?

There is a lot to seal on the inner wing, all the rivets, fixings as well as the brake & clutch reservoir. If you don't get water to run away even the heater hose could be a problem as well as the rivets holding the heat insulation.

I much prefer to run strips of foam to make water run forwards and drain by the rad/wheel arch. You only need to be anal about sealing the brake res and id plate then.

I think the best bet is if I take a quick look at the bits that I can and if I fail, take it to a local garage and ask them to get it on a ramp and see if there is anything glaringly obvious. I did notice that the black cables/pipes with a rubber cap at the end (the ones that feed into the wings) could be lifted, should those be stuck down as well?

Edited by V6Alfisti on Thursday 20th November 12:29

The 2 grommets should be sealed into the wing and also the hoses going through the grommets.
You could also remove the pedal box bolts one at a time sealant down the hole and re fix.
Use sickaflex stronger than silicone IMO
V8 Animal

[V6Alfisti]

V8 Animal said:

V6Alfisti said:

mb450 said:

CHeck the sealant round the brake and clutch reserviours, oil plates etc - mine looked ok put they'd actually lifted slightly and were letting rain water in

spend said:

The heater is a good sanity check on engine temp, which should verify if your stat is present and operational.

I'd be interested to know about the 'unbonded'? Do they mean the bonnet stay, or something may be apparent if you remove the clutch res inspection cover?

There is a lot to seal on the inner wing, all the rivets, fixings as well as the brake & clutch reservoir. If you don't get water to run away even the heater hose could be a problem as well as the rivets holding the heat insulation.

I much prefer to run strips of foam to make water run forwards and drain by the rad/wheel arch. You only need to be anal about sealing the brake res and id plate then.

I think the best bet is if I take a quick look at the bits that I can and if I fail, take it to a local garage and ask them to get it on a ramp and see if there is anything glaringly obvious. I did notice that the black cables/pipes with a rubber cap at the end (the ones that feed into the wings) could be lifted, should those be stuck down as well?

Edited by V6Alfisti on Thursday 20th November 12:29

The 2 grommets should be sealed into the wing and also the hoses going through the grommets.
You could also remove the pedal box bolts one at a time sealant down the hole and re fix.
Use sickaflex stronger than silicone IMO
V8 Animal

Thanks for the sake of £10 will get some Sikaflex and attack all the suggested areas

[TVRTC]

Hope this helps. I had the same problem with wet carpet in the drivers foot well, sealed all the usual points which reduced the wetness but did not cure it.
On my Chim there is a bolt that goes through the door shut and secures the drivers side lower dash. I found this to be very loose and water was getting in every time it rained.
Removed the offending bolt, cleaned it up (it was red rusty)sealed it back in place and tightened it up.
No more wet carpets and the lower dash is now solid.....Cheers.

[V6Alfisti]

TVRTC said:

Hope this helps. I had the same problem with wet carpet in the drivers foot well, sealed all the usual points which reduced the wetness but did not cure it.
On my Chim there is a bolt that goes through the door shut and secures the drivers side lower dash. I found this to be very loose and water was getting in every time it rained.
Removed the offending bolt, cleaned it up (it was red rusty)sealed it back in place and tightened it up.
No more wet carpets and the lower dash is now solid.....Cheers.

I had a quick peek this morning before I headed out to work, unfortunately for me it wasn't this.

The bolt was there with its black protective cap, no signs of rust and in there quite tight (though did need a slight adjustment), and it appears that it gets wet at the very bottom of the carpet (near to the floor), both under the pedal box and the sides.

I also checked for dampness directly under the pedal box bolts and under the bolt you mention and there is no damp at the top where these bolts are but right at the bottom which seems odd...unless the water runs down the back of the carpet and collects at the bottom?

[Monkey Boy]

Check the door seal, mines leaking where it goes around the corner of the door aperture by my right ankle. It looks like its shrunk over time pulling away on the bend allowing water to get behind it. Haven't changed it yet so not 100%.

[V8 Animal]

Could be the screen.

[V6Alfisti]

V8 Animal said:

Could be the screen.

Do you mean between the seal and the window? (externally?) it all seems reasonably flush.

I applied black Sikaflex 221 all around the reservoir set in the wing (to be absolutely sure), also underneath/around the rubber grommits set in the wing with the cables coming out), I also applied sikaflex where required to the bottom of these cables/ rubber grommit.

I went to apply to the foot pedal bolts, but there was absolutely no dampness at the upper level and therefore decided on the "if it isnt broken, dont fix it" policy.

Also noticed it was slightly damp on the mat behind the back front seat (not sure if the water has been slowly absorbed back?) as it was only mildly damp and doesn't appear to be coming from a higher level? (having touched the carpet running down the inside rear quarter).

Fingers crossed that the Sikaflex will do the job!

Edited by V6Alfisti on Thursday 27th November 18:08

[V8 Animal]

Where i say the screen i mean the gasket could have come away from the body or glass.
As for dampness behind the seats that will be coming from the roof joint.IMO
Have you fabsilled your roof?

[V6Alfisti]

V8 Animal said:

Where i say the screen i mean the gasket could have come away from the body or glass.
As for dampness behind the seats that will be coming from the roof joint.IMO
Have you fabsilled your roof?

It looks to be flush up against the screen, but it can be pulled away with my nail.

It was covered in Renovo cleaner and waterproofer about 2 months ago. The bolt at the top of the main metal roof strut has been covered in the past with some black mastic, so it looks a previous issue has been resolved and there are no signs of dampness running up the inside of the car...all very bizarre!

[V6Alfisti]

Had a bit more time to spend on the car this morning.

It appears the black seal at the bottom of the drivers door has come away for about 10cm from the front of the door, what is the best adhesive for this section? (looking to try and cure it before it goes in for its service in Jan!)

[spend]

Sikaflex pay particular attention to where the seal is 'upside down' where it curves back parallel to the dash. If water gets into the seal here it will run down to the inside - really make sure water is made to run to the outside of the seal. If you stick your head in the door hinge and look up you should see the area that I'm talking about.