oops blown my Diff are they Granada or Sierra???

[supadik]

Hi all.

had a sh*t day yesterday so at 9.45pm I decided I'd go down the pub for a few jars. 1st I thought I'd have a quick drive round the "country" block gave it a boot full in 3rd and bang total loss of drive I can't see out hanging down (prop or D/shafts) so I'm guessing I've bust the diff.

So....are the diffs the standard ford slippy diff as fitted to xr4 sierra's and I think Mk3 Scorpio's or have I been misinformed???????

Cheers in advanced for any help

Rich

[spend]

You've been misinformed

Early = Maserati, later = Holden
if you must attribute comparative models.

Its probably drive shaft anyway, diffs tend to rattle/knock first

[Slacey]

...and if it is the propshaft (which sounds probable) the exhaust generally stops it from dropping out or hanging down as you can see it.

Edited by Slacey on Tuesday 2nd December 15:56

[GreenV8S]

It might be the diff that has gone, although I've only ever managed to wear them out and never broken one yet without *lots* of warning that it's running out of teeth and generally unhappy. What I have done though is snapped half shafts on several occasions, which just gently leaves you with no drive. So I suggest somebody gets it jacked up and has a look to see where the drive is getting lost.

ETA: I can't imagine the prop failing either. If it did the whole thing would thrash around and you'd be in no doubt that you were in for a nasty mauling when it has chewed its way through the tunnel. Similarly for drive splines they would make a heck of a nasty noise when they slip and scare you witless so if you didn't notice I think you can assume that wasn't it. A snapped half shaft is the most likely bet in my view.

Edited by GreenV8S on Tuesday 2nd December 19:58

[dhf]

If it is your diff and want to upgrade to a hydratrack,i have a virtually new one i might part with if it helps

[GreenV8S]

Wouldn't that be downgrade to a hydratrack?

[slideways]

so i take it there not as good as btr or gkn then

[grahamw48]

When your diff goes it sounds like you've run over a pile of metal dustbin lids ...done it, but not in a tiv, fortunately.
They are usually very noisy when worn too.

I'd go with driveshaft.

[Bluebottle]

Dumb question but, You have tried others gears to rule out the g/box? 3rd and 5th are the two most common gears to fail on the T5 box under load.

[rigga]

Id say your clutch has disintegrated.......

[grahamw48]

Could be right.
I was assuming he'd ruled out clutch and gearbox.

[dhf]

GreenV8S said:

Wouldn't that be downgrade to a hydratrack?

well,i bought it as an upgrade,you obviously feel different,please expand on your comment.....

[GreenV8S]

dhf said:

GreenV8S said:

Wouldn't that be downgrade to a hydratrack?

well,i bought it as an upgrade,you obviously feel different,please expand on your comment.....

These diffs transfer torque based on the speed difference between the driven wheels. It's quite progressive and at low speed differentials they behave just like an open diff. So when you're accelerating out of an tight corner, they won't transfer power to the outer wheel until the inner wheel has broken traction and this leaves you uselessly smoking the inside wheel and throwing grip away when you want to be accelerating. These diffs are the Volvos of the diff world - they're limited slip diffs for people who don't really want a limited slip diff. For handling you're better off looking for a torsen or friction plate diff since both of these will transfer torque before you've broken traction.

That's my view, anyway. No doubt there are others who think they're the best thing since sliced bread.

[supadik]

Well......it ended up being the N/S inner CV joint that had undone all of it's bolts!?!?!?!?!?!?!?

So no big drama after all but a bit of a mystery as i don't see how that can happen but it did so there you go! At least it ended up being a "free" repair for a change which is good news.

Thanks to all that gave their input and help.

I take it that the break point of the TVR diffs is pretty low as all drive was lost with one drive shaft disconnected?!?!?

While we're discussing TVR diffs can anyone tell me which diff I have and what fluid it should be filled/topped up with. The car is a 96 40ltr Chim (seems to be a mix of mk1 & mk2 parts) the numbers on the diff casing are 12 HV 004 005 +GF+L 93 the drain bung is on the bottom of the casing and the top-up/level bung is on the drivers side of the casing. The main casing is cast iron and the rear finned cover is cast alloy.

Cheers again

Rich

[AntonyJ]

You have a GKN , its 12HU you can see on the side.

[Pink_Floyd]

supadik said:

I take it that the break point of the TVR diffs is pretty low as all drive was lost with one drive shaft disconnected?!?!?
Rich

I would have thought that the "LSD" would have kicked in so that you would get some drive to the other wheel and thus be able to carry on driving. Is that not what should happen ???

[spend]

Zero loading is a special case (wheel lifting IIRC)

[GreenV8S]

The preload is adjustable but could be quite low, especially if the clutch pack is worn.

[dhf]

GreenV8S said:

dhf said:

GreenV8S said:

Wouldn't that be downgrade to a hydratrack?

well,i bought it as an upgrade,you obviously feel different,please expand on your comment.....

These diffs transfer torque based on the speed difference between the driven wheels. It's quite progressive and at low speed differentials they behave just like an open diff. So when you're accelerating out of an tight corner, they won't transfer power to the outer wheel until the inner wheel has broken traction and this leaves you uselessly smoking the inside wheel and throwing grip away when you want to be accelerating. These diffs are the Volvos of the diff world - they're limited slip diffs for people who don't really want a limited slip diff. For handling you're better off looking for a torsen or friction plate diff since both of these will transfer torque before you've broken traction.

That's my view, anyway. No doubt there are others who think they're the best thing since sliced bread.

why was the Hydratrac an expensive upgrade then ? what are your views on the GKN,BTR and QUAIFE whilst we are on the diff subject ?

[GreenV8S]

dhf said:

why was the Hydratrac an expensive upgrade then ? what are your views on the GKN,BTR and QUAIFE whilst we are on the diff subject ?

If everyone was interested purely in performance and handling there probably wouldn't be cars out there with 18, 19, 20" rims on, they wouldn't have been lowered onto the bump stops, they wouldn't be hauling great big sound systems around and nobody would bother with headlamp conversions and pretty silencers and so on. But people have different priorities and they spend their money as they see fit - and rightly so. There may even be people around who think the viscous diffs give good desirable handling characteristics and are better than friction plate diffs. And that's fine, I'm just telling you what my own opinion is based on my experience. I hate 'em.

Edited by GreenV8S on Thursday 4th December 23:20