Radiator advice
Discussion
Im looking for some advice my radiator needs a little attention although it doesnt leak most of the fins have dropped off into the nose cone, so it needs looking at.
Options are uprade to an aluminium one £500 at a guess (is this OTT?)
or re core uprade which would be £POA (is this needed?)
or standard re core of the old one £230 inc vat
The car sits at a max of 90 degrees in traffic (not that we get traffic were i live
)
what do you think?
Options are uprade to an aluminium one £500 at a guess (is this OTT?)
or re core uprade which would be £POA (is this needed?)
or standard re core of the old one £230 inc vat
The car sits at a max of 90 degrees in traffic (not that we get traffic were i live
)what do you think?
mongo3528 said:
Hi , i would like to go for the recore upgrade too, im in Brighton, anybody know who would be my nearest "recorer" ??
I'd recommended the recore eveytime, it's almost like a new radiator anyway as there's less than 10% of the old one left, they're usually thicker cores which means they're more effective than a standard and non of the high cost associated with Alloy ones.Just look in the yellow pages and find one that looks like it came out of a Dickensian novel and is under some railway arches and they'll do you a good job
mongo3528 said:
Hi , i would like to go for the recore upgrade too, im in Brighton, anybody know who would be my nearest "recorer" ??
Any good to you http://www.thomsonlocal.com/Brighton-Radiators/161...
Rads a rad,well a TVR Chimaera one is anyways.I have had a couple of recored rads over the years from Berkshire Radiators - £130 each time, 24 hour turn around, and they know the difference between a Range Rover rad and a TVR rad. If your engine is functioning correctly then a shiny TVR rad should work perfectly. If it's still getting hot then you've got some other issue which needs addressing, a bigger radiator is just masking the problem.
A big 
for going for a recore. Best £200 I've ever spent on the Griff in 5 years.
Went for a 4 core 1.5 recore and came back looking like a new rad.
Struggle to get the temp above 72/75 on hot days although the addition of a Modwise 2 stage cooling kit may help...
No more looking at the gauge watching it rise on warm days with sweaty palms..
Cabin seems to be cooler too.
The original rads are quite capable for the V8 if in tip top condition..
HTH.
GSW500
(edited for numpty sp)
for going for a recore. Best £200 I've ever spent on the Griff in 5 years.Went for a 4 core 1.5 recore and came back looking like a new rad.
Struggle to get the temp above 72/75 on hot days although the addition of a Modwise 2 stage cooling kit may help...
No more looking at the gauge watching it rise on warm days with sweaty palms..
Cabin seems to be cooler too.
The original rads are quite capable for the V8 if in tip top condition..
HTH.
GSW500
(edited for numpty sp)
Edited by Gsw500 on Saturday 3rd January 11:49
When you do your rad, get new bobbins for the top and the rubber grommets for the bottom.
When I did mine last summer the bottom grommets were missing which I think caused the old rad to fail
due to the extra weight imposed on the top bobbins.
Both are only cheap from the usual suspects.
I went for the exchange unit as the Chims my only car and could not be stood for days while waiting the re core. Cost me 200 exchange from Racing Green.
Good luck.
Paul
When I did mine last summer the bottom grommets were missing which I think caused the old rad to fail
due to the extra weight imposed on the top bobbins.
Both are only cheap from the usual suspects.
I went for the exchange unit as the Chims my only car and could not be stood for days while waiting the re core. Cost me 200 exchange from Racing Green.
Good luck.
Paul
Helpful tip....before taking off the bonnet, mark round the bonnet hinge plates with permanent marker, when you go to put the bonnet back on it makes it all a lot easier to re-align the bonnet, I also hammerited the plates as they were a bit rusty,copper greased the bonnet bolts used new bolts on the fan assembly, also hammerited the alloy fan plates as the alloy was very grubby and wouldnt polish up, pitted so much, so now with the re-core it all looks pretty good.
If you disconnect with the two bolts, then move the alu water pot to the side then you can lift the whole rad and fan assembly out in a oner.
Tell the re-corers about the need for the distance from the fan plate bolt holes to the face off the core remains the same, I didnt and then had to bugger about elongating the holes for the fan assembly to re-fit, was a pain.
Its a simple job really, just take time lifting in and out as the edge of the rad can be sharp and can scratch the inner wing easily, hope this helps....
If you disconnect with the two bolts, then move the alu water pot to the side then you can lift the whole rad and fan assembly out in a oner.
Tell the re-corers about the need for the distance from the fan plate bolt holes to the face off the core remains the same, I didnt and then had to bugger about elongating the holes for the fan assembly to re-fit, was a pain.
Its a simple job really, just take time lifting in and out as the edge of the rad can be sharp and can scratch the inner wing easily, hope this helps....
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