Brake Pads

[ratty]

I know I should know better but hving removed the wheels to replace the front pads it wasn't obvious how the deed could be done Could someone please enlighten me with what tools are required and what the procedure is. Many thanks, MOT tomorrow.... Ratty

[GreenV8S]

You have to take the calipers off the upright. Best way is to take the anti-rattle springs off from the outside (the ends just pull out), and undo the two hex cap head bolts that secure the sliders to the fixed part of the caliper. The cap head bolts have rubber covers on, you will see these sticking out from the back of the calipers. You need to take the covers off and undo the bolts using a big hex drive, 10mm I seem to remember. Its awkward to see what you're doing on the inside of the caliper but not complicated. The moving part of the caliper lifts off the fixed part leaving the pads behind, they just lift out. Make a careful note of how the anti rattle spring looks before you take it off, so you can put it back the same way round. If you need to change the discs too, you have to use the second approach. This is also handy if you don't have a suitable hex drive. You can take the whole caliper assembly off the upright and get the pads out that way. This approach is slightly harder because the pads are trapped between the fixed and sliding parts of the calipers. You will soon see how they come out, by pushing them inwards and down through a slot in the fixed part. It takes a fair amount of brute force and you need to be careful not to damage the brake line while you're doing this. Usual guidelines for changing pads apply: push the pistons back before you take the old pads out, make sure the reservoir doesn't overflow when you do this, clean the calipers, put a smear of coppaslip on the back plates to stop the new ones squealing, make sure you seat the pads by pumping the pedal before you drive off. If the fluid hasn't been replaced recently, bleed the brakes before you put the wheel back on. It's fairly rare to need to do this yourself if the car has been serviced properly, unless you've been on a track day. Has it been serviced properly by a TVR specialist? Cheers, Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)

[ratty]

Many thanks Peter for such a full account. The car has been regularly serviced but I still like to re-live the days when I could wip out the engine of my Midget in under an hour, take the gearbox apart and then get it back together etc etc. All I need is the 10mm hex and I'm away... Thanks again R

[ratty]

Pads in, MOT passed, easy when you know how. BTW it's a 7mm Hex (male) spanner req'd Ta R

[GreenV8S]

That makes sense. My front brakes were originally the same as yours but I've now got a monster pair of 4-pot calipers and much bigger discs mounted to the upright by adapter plates, fitted with 10mm hex drive cap head bolts. For some strange reason I was picturing these as I was writing about yours. Sorry for the duff advice! Glad the slides were indeed cap head bolts, at least I got something right! Cheers, Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)

quote:Pads in, MOT passed, easy when you know how. BTW it's a 7mm Hex (male) spanner req'd Ta R