Radiator removal...

[ATG]

Does the bonnet need to come off to get the radiator out? If so, how easy is it to remove the bonnet?

[shpub]

Ideally yes. Dead easy to remove... swine to put back if you didn't mark where the hinges went before you undid them.

[Incorrigible]

Only need to mark one hinge, leave the other one in place and slide the bonnet out of the rose joint

OTOH I haven't much trouble getting a rad in or out with the bonnet in place. Another person helps, as does masking/duck tape on the inner wings (to avoid scratching)

[ATG]

Thanks gents. That is partially reassuring. Is it fairly obvious how the hinge comes apart (or, indeed, is it covered in The Chim and Griff Bible Mk 1 ... haven't upgraded yet ... cheapskate)?


>> Edited by ATG on Monday 8th December 17:52

[Incorrigible]

ATG said:

Is it fairly obvious how the hinge comes apart

You could have a look

In short, yes

[ATG]

Thanks Inc. I'd have a look, but I'm frightened of the dark.

[Incorrigible]

Where abouts in old Londinium are you squire ?

I'm up at the weekend I'll give you a hand if you like

[ATG]

That is a very kind offer. Unfortunately I'm going to be down in Whitstable this weekend with the g/f and I've ear-marked Monday for a visit to the local radiator bloke down that way. He's happy for customers to dismbowel their cars infront of his workshop, and if all else fails, there is a mechanic in the shed next to him who'll help out with the removal. Radiator bloke doesn't remove or fit radiators; he just fixes them! Odd choice, but suits me.

[shpub]

Incorrigible said:

Only need to mark one hinge, leave the other one in place and slide the bonnet out of the rose joint OTOH I haven't much trouble getting a rad in or out with the bonnet in place. Another person helps, as does masking/duck tape on the inner wings (to avoid scratching)

Doesn't work when the hinges are badly corroded (like they were with the Cerbie runabout. Same hinge design as the Chimaera. I had to take an angle grinder to them!) Now machined some nice ally hinges to replace them. All I need are the replacement rose joints and everything will be OK for the next 100k miles

[Incorrigible]

I grease mine. Am I a bit too anal about my car ?

[Bob the Planner]

Ben, You will get the wrong sort of reputation if you keep greasing the anal area

[NigeW]

My radiator came out and went back in without taking the bonnet off or either hinge ... we were careful, but it really wasn't difficult.

[jonnyb]

Same here, didnt bother taking the bonet off. You have to remove the expansion tank (if you have one) and I left the fans in place untill the radiator was out. Its realy a two person job.

[M@H]

If you undo the two threaded allen key bolts each side that hold the lower part of the hinge mechanism to the nose of the car rather than separating the hinge, assuming you don't spin the hinges around, you will get the bonnet back on the car again with no alignment problems.

Cheers
Matt.

[Incorrigible]

M@H said:

If you undo the two threaded allen key bolts each side that hold the lower part of the hinge mechanism to the nose of the car rather than separating the hinge, assuming you don't spin the hinges around, you will get the bonnet back on the car again with no alignment problems.

Not necessarily mine have elongated holes for the allen bolts so you can adjust the bonnet heght up and down

Are they not all like that

[M@H]

Incorrigible said:

M@H said: If you undo the two threaded allen key bolts each side that hold the lower part of the hinge mechanism to the nose of the car rather than separating the hinge, assuming you don't spin the hinges around, you will get the bonnet back on the car again with no alignment problems. Not necessarily mine have elongated holes for the allen bolts so you can adjust the bonnet heght up and down Are they not all like that

err.... mine are too, but you can set the height very easily by looking at the bonnet gap, and the marks left in the paint from where the hinge plate sat.

>> Edited by M@H on Tuesday 9th December 12:06

[shpub]

NigeW said:

My radiator came out and went back in without taking the bonnet off or either hinge ... we were careful, but it really wasn't difficult.

It is a swings and roundabout situation. If things go wrong like nuts won't come undone or sheer or pipes wont butch and have to be cut, having the bonnet out of the way is a godsend because the access is so much better. It also forces you to chcek out the state of the hinges....

[ATG]

Well, finally got round to sorting this out. Parked outside East Kent Radiators in Whitstable, removed radiator and dumped coolant on their hardstanding. (They lent me a tray to catch the coolant. Tray had a hole in it.) Rad came out quite easily. Expansion tank off so radiator can come forward more easily, and pipe from air filter undone so it can be moved clear to undo the nearside radiator nut. Looks like someone chopped the brackets down a bit width-ways so rad lifted out quite easily. Once the fans were removed the problem was pretty obvious. The fans are mounted on a fibreglass frame that is then bolted onto the radiator. The fibreglass frame's vertical sides have edges that rest up against the fins of the rad to stop air being able to flow around the side of the frame rather than thru the radiator core. The vertical sides have no padding so the fibreglass edge just rubs against the rad's fins, bends them out of the way then starts rubbing on the core's pipes ... and eventually cuts into some of them causing the leak. Radiator bloke closed the holes with solder, and the rad held pressure once again. Reattached the fans with some extra padding over the damaged area and put it back in the car. Two days later, and all seems well. And the charge from East Kent Radiators??

£5

[spend]

Are you sure the cowls are fitted correctly?

Was each fan cowl fixed by 2 bolts at the top and 2 at the bottom? My cowls are fixed quite rigidly and dont chafe on the radiator.

The 'sawn off' brackets is common I believe, BTW there should be some rubber between that bracket and the bodywork.

Dave

[ATG]

Yup, everything was ship shape. Two bolts top and bottom per cowl ... heavily corroded at the bottom ... foam rubber between top of radiator and bodywork, big rubber doofer on stud to separate radiator from bodywork. Problem is the that sides of the cowls are too deep so they push into the fins and any vibration will cause them to wear away whatever they're touching. I wouldn't be at all surprised if the depth of those sides varies from cowl to cowl. Would have been much better if they were shorter and edged in foam.