Normal Operating Temperature?

[Vmax500]

My 500 is now running at about 65-70 degrees in normal operation on the road. Is this normal or is my car 'over-cooling' and not getting up to temp?

It always used to run at about 90 but I couldn't say when it changed. Can it be due to the lower ambient temperatures at this time of year?

What temp is yours running at at the moment?

[MikeyT]

Don't know whether the 500 should run higher than the 400 but mine runs at the same as yours – maybe a bit closer to 70. 90 in traffic is OK I think with the fans cutting in

IMO obviously!

[Bob the Planner]

Looks like you are not the only one !!

www.pistonheads.net/gassing/topic.asp?t=7059&f=8&h=0

I didn't notice mine getting worse but maybe I'm not observant !

Bobble

[RobM]

Same for me vmax !

[HarryW]

Just an observation, if it's not a partially stuck open thermostat. I have a quick question that if the answer is yes may provide a possible off the wall theory to running cooler!
I will start by saying I'm no mechanic, so greater minds than mine could probably add to this theory/angle.
Do you now run optimax?
The thinking behind this is that lean burn cars run very hot and rich burn cars run cooler. Optimax is the highest octane rating available on the forecourt so cars run richer (?) on it and therefore cooler.
Just a thought, anyone pretend to understand this stuff with a greater mechanical background tahn mine who could dismiss this theory or add to it?

Harry

[HarryW]

But then again, for the 400 lump I thought that 70 on the move was normal and 90 in traffic with the fan cutting in and out was also normal, can't speak for the 500 though.

Harry

[MikeyT]

quote:
But then again, for the 400 lump I thought that 70 on the move was normal and 90 in traffic with the fan cutting in and out was also normal, can't speak for the 500 though.

Harry

Harry

You could be describing my 4.0 with those figures!

Mike

[Steve _T]

I'm hot on the trail of the very same issue with my Chim' 500. Have checked out the thermostat (see my previous thread) I reckon that the temp sensor is affected by the airflow generated by the car at speed. This is only a theory so far, but since replacing the lip spoiler, my 500 is running even colder (according to the temp gauge).

It is no big suprise to me that the temp gauge is a liar, given that the fuel gauge is a well known liar. I'm a tad curious why it's not possible to read more accurate temps. The Griff 500 I hired when I got married sat dead on 70 when cruising on A roads and motorways. If anyone has any tips or unearths any info that might explain, I'd be very interested to know.

Cheers,

Steve (and Bright Yellow Chim' 5L)

[shpub]

quote:
I'm hot on the trail of the very same issue with my Chim' 500. Have checked out the thermostat (see my previous thread) I reckon that the temp sensor is affected by the airflow generated by the car at speed. This is only a theory so far, but since replacing the lip spoiler, my 500 is running even colder (according to the temp gauge).

Errrr.... that would be normal if you think about it. More air flow means more cooling so that engine runs cooler and so the temp drops.

When the air flow is stopped or restricted there is less cooling and the temp goes up.

Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk

[Steve _T]

Steve,

Let me rephrase then. Do you think that a temp of around 50 (if it's true) means that the engine is running at a temp that does not suit it, or am I worrying about the nothing?

Cheers,

Steve

[pbrettle]

Not sure about anyone else but I really notice the difference on the outside (ambient?) temperature. Over winter where the temp was around 4 - 6 degrees then it would run at 60 - 65 degrees. However, now that it is arount 10 - 12 degrees outside I am running at around 70... It seems that a jump in outside temp does make a small but decernable difference....

However, there have been loads of people that have indicated incorrectly setup temp gauges (well a couple). Either indicating too low or too high.... if you are concerned then have it checked out, but I would suggest that 60 degrees would be OK - as long as it doesnt get lower than that then it looks like you have an efficient cooling system - enjoy it..

Cheers,

Paul

[squirrelz]

My 4.0 Chim is at 70 on the move, and reaches 90 when in traffic. The odd thing is that since Joolz checked the cooling system over, it takes about twice as long to get up to temperature.

It used to take about 2 miles to get above 50 and now it takes about 4 miles. Probably means he's cleared an airlock, but has anyone got any comparisons?

[pbrettle]

To be honest Squirelz - that is more like it. You wouldnt expect it to get to running temp so quickly. None of my other cars (or previous) have got to temp in anything less than 4-6 miles. The fastest ones have been the Vectra 2.5 and Audi 2.4 - both use sophisticated manifold heat exchangers for water and oil temp. Therefore get up to temp pretty quickly - but then only in about 4 miles.....

Though it does depend on the traffic and roads...

Cheers,

Paul

[currymonster]

following on from a very current thread on the Cerbera forum from a guy who's knackered his engine by thrashing it from cold, can anyone advise what is the best length of time/distance etc. to wait before you can give the Rover V8 a spanking? I religiously wait until my temp gauge is up to 70, but now I think this isnt enough... any comments?

[squirrelz]

Cheers Paul - I thought it was getting warm rather quickly before. More like my Rover did with it's K-series engine and only 7 litres of coolant. That used to be hitting 50 within a mile, and was up to normal operating temperature within 2 miles.

I've got to say, I'm dead impressed with Joolz. Left him my car for a day and he:

* Replaced the clutch master cylinder and bled and topped up the system.

* Checked out the cooling system (new radiator seal I think?) topped up, put in radweld as I was worried it was losing coolant - he couldn't find any leaks though.

* Resealed the bits and bobs in the engine bay and door seals as I was getting water ingress.

* Replaced the passenger side horn, as it was broken.

The whole lot came to less than £120 inc - I dread to think what that little lot would have cost me at a main dealer.

[pbrettle]

Depends on the car (condition of oil / water / coolant system) and the type of trash....Mine takes something like 6 miles before I am happy to trash it. This strangely co-incides with a dual carriageway....

But, the water temp is not a good guide as when moving along it will (should) remain at around 70 anyway. Leave the car running on the drive and the water temp will rise rapidly and not actually affect the oil too much.

If you are feeling brave you can check the oil temp after running the car for a few miles. Stop it, let it cool for a minute or two and check the oil filler cap - check how hot / cold the oil is from there (you will be suprised!). But dont do this lots of times as stopping and starting is just as bad as running from cold!!!! Not really recommended....

As a guide I tend to let mine get to around 70 on the water temp and then let the revs rise to 3000. Then after 4 - 6 miles (depending on traffic) I can then get to around 4000 revs. Only after 10 - 15 minutes / 10 miles do I let it get to anything more than that.... Running from cold I never let it get above 2500 (usually 2000)....

But then again I am utterly paranoid.... The Rover engines are OK and you probably dont need to pussy-foot around too much. Plus a lot cheaper to fix if they are screwed....

Cheers,

Paul

[currymonster]

cheers Paul, I think I will try and be a little bit more sympathetic in future....