Knocking and a clunk CV's?
Discussion
I have this knocking/clicking noise which seems to be on the passenger side rear over last year or so. So over the Christmas I decided to stripe the whole rear driveshalfts and suspension both sides. One to repowder coat the arms and the other to fit the remaining polybushes from the kit I brought in 2008.
Last year during the bodylift I did the rear diff bushe thinking it was that this made no difference so we can rule this out.
I always assumed then it was a CV joint problem but this is where I'm doubting it because they seem to be very good cannot detect any play on either side. The other thing I would like to point out is that the knock/click would only appear when weight was on the wheels i.e. jacking the car up I could never reproduce it. Now the interesting point is that the wheel bearing for the drivers side appears to be shagged a bit grindy and lose turns way easier than pasanger side. So this has got me wondering whether the bearing is causing this and the diff is making it sound like it's a problem on the passenger side. Since I don't know much about limited slip diffs could this be plausable?
Last year during the bodylift I did the rear diff bushe thinking it was that this made no difference so we can rule this out.
I always assumed then it was a CV joint problem but this is where I'm doubting it because they seem to be very good cannot detect any play on either side. The other thing I would like to point out is that the knock/click would only appear when weight was on the wheels i.e. jacking the car up I could never reproduce it. Now the interesting point is that the wheel bearing for the drivers side appears to be shagged a bit grindy and lose turns way easier than pasanger side. So this has got me wondering whether the bearing is causing this and the diff is making it sound like it's a problem on the passenger side. Since I don't know much about limited slip diffs could this be plausable?
Just posting to keep an eye on this thread as I get a clunk, clunk , clunk noise occasionally from the passenger side rear . Its been looked at several times but no obvious fault found and of course it never clunks when being looked at.
I though it was maybe a CV joint , outside chance of a wheel bearing or the diff. But without more to go on I dont want to just start replacing things as its bloody expensive.
When checked on the ground and up on ramps nothing has any play or faults - all bolts, bushes and joints have been checked and its had new dampers and springs which didnt change anything.
I though it was maybe a CV joint , outside chance of a wheel bearing or the diff. But without more to go on I dont want to just start replacing things as its bloody expensive.
When checked on the ground and up on ramps nothing has any play or faults - all bolts, bushes and joints have been checked and its had new dampers and springs which didnt change anything.
Thanks, I was getting worried that no one understood. Since no suggestions yet my approach will to replace both of the rear bearing. Then I'm going to swap the drive shafts over. If the clunk click goes to drivers side then it's definitly a CV. It's just I don't want to do the job twice if I can help it.
Does anyone know how to test the drive shafts I have done the obvious holding and trying to rotate to check for play
Bigdods is your problem intermitant sometimes I get no noises for a few miles then it will start?
Does anyone know how to test the drive shafts I have done the obvious holding and trying to rotate to check for play
Bigdods is your problem intermitant sometimes I get no noises for a few miles then it will start?
penno said:
Bigdods is your problem intermitant sometimes I get no noises for a few miles then it will start?
I mostly get the clunk/knock noise when I am going slowly when coasting up to a red traffic light (for example) and <20mph. As the speed drops I get the knock which gets slower as the car slows down. As I pull away it sometimes starts up again but once I get >20mph it just goes away then often doesnt come back for many miles.It sounds like a UJ binding then releasing but everythng has been checked and greased and nothing seems to account for this odd noise.
Let me know how you get on - I've pretty much convinced myself its the CV joints and if nothing changes I will have them replaced at the next service in September. But if yours turns out to be something else I may have a different target to aim at !
Hi bigdods yours sounds exactly the same at low speed knock/thump as if something is jammed in the disk feel a vibration through the chassis. I know the drivers bearing is knacked thats a start of the process.
Like i say i'm going to swap them over to see if the problem moves or get them check by a specialist anbody of one in the midlands?
Like i say i'm going to swap them over to see if the problem moves or get them check by a specialist anbody of one in the midlands?
I have owned her since 2005 noise started towards the end of 2008 first I tried the diff mount this didn't cure it. I'm just hoping it's not the diff but if others are experiencing similar then I will keep you posted. Mind you it may take sometime to find out she isn't going on the road until march time.
Faulty CV joints do not always show up as play if the ball bearings or tracks are damaged or pitted in side the joint itself then just giving them a push pull or twist will tell you nothing unless they are totally shagged 
a good indication of problems in this area are rattling under closed/light trailing throttle or a heavy thumping under acceleration as in thump thump thump rhythm,this can be very hard to diagnose as soon as you jack the vehicle then you alter the drive-shaft geometry no matter how small and the problem can disappear in fact often the case was that setting the car back on its wheels cured the problem short term until the ball bearings sit back into the old position in the tracks(not always)i learnt fast with this stuff when Granada MK2/3 were in their hey day (common fault) earlier BMW models are also prone to this,i thought i would just post up as a heads up really do not dismiss CV joints because they seem fine when up in the air 
swapping the drive-shafts end to end is always a good idea when trying to diagnose this complaint 
a good indication of problems in this area are rattling under closed/light trailing throttle or a heavy thumping under acceleration as in thump thump thump rhythm,this can be very hard to diagnose as soon as you jack the vehicle then you alter the drive-shaft geometry no matter how small and the problem can disappear in fact often the case was that setting the car back on its wheels cured the problem short term until the ball bearings sit back into the old position in the tracks(not always)i learnt fast with this stuff when Granada MK2/3 were in their hey day (common fault) earlier BMW models are also prone to this,i thought i would just post up as a heads up really do not dismiss CV joints because they seem fine when up in the air swapping the drive-shafts end to end is always a good idea when trying to diagnose this complaint Edited by Simon says on Wednesday 19th May 17:28
Funny you should say that when the CVs are a Granada item...
Most clunks and clicks are hard to replicate on inspection.
Replacing my visibly tired diff and suspension bushes made a huge difference to the way my TVR drove, I then slowly worked through CVs and wheel bearings mostly due to age and mileage rather than occasional noises. There was no way to check the CV other than taking it apart and looking for wear that could cause noise at low speed or high load as other posters have mentioned.
Dave Mac Propshafts in Coventry know what they are doing.
Most clunks and clicks are hard to replicate on inspection.
Replacing my visibly tired diff and suspension bushes made a huge difference to the way my TVR drove, I then slowly worked through CVs and wheel bearings mostly due to age and mileage rather than occasional noises. There was no way to check the CV other than taking it apart and looking for wear that could cause noise at low speed or high load as other posters have mentioned.
Dave Mac Propshafts in Coventry know what they are doing.
Hi Guy's,
Been meaning to respond to everyone on this one after replacing all diff bushes,CV's, pads, disks and bushes the clunk/knock was still there. So I figured out it was the diff I was then contemplating on stripping this winter. However I took the car to have the Geo set up by Mike at sports cars services Halesowen. Any how he thought it sounded like the limited slip cones were binding and suggested an oil change and an addative to help them slip hey presto knocking pretty much erradicated.
The diff oil had been changed previsously for its 12000 mile service at a different indy I'm guessing it wasnt the correct spec hence causing the problems.
LSD addative seems to be a common thing reading the forums it seem Jag's Fords and Jeeps need it for the LSD to run smooth upshot is its saved me loads of hassle.
I did originally think I had solved it with the CV's as one of the bearing races had cracked so it wasn't a complete waste time or money. It's just that a simple oil change and addative was the final cure hope this helps others out.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ada.aspx
This is a picture of the cv bearing cracks which I thought were causing the problems
Been meaning to respond to everyone on this one after replacing all diff bushes,CV's, pads, disks and bushes the clunk/knock was still there. So I figured out it was the diff I was then contemplating on stripping this winter. However I took the car to have the Geo set up by Mike at sports cars services Halesowen. Any how he thought it sounded like the limited slip cones were binding and suggested an oil change and an addative to help them slip hey presto knocking pretty much erradicated.
The diff oil had been changed previsously for its 12000 mile service at a different indy I'm guessing it wasnt the correct spec hence causing the problems.
LSD addative seems to be a common thing reading the forums it seem Jag's Fords and Jeeps need it for the LSD to run smooth upshot is its saved me loads of hassle.
I did originally think I had solved it with the CV's as one of the bearing races had cracked so it wasn't a complete waste time or money. It's just that a simple oil change and addative was the final cure hope this helps others out.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ada.aspx
This is a picture of the cv bearing cracks which I thought were causing the problems
My noise is the lsd plates not slipping its fine at normal road speeds. If you push the car into the garage with the front wheels not straight i get the knocking noise as the diff struggles to slip. Straighten up the wheels and the clunks stops. The additive worked for a bit but its come back however its not affecting normal running. Will at some point either refurb or replace but its not big a deal as i know its not going to fall off as i first thought.
penno said:
My noise is the lsd plates not slipping its fine at normal road speeds. If you push the car into the garage with the front wheels not straight i get the knocking noise as the diff struggles to slip. Straighten up the wheels and the clunks stops. The additive worked for a bit but its come back however its not affecting normal running. Will at some point either refurb or replace but its not big a deal as i know its not going to fall off as i first thought.
aha sounds a bit like mine, I only get this clunking at low speeds although I have noticed it when coasting down to traffic lights in a straight line. So maybe not the same but probably worth getting the diff refurbed now anyway as its always been a bit grumbly. ETA: I'm determined to throw money at this until it goes away
Edited by Dodsy on Wednesday 8th February 22:32
Update - Turned out to be a suspension problem. The springs had 'sagged' apparently and 3 out of 4 dampers had also failed (no rebound). I knew the handling had been getting worse lately, but after a 2 month lay up getting the chassis sorted I drove it back home and it was damn scary.
Gaz Golds were 4 years old so overdue a service. So 4 new springs, all dampers serviced and shes handling properly again and the knocking has gone.
Gaz Golds were 4 years old so overdue a service. So 4 new springs, all dampers serviced and shes handling properly again and the knocking has gone.
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