Push Button start Advice please
Discussion
greenv8s said:
Electrically yes, but that seems to neatly disable all the standard security measures and also allow you to start the engine (or at least crank it over) with the steering lock on, while the engine is already running, etc.
Not if you connect the new switch in parallel with the original cranking part of the ignition switch. You will end up with the choice of either to crank and start car. Probably best to use a relay if new switch not up to doing the whole job reliably.
Ivan
ribol said:
Not if you connect the new switch in parallel with the original cranking part of the ignition switch. You will end up with the choice of either to crank and start car. Probably best to use a relay if new switch not up to doing the whole job reliably.
Ivan
Are you sure? The starter circuit is permanently live so there would be nothing to stop you cranking it over at any time. I guess you could power it off the switched ignition circuit (via a relay, because the ignition switch isn't exactly over specified) and that would work kind of OK.
That's what i was thinking. I suppose i should have been a bit clearer initially, in the fact that i would still need to put the keys in ignition, but instead of turning the key to the spring loaded 3rd position, just run the switchgear from Pos 3 to the start button.
Now, where to put it?...
Now, where to put it?...
GreenV8S said:
ribol said:
Not if you connect the new switch in parallel with the original cranking part of the ignition switch. You will end up with the choice of either to crank and start car. Probably best to use a relay if new switch not up to doing the whole job reliably.
Ivan
Are you sure? The starter circuit is permanently live so there would be nothing to stop you cranking it over at any time. I guess you could power it off the switched ignition circuit (via a relay, because the ignition switch isn't exactly over specified) and that would work kind of OK.
Yes. The starter is permanently live but the starter solenoid mounted on it is only switched live - when you turn the ignition key to the spring loaded position. Connecting the new switch in parallel with the original will not affect the alarm/immobiliser in any way if done correctly (near the ignition switch). Having the new switch illuminated when “active” could also be easily done, having it go out when the engine has started would take a bit more work.
Ivan
Don't think it is as simple as that - the no-charge warning light is driven from both sides (switched ignition on one side and alternator output on the other) and is part of the circuit used to kick the alternator into life. I suspect you'd need to find an engine-running signal from elsewhere, but the only one I know of will be the one driving the fuel pump, but you need to differentiate between cranking and running.
david beer said:
to get the LED to go out,connect it to the ignition light, that goes out when the engine is started. It also means the button is inop when the engine is running.
Cannot see a problem with connecting an led to ignition light, not too sure how it would render it inop though.
There is also the oil light switch route to consider.
Ivan
ribol said:
Cannot see a problem with connecting an led to ignition light, not too sure how it would render it inop though.
There is also the oil light switch route to consider.
Ivan
How are you thinking of wiring it in? Remember the no-charger warning light is driven from both sides, and is carefully specified to draw the right amount of current to bootstrap the alternator.
david beer said:
It works a treat, the PD between IGN and alternator output, allows the relay to work. Coil to the relay gets 12v + from ignition and the NEG through the alternator, its only around 100 ma. You can even press and hold, it will just drop the relay as it starts up.
I thought the alternator had no output until 2000rpm - ie ignition light stays on until engine revved.
plotloss said:
www.richbrook.co.uk
Nice link to plenty goodies! Thanks
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