ManifoldGasket..tick,tick,tick....................

[poorpeet]

I've been living with this for a while but it's starting to get on my nerves.
I assume the leak is from the exhaust manifold to head joint?
Any one here had a go at replacing theirs?
Whats the best way to tackle the job, any tips?

[HeyAndy]

Had this problem last year on my Wedge. The only thing you can do is to get it repaired which will mean some welding. Provided it can be done in situ it shouldn't be a major problem otherwise you are looking at getting the manifold off which depending on where you go may cost a bit in terms of labour.

The longer you leave it, the worse it will could become a crack beyond repair - meaning new a manifold.

[poorpeet]

I understood it was just the gasket that blew. Is it the actual manifold that lets go then?

[Jarcy]

To me it sounds like a gasket problem. It's common.
Removing the manifold is tricky as half the the bolts are inaccessable. Best get someone else to do it - shouldn't be too expensive.

[paul garabette]

I did mine. I replaced the gaskets both sides. It's a horrible job requiring arms that bend in all directions and much skinning of knuckles. I ended up cutting spanners in half, etc. to access the trickier bolts and get sufficient purchase to keep them turning (about 1/8 of a turn at a time)whilst lying on my cold garage floor.

I found the two bottom rear bolts on the drivers side the hardest, so if you do attempt the job i'd recommend you undo these first. If you can't get them undone I'd give up and get an expert to do it who has the experience and no skin on their knuckles already.

Also, if you do replace the gaskets I suggest that you use new bolts and copper grease to help avoid problems if it has to be done again in the future.

Just an opinion from a amateur who enjoys "fun with spanners" you understand.....always easier to get an expert to do it mind....

[Richard Deakin]

Poorpeet

I had this recently too. If you leave it too long then the escaping gasses can score lines in the manifold or port faces.

The gaskets are from Land Rover and each gasket covers two exhaust ports. If its the front gasket, you can undo the manifold at the Y Piece, undo the 4 bolts and pull it back just enough to get the old gasket out and replace with a new one. You should put a ring of silicon sealant around the gasket (make sure you use sealant suitable for an o2 sensor).

Having said that, I removed the whole thing, got the faces skimmed as they were corroded and replaced with 2 new gaskets. Problem is that the bolts are difficult to get to (top are fine, but bottom are slow, delicate jobs).

I wouldn't do it again! There are many things that can go wrong, and if you sheer a bolt by accident you've got an expensive repair. I was quoted £ 125 + VAT from a TVR main dealer and in hindsight this was a good price compared to the amount of blood (from catching my arm on the engine when undoing the bottom nuts), sweat (it was very hot) and tears (when I sheered the bolt in the Y piece connector by giving it one turn too many).

I have detailed instructions I've been writing up if you want them.

Cheers
Richard

Edited to add - just seen Pauls post above - he's right, its a horrible job!

>> Edited by Richard Deakin on Thursday 18th March 18:38

[trefor]

This is a classic Chimaera/Griffith problem. Most likely just the gaskets. I think someone quoted me 2hrs per side once - so at an indie dealer say 160 quid + VAT??

You could try tightening the bolts up - they may be loose. I had this ticking sound a few years ago and tightening up all the bolts I could reach with the selection of spanners I have. No problems since.

[edward1]

Had this problem on a wedge and the same on the Chim, I had new gaskets fitted by RT racing who use a thicker than normal gasket. Was fine for a few thousand miles and is now back to doiig the same. I also noticed that all through the cars history the service reciepts include tightening the bolts to try and stop it. Didn't know there was any potential for long term damage though.

[tonyrec]

You are better off getting someone else to do it unless you have all the tools and can get the car up into the air.
Well worth the money because you can run into big problems if the bolts start to snap.

[lateconvert]

Yes, two of my bolts snapped (mechanic said they'd been poorly assembled damp). Engine out for re-threading.

[Boosted LS1]

I've found on my past RV8's that studs and nuts make life much easier then bolts and will save the threads in the heads stripping, assuming you can remove the manifolds. Then find some good spring washers as well.

[poorpeet]

Ok. "If" I decide to have a go myself then changing from bolts to studs seems like a sensible idea. Would any of you know the torque setting for the stud nuts?

[paul garabette]

I don't think that there is enough clearance between the engine and the bodywork to be able to manouver the manifold over the studs to locate it, if you went down that route. Just a thought, but if it's been done before I guess it's possible. I'd stick to (new original equipment) bolts. I don't know the torque, but again you'd be lucky to get access with a torque wrench anyway. I'd say under tighten rather than over tighten. I tightenned mine until there was some resistance and the sprung washers were almost flat. I plan to keep checking them regularly!!

[crimsonchim]

paul garabette said:

I don't think that there is enough clearance between the engine and the bodywork to be able to manouver the manifold over the studs to locate it, if you went down that route. Just a thought, but if it's been done before I guess it's possible. I'd stick to (new original equipment) bolts. I don't know the torque, but again you'd be lucky to get access with a torque wrench anyway. I'd say under tighten rather than over tighten. I tightenned mine until there was some resistance and the sprung washers were almost flat. I plan to keep checking them regularly!!

When I did mine (bolts, not studs) I called David Geralds and asked them. I think it was 20lb, but since then I've looked it up in a range rover workshop manual (different manifold, but screws into the same thing and that's the weak link)and I'm sure that says 20 too. I can check later if anybody wants to be sure, but you're absolutely right that theres only a few you can get a torque wrench on!

You could possibly get the manifold over studs if you removed it from the Y piece completely. Maybe!
There's certainly less chance of stripping the thread in the head with a stud, so its better in that respect.


Andy

>> Edited by crimsonchim on Tuesday 23 March 13:37

[TheHobbit]

My Chim is currently with Peninsula due to a ticking sound. When I described it over the phone it was suggested that it might be an exhaust manifold gasket, but when they listened to it when I took it down there on saturday morning, they said that whilst the manifold was leaking, and would need to be done, that there was something else tapping/ticking as well.... I forget the exact word used, but for want of the correct word, a shim that sits between the valve stem and the rocker, or was it the pushrod and the rocker?? (?? if I understood correctly ??) can break/disintegrate?? and they wanted to investigate.

Now, don't quote me, as whilst my general understanding of engines is good, my specific understanding of the internal workings of these engines is mininal, but I thought I'd share it with you as a bit of a "FYI".

[TheHobbit]

update!

spoke to peninsula yesterday, and on investigating the ticking, have fitted new exhaust manifold gaskets, and a new cam and are waiting for a couple of parts before they can finish reassembly...... should have it back mid-week....