Gearbox Removal
Discussion
During my Chims 4Ltr winter lay up I was considering replacing the clutch (Slight judder when hot) However I only have trolley jacks and axle stands to raise the vehicle. Therefore my questions are; much clearance under the car do I need to safely remove the gearbox? What's the approximate weight of the gearbox? Thanks for any info or advice on gearbox removal or securing vehicle to gain maximum height. John042
Did mine last year (1999 450 with T5 box)
Did the work over a pit gear linkage into box is a pig to get at.
Box quite heavy considering the size of the unit.
Lifted it out by myself once and it was heavy.
Do not make the same mistake I did of buying a cheap Ebay clutch!!!!!!!!
Fitted the unit only to find a massive ammount of vibration so had to fit a proper A&P unit.
Also worth fitting for little money at the same time:
Rear crank seal
UJ's on prop
Gearbox mounts
Cheers
Did the work over a pit gear linkage into box is a pig to get at.
Box quite heavy considering the size of the unit.
Lifted it out by myself once and it was heavy.
Do not make the same mistake I did of buying a cheap Ebay clutch!!!!!!!!
Fitted the unit only to find a massive ammount of vibration so had to fit a proper A&P unit.
Also worth fitting for little money at the same time:
Rear crank seal
UJ's on prop
Gearbox mounts
Cheers
Thanks minkybob, I did have UJ's, mountings on my list, the clutch its self I take note, as I was aware that fitting other than original could be a problem. Yes the gearbox does look deceivingly small but obviously heavy hence my query on how much room you need if the car is on axle stands? How did you attack the linkage? From inside by removing the centre console? Cheers John042
We carried all the work out from under the car other than holding the gera stick shaft in the car with mole grips and rag.
The problem is the lack of room on the input shaft to the gear box there is very little room to remove the small M8 bolt which also has a black poly sleeve and two poly washers each side (race teck sell them).
I suggest that when you have the bolt out you cut it back so you have just enough for the nyloc to work.
We welded 400mm ish to the handles of a steel set of long nose pliers and used them to hold the bolt.
Hope this helps anyprobs when you get into it please feel free to message direct.
P.S Also your set up may be different as mine had an extra hollow section bracer not shown in the bible which caused all the access problems.
Cheers
The problem is the lack of room on the input shaft to the gear box there is very little room to remove the small M8 bolt which also has a black poly sleeve and two poly washers each side (race teck sell them).
I suggest that when you have the bolt out you cut it back so you have just enough for the nyloc to work.
We welded 400mm ish to the handles of a steel set of long nose pliers and used them to hold the bolt.
Hope this helps anyprobs when you get into it please feel free to message direct.
P.S Also your set up may be different as mine had an extra hollow section bracer not shown in the bible which caused all the access problems.
Cheers
Defiantly remove the centre console and gear stick / hand brake access panel !!!
I found it was impossible to undo the remote gear linkage and get the plastic bushes out from underneath due to limited access. (it was hard enough from above!
)
I removed the linkage then the gearbox mounts so the back end of the box could drop slightly, this gave better access to the top bellhousing bolts.
I’d guess the T5 box weighs about 25 - 30kg (without fluid or bellhousing), it is possible to lift it / man handle it in and out on your own if your feeling strong.
Although it’s easier with a trolley jack and second person.
I used four axle stands extended to 50cm, under the main chassis rails at the front and under rear corners of the out riggers at the rear (plus ramps under the wheels at the front for added security / stability).
I found it was impossible to undo the remote gear linkage and get the plastic bushes out from underneath due to limited access. (it was hard enough from above!
)I removed the linkage then the gearbox mounts so the back end of the box could drop slightly, this gave better access to the top bellhousing bolts.
I’d guess the T5 box weighs about 25 - 30kg (without fluid or bellhousing), it is possible to lift it / man handle it in and out on your own if your feeling strong.
Although it’s easier with a trolley jack and second person.
I used four axle stands extended to 50cm, under the main chassis rails at the front and under rear corners of the out riggers at the rear (plus ramps under the wheels at the front for added security / stability).
Sorry to hijack, but a couple of question the answers may also help the OP get it back together.
I am asking about the anti rattle parts used in the linkage.
There are anti rattle bushes, and large and small anti rattle washers. As the bloke who did my clutch before I got it never put the anti rattle parts back after doing a gear change, does anyone know if the small washers go in the front or rear linkage.
Also, in case he left off any other brackets etc, does anyone have a from underneath picture that would show the gearbox area?
Thanks
Dave
I am asking about the anti rattle parts used in the linkage.
There are anti rattle bushes, and large and small anti rattle washers. As the bloke who did my clutch before I got it never put the anti rattle parts back after doing a gear change, does anyone know if the small washers go in the front or rear linkage.
Also, in case he left off any other brackets etc, does anyone have a from underneath picture that would show the gearbox area?
Thanks
Dave
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