newbies niggles
Discussion
picked up my 4.3 y/day.can any1 help with the following
heater blows warm(luke) one minute then stone cold the next?
it runs very lumpy at low speeds(worse first thing in the morning).is this just me needin to learn how to drive??
what oil pressure should it be running??
otherwise the car is superb! i certainly think the boxster owner on the m1 will know not to harass a chim again. why cant i stop grinning!!!
cheers in advance
>>> Edited by wacjac on Sunday 28th March 10:44
heater blows warm(luke) one minute then stone cold the next?
it runs very lumpy at low speeds(worse first thing in the morning).is this just me needin to learn how to drive??
what oil pressure should it be running??
otherwise the car is superb! i certainly think the boxster owner on the m1 will know not to harass a chim again. why cant i stop grinning!!!
cheers in advance
>>> Edited by wacjac on Sunday 28th March 10:44
Don't mean to be silly, but oil pressure will depend upon the oil it's got in it. The "normal" is Mobil 1, which sits at about 45 @ idle cold, 30 @ idle warm (~70), and 15 @ idle hot (~90). The pressure will rise once revs lift off idle, and somewhere in the 30-45 range is normal when driving a warm car (unless mine's broken...). Not sure what TMS had put in it at the service immediately before I bought mine (Castrol something?), but pressure was higher then.
No idea on the warmcold air thing. As for starting up, the general advice seems to be to wait until the oil pressure stops rising, which is under a minute, and then drive off at low revs. Keep it under 2500 until the oils up to temperature (check the pressure when you're stopped @ lights, etc). Personally, I try to keep it 1500-2000. Keeps wear to a minimum whilst not stressing the engine too much by demanding huge torque at low revs. Mine's not as free-revving until the oil warms up, though. This paragraph could all be lies, but they're widely-spread lies at least :-)
No idea on the warmcold air thing. As for starting up, the general advice seems to be to wait until the oil pressure stops rising, which is under a minute, and then drive off at low revs. Keep it under 2500 until the oils up to temperature (check the pressure when you're stopped @ lights, etc). Personally, I try to keep it 1500-2000. Keeps wear to a minimum whilst not stressing the engine too much by demanding huge torque at low revs. Mine's not as free-revving until the oil warms up, though. This paragraph could all be lies, but they're widely-spread lies at least :-)
wacjac said:
heater blows warm(luke) one minute then stone cold the next?
Air in the water system?
wacjac said:
it runs very lumpy at low speeds(worse first thing in the morning).is this just me needin to learn how to drive??
Could be - but get the HT leads, sparks and the stepper motor checked / cleaned. Normally should be fine and it shouldnt matter. Worth getting it looked at.
wacjac said:
what oil pressure should it be running??
Its not calibrated and hence dont take any figures as gospel. It should rise at cold and drop slightly when warm. Any significant change in pressure stop the engine and check it out. Other than that, I know some Chimaeras which run at 30 and are perfect - mine runs at 50 - but it is simply the dial.... The engines NOT a dry sump and therefore checking the oil is simple. Check regularily and top-up when necessary, other than that rarely gives any problems.
pbrettle said:
heater blows warm(luke) one minute then stone cold the next?
Air in the water system?
Thats exactly what mine did when I first picked it up. Air lock in the water system, eventually turned out to be caused by a small leak in the radiator. Some people advise against using Radweld but it fixed mine.
This is the thread I posted asking for help.
Hi Joe, just got back from Frankfurt. Glad to hear you are enjoying your new car. My girlfriend saw a 'stranger' driving my car near Enfield on Saturday afternoon and was 
knowing it had been sold. I will call you tomorrow night as promised, if you haven't ordered the bible yet, hold off.
Cheers, Stuart
knowing it had been sold. I will call you tomorrow night as promised, if you haven't ordered the bible yet, hold off. Cheers, Stuart
Hi Stu (ohidunno)! - usual commission on this one? 
Only kidding of course.
Joe, run the car up to temp stationary with the blue cap off and see if the level varies up and down. Try to add some coolant and let it settle. Don't worry if you get some discharged after fitting cap back and using it. The actual level varies a slight bit and it should find it's own.
Lumpy running? Depends how bad this is but they all do it to a certain degree - especially 4.3. Might be worth a 'tune' at a specialist to check injectors, stepper motor and timing.
Good luck!
Only kidding of course.
Joe, run the car up to temp stationary with the blue cap off and see if the level varies up and down. Try to add some coolant and let it settle. Don't worry if you get some discharged after fitting cap back and using it. The actual level varies a slight bit and it should find it's own.
Lumpy running? Depends how bad this is but they all do it to a certain degree - especially 4.3. Might be worth a 'tune' at a specialist to check injectors, stepper motor and timing.
Good luck!
call me stupid but as i have no bible yet im a touch confused as to the header tank and the swirl tank? the aluminium tank which looks like a thermos flask is the only thing i can find.it has a blue threaded cap.this only had an inch or so of water in it when cold.the owners manual told me this should be no lower than a couplke of inches from the top.so naturally (or stupidly) i filled as such.wheres this thingy with the brass grub screw??
The swirl pot looks like this,
and the expansion tank looks like this,
So to check and top up water
When cold, remove the brass screw from the swirl pot and the blue top from the expansion tank.
Fill up the swirl pot to the top and put the brass screw back in and tighten up.
Half fill the expansion tank and replace and tighten blue cap.
Hope this helps.
and the expansion tank looks like this,
So to check and top up water
When cold, remove the brass screw from the swirl pot and the blue top from the expansion tank.
Fill up the swirl pot to the top and put the brass screw back in and tighten up.
Half fill the expansion tank and replace and tighten blue cap.
Hope this helps.
[quote]
Joe, run the car up to temp stationary with the blue cap off and see if the level varies up and down. Try to add some coolant and let it settle. Don't worry if you get some discharged after fitting cap back and using it. The actual level varies a slight bit and it should find it's own.
[/quote]
Don't forget to turn the dash heater control fully on before doing this- and bleed any air out of the nut on top of the radiator
Joe, run the car up to temp stationary with the blue cap off and see if the level varies up and down. Try to add some coolant and let it settle. Don't worry if you get some discharged after fitting cap back and using it. The actual level varies a slight bit and it should find it's own.
[/quote]
Don't forget to turn the dash heater control fully on before doing this- and bleed any air out of the nut on top of the radiator
Sorry guy's I'll know next time. 
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