changing engine mounts - how to?

[darkcat]

right im going to tackle some of the bigger jobs that need doing this weekend, wheel bearing, and engine mounts. the bearing shouldnt be a problem. the mounts are properly shagged.

Whats the best method for changing the engine mounts without having a pit/lift?

[Barreti]

Put a big fat plank under the sump to spread the load and gently take the strain off your engine mounts with a trolley jack.

Make sure you have all the kit ready to do the job because you don't want to have the weight on the sump too long, but it should be OK.
This is how I did mine after asking the same question a few years back.

Its VERY tight to get a spanner to some of the bolts into the block from what I recall, so you need a bit of patience but its easy other than that.

Oh, put the load back on to the mounts before you fully tighten them up obviously and if you have spacers in there watch how they come out so you put them back the same.

[darkcat]

Thanks for that
So its going to be best to have the front fully up on axle stands i guess?

is it best to remove the complete mounts + brackets or just the mounts?

[Barreti]

Yep, front end up on axle stands because you will need to sit under the wheel arch to get your hands in.

I think its possible to get the mounts out without the brackets but its fiddly. I took both off and repainted the brackets while I had the chance.

Looking at a photo here of the nearside mount I remember it being such a fight to even get a spanner onto the bolt holding the mount to the bracket that I took the whole lot off instead.

See what I mean?

Edited by Barreti on Friday 15th October 13:20

[spend]

I also think it's easier to do by removing the engine brackets..

..but a word of caution its very easy to bend the sumps and end up with infernal eternal oil leaks.. I would not use the sump + plank ever, stick a block of wood to support under the sump flange at the timing cover that'll hold it as it is supported at the rear by the gearbox mounts.

[Barreti]

Wise words as usual Dave and if you don't have to worry about the sump you can take your time and paint the brackets too


Just for clarification and future reference - and I hope Quinny doesn't mind me taking the liberty of recycling a couple of his pictures - where would you put the block? Not at the belhousing/sump end in the first picture but at the other end?

Cheers mate, and I hope you are well - its been a while.




[/IMG]

[darkcat]

Thanks for the tips guys - most useful :-)

Just spent my lunch hour pokeing about under her while she was on the car lift, had the tracking done, was 4 deg toe out !!!!!!!!!! I thought it felt rather "funky" since my little spin, including lethal bump-steer..... set it up with 1/2 degree toe in each side (1 deg total) which i beleive is correct??

Cant moan - laser tracking, and a good poke about - £25

Edited by darkcat on Friday 15th October 14:50

[darkcat]

I do have an engine crane/hoist yes, i was thinking the same thing.....

[Lolo256]

Hi,
I cant visualise these pictures, does somebody now how i can see these? I need to do the engine mounts tommorow and want to be perfectly sure where to put exactly the wood plank to jack the engine.

I first understood that i needed to put it directly on the front pulley (crankshaft) like said on many posts. But i was to afraid to broke the crankshaft putting all the engine weight on it, and maybe more if the mount dont want to release easily (i can see on other forum car that It could cause some big troubles on some cars...). after further readings on this forum i can see some talking about front pulley COVER or On the sump flange at the timing cover.

Please help me determine where to fit it without damaging anything.

Barreti said:

Wise words as usual Dave and if you don't have to worry about the sump you can take your time and paint the brackets too


Just for clarification and future reference - and I hope Quinny doesn't mind me taking the liberty of recycling a couple of his pictures - where would you put the block? Not at the belhousing/sump end in the first picture but at the other end?

Cheers mate, and I hope you are well - its been a while.




[/IMG]

Edited by Lolo256 on Friday 10th January 22:33

Edited by Lolo256 on Friday 10th January 23:18

Edited by Lolo256 on Saturday 11th January 00:44

Edited by Lolo256 on Saturday 11th January 00:54

[Paulprior]

I just did mine, I was planning to remove the mount with the bracket but I just couldn’t find a way to access the 3rd bolt that fixes the bracket to the engine so I just took the mounts out, I used a ratchet ring spanner with a flexible head to get the angle right, it looks difficult to get get to the nuts at the back of engine mount studs but it’s not so bad when you actually get started, I found that the studs on the passenger side were much longer than they needed to be so I cut them down, this makes installation much easier, I left the drivers side alone as I had a spacer on that side

[sparkythecat]

Where have you lads bought your new mounts from?

[Lolo256]

I bought mine from racetech direct. They said to be uprated...

sparkythecat said:

Where have you lads bought your new mounts from?

[Lolo256]

Thanks for your experience. May i ask you where do you choosed to jack the engine? Directly on the crank pulley?

Paulprior said:

I just did mine, I was planning to remove the mount with the bracket but I just couldn’t find a way to access the 3rd bolt that fixes the bracket to the engine so I just took the mounts out, I used a ratchet ring spanner with a flexible head to get the angle right, it looks difficult to get get to the nuts at the back of engine mount studs but it’s not so bad when you actually get started, I found that the studs on the passenger side were much longer than they needed to be so I cut them down, this makes installation much easier, I left the drivers side alone as I had a spacer on that side

[Paulprior]

As I was about to resell my sump I followed the advice of putting a lump of wood under the sump and spreading the load and jacked on that, before doing this i loosened off all the nuts and bolts and removed what I could before lifting, the time to then swap the mounts was quite quick

[Dougal9887]

The third bolt can be easily accessed through the wheel arch using a socket on a long extension, 3/8" drive is best.
Not so sure about the Racetech uprated mounts, the rubber separated from the metal on one of mine after a couple of years.
Dougal.

[Dougal9887]

'Uprated' engine mount.

Dougal

[bobfather]

Dougal9887 said:

The third bolt can be easily accessed through the wheel arch using a socket on a long extension, 3/8" drive is best.
Not so sure about the Racetech uprated mounts, the rubber separated from the metal on one of mine after a couple of years.
Dougal.

I've had no experience on the upgraded mounts. In principle they look as though they will effectively reduce the flex with obvious benefits but I chose not to fit them because I feared that the fold-around metal would intensify and hold in the heat on the rubbers. Early failures of these mounts may be a result of that. Nothing proved but I decided to stick with what works. Be sure to buy mounts from a reputable source, I fear some of the cheap eBay mounts may be cheap for a reason

[Zener]

Dougal9887 said:

'Uprated' engine mount.

Dougal

Generic cheap crap about £45 a pair and they are rubbish a guy supplied some of them to be fitted by me years back and they didnt last months and he's a plodder , cant comment on the revised poly mounts nowadays (those above are not) but the early ones were rubbish I suffered 2 failures on 2 vehicles needless to say I use restraints with brand new old stock Leyland/Austin Rover OE mountings never looked back these are what TVR fitted and why they last so well , just a heads up sure the current poly mounts are fine however SC Power etc , but I do endorse the restraints whatever you use

[Lolo256]

With all your tips everything was on the way to be ready in less than 2 hours, until one of the passenger side "mount to bracket" nut refuse to move and stay tighened (all the other nuts are free).

I tryed to remove the whole bracket, but this side it s a real pain, i cant get a good acces to any of the 3 bolts that maintain it (as opposite to the other side).

Tommorow, I ll try with a torch without burning everything and then cut the nut/stud of the mounting if no other way.


.

[Lolo256]

Do you lockite the bolts or is this not needed?