Discussion
Golflion said:
Where do they sell POR 15 paint or is it only online, as one of my jobs over the winter is to recoat areas of the chassis.
Is it as simple as rub down the surface rust, and paint straight on, or do i need to prime first?
Cheers
The only place I've seen it sold is Frost's. A rub-down of the surface rust is fine, no need to prime. In fact I think it's supposed to stick better to a rough surface anyway. Also, unless you think you can use a big tin in one go I recommend that you buy 6 small tins as resealing the lids without welding the lid on permanently is almost impossible (in my experience).Is it as simple as rub down the surface rust, and paint straight on, or do i need to prime first?
Cheers
You can get it from three places in the UK:
1) Frost - http://www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=24&am...
2) Holden Vintage - http://www.holden.co.uk/displayAgroups.asp?sg=3&am...
3) ACT - http://www.actproducts.co.uk/shop/por-15-rustbuste...
Frots were the first to bring it into the UK.
I tested it for them 14 years ago when we restored a MK2 Zephyr convertible for Practical Classics & Car Restorer magazine.
Its mazing stuff, I found it works best on rough or heavily keyed surfaces.
Actually rusted steel that's been given a good session with a wire brush is an ideal surface for PoR15, it really clings to a pitted surface.
However be warned!!!!
DO NOT GET IT ON YOUR HANDS.
It wont hurt you but removing it from your skin is almost impossible, you have to wait for your skin to peel before it goes.
The first time I used it I got it all over my fingers
, shortly after this I renamed the paint PoR Barsterd 
Other tips are:
The Hammerite was a joke, no competition at all.
The 2K with etch was always going to do a great job.
But the PoR15 was by far the best performer on a previously rusted surface.
I couldn't believe it beat the 2K & etch, but beat it it did.
1) Frost - http://www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=24&am...
2) Holden Vintage - http://www.holden.co.uk/displayAgroups.asp?sg=3&am...
3) ACT - http://www.actproducts.co.uk/shop/por-15-rustbuste...
Frots were the first to bring it into the UK.
I tested it for them 14 years ago when we restored a MK2 Zephyr convertible for Practical Classics & Car Restorer magazine.
Its mazing stuff, I found it works best on rough or heavily keyed surfaces.
Actually rusted steel that's been given a good session with a wire brush is an ideal surface for PoR15, it really clings to a pitted surface.
However be warned!!!!
DO NOT GET IT ON YOUR HANDS.
It wont hurt you but removing it from your skin is almost impossible, you have to wait for your skin to peel before it goes.
The first time I used it I got it all over my fingers
, shortly after this I renamed the paint PoR Barsterd Other tips are:
- View your brushes as disposable, just buy cheap ones from the pound shop and chuck the used brush after each painting session
- Always decant what you plan to use into a small pot, then close the lid of the main tin immediately
- Wear gloves
- It goes off quicker in humid or damp conditions, but like all paints you must make sure what you are applying it to is dry and free from contaminants such as oil or grease
The Hammerite was a joke, no competition at all.
The 2K with etch was always going to do a great job.
But the PoR15 was by far the best performer on a previously rusted surface.
I couldn't believe it beat the 2K & etch, but beat it it did.
I used his stuff .Epoxy two pack and comes with thiners if you decide to spray.Got to say it very good stuff.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RUSTBUSTER-EPOXY-MASTIC-5m2-...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RUSTBUSTER-EPOXY-MASTIC-5m2-...
I also used Epoxy Mastic and it takes at least 12 hours to go off, so no danger of it setting too quick.
My reasons for not using POR was whether it would stick to the original powder coat properly, which EM does very well. I think in general EM is more tolerant of non perfect prep, which was good for me ;-)
My reasons for not using POR was whether it would stick to the original powder coat properly, which EM does very well. I think in general EM is more tolerant of non perfect prep, which was good for me ;-)
theaxe said:
Also, unless you think you can use a big tin in one go I recommend that you buy 6 small tins as resealing the lids without welding the lid on permanently is almost impossible (in my experience).
A simple method to avoid this is to place a piece of cling-film (not stretched) over the open tin, seal the lid securely and store the tin upside down .
kenny Chim 4 said:
theaxe said:
Also, unless you think you can use a big tin in one go I recommend that you buy 6 small tins as resealing the lids without welding the lid on permanently is almost impossible (in my experience).
A simple method to avoid this is to place a piece of cling-film (not stretched) over the open tin, seal the lid securely and store the tin upside down .I've just done a full chassis with POR-15, and it is THE stuff to use. It is very tough and rock hard, but like all paint, preparation is the key.
Order POR-15 Marine clean, and some POR-15 Metal Ready.
The Marine Clean will get rid of any grease or oil on the metal, this is crucial to ensuring a good key, and not using it is false economy, you run the risk of the POR-15 not adhering properly, the slightest trace of grease will negate the durability of POR-15.
POR-15 Metal ready is an acid spray, easy to use, and kills off any surface rust and etches the metal to provide a good key for the POR-15 paint. It's essential to use this. DON'T use any Rust converter stuff first, it affects the adhesion of the POR-15.
Clean the area with Gunk first to get rid of the worst of grease and oil.
Wire brush all the rusted areas, an electric drill with a rotary wire brush attachment is the best and easiest method.
Use a coarse production paper (P60 or P80) to feather off the existing sound powder coating where it meets the bare rusted metal.
Clean the area with 'Marine Clean'.
Spray the on the 'Metal Ready', and leave for a few hours. (It's in a trigger spray bottle)
When it's dry apply the POR-15 over the bare metal and over the edge of the good existing powder coating.
POR-15 dries to a very tough, amazingly hard finish, and it's only drawback is that because it is so hard, when you paint over it with the white paint, the paint doesn't adhere to it fantastically well. So regard white paint merely as a cosmetic aid to make it look pretty, it's the POR-15 that is protecting the metal. not the white paint.
Follow all the precautions listed in the other posts, especially the advice about using a scoop (or something similar) to get the paint out of the tin, don't pour it into another container, believe me, You will not get the lid off next time!
Order POR-15 Marine clean, and some POR-15 Metal Ready.
The Marine Clean will get rid of any grease or oil on the metal, this is crucial to ensuring a good key, and not using it is false economy, you run the risk of the POR-15 not adhering properly, the slightest trace of grease will negate the durability of POR-15.
POR-15 Metal ready is an acid spray, easy to use, and kills off any surface rust and etches the metal to provide a good key for the POR-15 paint. It's essential to use this. DON'T use any Rust converter stuff first, it affects the adhesion of the POR-15.
Clean the area with Gunk first to get rid of the worst of grease and oil.
Wire brush all the rusted areas, an electric drill with a rotary wire brush attachment is the best and easiest method.
Use a coarse production paper (P60 or P80) to feather off the existing sound powder coating where it meets the bare rusted metal.
Clean the area with 'Marine Clean'.
Spray the on the 'Metal Ready', and leave for a few hours. (It's in a trigger spray bottle)
When it's dry apply the POR-15 over the bare metal and over the edge of the good existing powder coating.
POR-15 dries to a very tough, amazingly hard finish, and it's only drawback is that because it is so hard, when you paint over it with the white paint, the paint doesn't adhere to it fantastically well. So regard white paint merely as a cosmetic aid to make it look pretty, it's the POR-15 that is protecting the metal. not the white paint.
Follow all the precautions listed in the other posts, especially the advice about using a scoop (or something similar) to get the paint out of the tin, don't pour it into another container, believe me, You will not get the lid off next time!
I've used 2 coats. Put one caot on to cover everything and then another when tacky (usually after a couple of hours). I bought the 6 small tins as they are better value with less wastage. POR do a white paint called Whitecote. I bought some for our crittall windows but haven't used it yet. I'm sure I read that you could re-enamel and old cast iron bath with it??
FFG
FFG
carsy said:
How many coats of por do you have to put on bair metal. Ive also heard you have to apply additional coats whilst the previous coat is still tacky. Could prove a little inconvenient time wise.
Just apply it straight out of the tin, one thick coat should be enough. But one persons 'thick coat' is a another persons 'thin coat'. You just need to strike the balance between being a thick enough coat, and not too thick to cause runs. If you do apply additional coats, yes, do it while it is still tacky, once it has dried, it is too hard to allow subsequent coats to key to it. Of course it's a bit 'inconvenient', but having to repair a rusted chassis is a lot more inconvenient.
Some good advice on here. JensenA used the same painting process as I did and like FFG I also bought lots of small cans because throwing away 1/2 a tin because its set rock hard isn't a big deal.
As Colin Redgriff says, my advice is to protect yourself as much as you can (thanks for the acknowledgement Colin)
This damned stuff DOESN'T come off your skin. I don't mean you can't wash it off, you can't pick it off either.
And if you think you'll be careful and not get any on you, this WAS being careful..
As Colin Redgriff says, my advice is to protect yourself as much as you can (thanks for the acknowledgement Colin)
This damned stuff DOESN'T come off your skin. I don't mean you can't wash it off, you can't pick it off either.
And if you think you'll be careful and not get any on you, this WAS being careful..
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