Newbie questions
Discussion
Hi,
Hope you don't mind the long list, but I'm just settling in to ownership and I've got a few questions. I'm sure loads more will crop up.
Where are the front and rear jacking points on the Chimaera?
What are my options for trickle charging - I've got a small auxilary plug down in the footwell which I presume is intended for accumate etc? How long will a healthy battery normally hold charge between runs?
The headlamps aren't spectacular, what are my options for getting a bit more light?
There seems to be a flat spot in the power curve at higher rpm than the usual 1700-2000rpm shunt; is there anything to check?
Mine's got an aftermarket headunit with an ancient Minidisc player (remember those?) fitted - is it just a straightforward swap to put a new one in? i.e. There's nothing TVR-specific that'll have Halfrauds scratching their heads?
It's running very low profile tyres on 18" wheels front and rear. I intend to change these, but in the meantime can anyone suggest what sort of tyre pressures they should be running?
Can anyone recommend suitable treatments to keep the paintwork (bright yellow) and the leather (very dark, lamost black, blue) in good condition? Similarly, on the mechanical side, is there anything I need to check, clean or lubricate in between services?
Kind of covered this elsehwere already, but seems getting the 18s off remans a priority: does anyone know where I could get hold of a set of Estorils for a sensible price? Failing that, any other suggestions for 15/16" wheels and tyres?
All this reminds me I need to get hold of a Steve Heath bible and join (well, rejoin after my S-Series days...) the TVRCC.
Many thanks,
Chris
Hope you don't mind the long list, but I'm just settling in to ownership and I've got a few questions. I'm sure loads more will crop up.
Where are the front and rear jacking points on the Chimaera?
What are my options for trickle charging - I've got a small auxilary plug down in the footwell which I presume is intended for accumate etc? How long will a healthy battery normally hold charge between runs?
The headlamps aren't spectacular, what are my options for getting a bit more light?
There seems to be a flat spot in the power curve at higher rpm than the usual 1700-2000rpm shunt; is there anything to check?
Mine's got an aftermarket headunit with an ancient Minidisc player (remember those?) fitted - is it just a straightforward swap to put a new one in? i.e. There's nothing TVR-specific that'll have Halfrauds scratching their heads?
It's running very low profile tyres on 18" wheels front and rear. I intend to change these, but in the meantime can anyone suggest what sort of tyre pressures they should be running?
Can anyone recommend suitable treatments to keep the paintwork (bright yellow) and the leather (very dark, lamost black, blue) in good condition? Similarly, on the mechanical side, is there anything I need to check, clean or lubricate in between services?
Kind of covered this elsehwere already, but seems getting the 18s off remans a priority: does anyone know where I could get hold of a set of Estorils for a sensible price? Failing that, any other suggestions for 15/16" wheels and tyres?
All this reminds me I need to get hold of a Steve Heath bible and join (well, rejoin after my S-Series days...) the TVRCC.
Many thanks,
Chris
- Where are the front and rear jacking points on the Chimaera?
Axle stands should be placed on the square section central chassis rails.
- What are my options for trickle charging - I've got a small auxilary plug down in the footwell which I presume is intended for accumate etc? How long will a healthy battery normally hold charge between runs?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...
It does everything the expensive trickle chargers do for half the price.
Hard wire it to your battery, run the cables towards the back of the car hiding them under the passenger foot well carpet.
Fit the charger in the storage compartment behind the passenger seat, plug it into a 3 meter extension cable from Argos, run the plug end of the cable behind carpet & over the rear wheel arch so it exits in the boot.
Back the car to where you mains socket is, plug in the extension lead and close to boot, job done.
My battery will hold enough charge to start the car for 10 days, after that its a bit hit & miss if the car will start.
After 2 weeks its very unlikely the battery will retain enough charge to start the car.
However with the Halfords Maintenance Charger plugged in the car can be left indefinitely with no starting problems ever.
And the battery is kept in tip top condition, my battery is 5 years old, has suffered at least 4 deep discharge incidents and its still going strong.
For £25.00 the Halfords Maintenance Charger is a no brainer.
- The headlamps aren't spectacular, what are my options for getting a bit more light?
http://www.dcp-shop.co.uk/buy-car-accessories/prod...
Up to 80% more light, no more complicated to fit than changing the bulbs and my headlights are now better than those on my 3 year old company car.
- There seems to be a flat spot in the power curve at higher rpm than the usual 1700-2000rpm shunt; is there anything to check?
More details here:
http://www.track-days.co.uk/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&...
And here:
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
- Mine's got an aftermarket headunit with an ancient Minidisc player (remember those?) fitted - is it just a straightforward swap to put a new one in? i.e. There's nothing TVR-specific that'll have Halfrauds scratching their heads?
Here is what I did for sat nav & MP3 through the ice:
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
- It's running very low profile tyres on 18" wheels front and rear. I intend to change these, but in the meantime can anyone suggest what sort of tyre pressures they should be running?
- Can anyone recommend suitable treatments to keep the paintwork (bright yellow) and the leather (very dark, lamost black, blue) in good condition?
PAINT (Every six months):
Bilt & Hamber Autobalm
http://www.bilthamber.com/autobalm.html
Or Colinite.
http://www.monzacarcare.com/6204/collinite-super-d...
PAINT (Every month):
Wash it with Zymol Natural Car Wash.
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...
Apply a quick sealing coat of Turtle Wax Platinum Series Protective Extra Gloss.
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...
LEATHER SEAT FACES:
Clean with Glyptone GT12.
Feed with Glyptone GT11 Conditioner.
Blend out scuffs, creases and cracks with Glyptone Scuffmaster water based dye, Glyptone will match your seat colour exactly from their database or a sample.
- Similarly, on the mechanical side, is there anything I need to check, clean or lubricate in between services?
- Kind of covered this elsehwere already, but seems getting the 18s off remans a priority: does anyone know where I could get hold of a set of Estorils for a sensible price? Failing that, any other suggestions for 15/16" wheels and tyres?
Frenchie is also looking for a set so you have a bit of North London competition, fitting 16" wheels all round makes a lot of sense.
You just need two sets of 16" rears.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Hope all this helps?
Dave.
Cheers Dave. Lots of useful info.
With regards the wheels I'm now thinking about a lightweight (non-OEM) 16/17" combo. That or 15/16" still.
With regards the battery charger, the current connector is one of these:

Oh, another thing that cropped up. My passenger door is a bit reluctant to close - it comes up against what feels like a hard stop when you try to shut it. It opens fine on both the rotary switch thing on the centre console and the button under mirror and it will close with a bit of persuasion but it's not 100%. I'm fairly sure it's up against the catch or something, it's not a dropped door fouling the sill or anything like that. Any ideas?
Plus, what sort of fuel economy is normal for a 500? Admittedly I'm going by the fuel gauge here (which if it's anything like the S3 won't be the most reliable indication), but I appear to have used getting on for a quarter of a tank in 30-something miles yesterday!
(...It was worth it though)
With regards the wheels I'm now thinking about a lightweight (non-OEM) 16/17" combo. That or 15/16" still.
With regards the battery charger, the current connector is one of these:

Oh, another thing that cropped up. My passenger door is a bit reluctant to close - it comes up against what feels like a hard stop when you try to shut it. It opens fine on both the rotary switch thing on the centre console and the button under mirror and it will close with a bit of persuasion but it's not 100%. I'm fairly sure it's up against the catch or something, it's not a dropped door fouling the sill or anything like that. Any ideas?

Plus, what sort of fuel economy is normal for a 500? Admittedly I'm going by the fuel gauge here (which if it's anything like the S3 won't be the most reliable indication), but I appear to have used getting on for a quarter of a tank in 30-something miles yesterday!
(...It was worth it though)
If you have a flat spot then MPG wont be as good as it could be so you need that sorted before you can really assess the mpg.
I get 30mpg on a run in my 400 and I don't think 500's are necessarily much worse.
Best around the doors was 26mpg but that was really trying to hyper-mile! I'd say 22-24 around town is what I get normally.
Naturally, good plugs/leads/plug gap/rotor arm, clean air+fuel filter and regular oil changes are essential to good mpg and are easily things most owners can check/change.
I've just changed the thermostat on mine which has helped it come off auto choke much much earlier than it was previously in this cold weather, I think it either had a 'summer' 'stat or was sticking open but it was fine during summer. Even though the temp guage isn't accurate, mine was barely getting out of the blue which even taking gauge error into account was still to cold. Now with new 82deg 'stat in place it pretty much sits bang in the middle or just ubove 70 rising to an indicated 85-90 sitting in traffic and fuel economy is back to what it was (i.e not too bad for a v8 daily driver)
I get 30mpg on a run in my 400 and I don't think 500's are necessarily much worse.
Best around the doors was 26mpg but that was really trying to hyper-mile! I'd say 22-24 around town is what I get normally.
Naturally, good plugs/leads/plug gap/rotor arm, clean air+fuel filter and regular oil changes are essential to good mpg and are easily things most owners can check/change.
I've just changed the thermostat on mine which has helped it come off auto choke much much earlier than it was previously in this cold weather, I think it either had a 'summer' 'stat or was sticking open but it was fine during summer. Even though the temp guage isn't accurate, mine was barely getting out of the blue which even taking gauge error into account was still to cold. Now with new 82deg 'stat in place it pretty much sits bang in the middle or just ubove 70 rising to an indicated 85-90 sitting in traffic and fuel economy is back to what it was (i.e not too bad for a v8 daily driver)
Chris71
My driver's door very occasionally (and completely randomly) does the 'slamming against a hard stop with it just bouncing back open' thing. If I push down on the door while simultaneously closing it, problem solved. It's like it has come up slightly on the hinges, but there seems to be no vertical play whatsoever. I just live with it.
My driver's door very occasionally (and completely randomly) does the 'slamming against a hard stop with it just bouncing back open' thing. If I push down on the door while simultaneously closing it, problem solved. It's like it has come up slightly on the hinges, but there seems to be no vertical play whatsoever. I just live with it.
The connector looks (from what you can tell in the photo) very much liek the accumate connector, probably hardwired to the battery, in exactly the same position as I have mine. May people just use the cigerette lighter socket though as it is permanently live
I had no power to my garage for several years of ownership and whilst I did try to ensure regular use the battery died after a year of intermittent use. Since the accumate I've never had any problems. Given the hassle of a battery change and the cost of battery's the charger is worth it.
I had no power to my garage for several years of ownership and whilst I did try to ensure regular use the battery died after a year of intermittent use. Since the accumate I've never had any problems. Given the hassle of a battery change and the cost of battery's the charger is worth it.
I've just ordered myself an Accumate Pro. It's perhaps a slightly frivolous purchase when there are cheaper systems around, but I figure I'll be trickle charging second cars for many years to come, so it should pay for itself! Plus my last trickle charger flambeyed itself on the bonnet of my S3 and I'm quite keen that doesn't happen again.
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