Winter running temps?
Winter running temps?
Author
Discussion

jmsgld

Original Poster:

1,085 posts

207 months

Tuesday 30th November 2010
quotequote all
Just curious as to other's indicated winter running temps?
99 4.0 chim
Town / Traffic 80-90
Country roads 60-70
Motorway 58!

I presumed my stat wasn't working, but having researched on here, this seems less likely... funny thing is, I still get plenty enough warm air in the cabin to just wear jeans and a T shirt, so am a little reluctant to fit a blind in case I cause it to overheat... but if it is genuinely running that cool, I would have thought that would significantly increase engine wear? I'm no mechanic!

Anyone know the most reliable way to test the actual running temp? I'm aware operating temp should be something like 88, but the temp must vary widely over the different parts of the engine...

paulathome

686 posts

249 months

Tuesday 30th November 2010
quotequote all
Well I got p**sed off with my lack of heater temp over the last couple of months with all the frosts and snow. The gauge just about gets off the stop after 12 mile journey to work. I replaced the thermostat recently and the radiator 18 months ago so I assume I am suffering over cooling.
I just removed the rubber strip on the top of the radiator and dropped a plastic card roughly the same size as the radiator with a flexible strip at the top which bends forward towards the front of the car and is held in place when the bonnet is shut. So basically the radiator is completely blocked from the air flow and the car seems much happier and holds a nice 75C stationary or on the move.
Fuel consumption has improved and the heater is more than toasty within 5 minutes of setting off.
No guarantee implied or given, but work just fine for me.
Paul.
(just had several brown trouser experiences on the way home from work in 4 inches of snow on top of ice................which was nice)

Alexdaredevilz

5,697 posts

210 months

Tuesday 30th November 2010
quotequote all
Stick a bit of cardboard in front of the rad, it should slide down, (don't cover it all) should sort your problems out
and also if it does get to hot pop bonnet and remove card

Alex

trv8

311 posts

238 months

Wednesday 1st December 2010
quotequote all
Sheets of plastic and cardboard eh!
I remember when my Ford Zephyr mk2 had a roller blind in front of the rad, operated by wire and a nice chrome chain hanging down from the dash. Worked a treat. Come on, own-up! Who else remembers.

Edited by trv8 on Wednesday 1st December 08:56

Chimpafrolic

9,637 posts

210 months

Wednesday 1st December 2010
quotequote all
trv8 said:
Sheets of plastic and cardboard eh!
I remember when my Ford Zephyr mk2 had a roller blind in front of the rad, opperated by wire and a nice chrome chain hanging down from the dash. Worked a treat. Come on, own-up! Who else remembers.
I do.

I may only be a young pup but 15 years ago I was making a living (just) out of restoring those old Fords.



A rad blind is my solution for my Chim too, made my one from a caravan window blind.

Works a treat.


scotty_d

6,795 posts

225 months

Wednesday 1st December 2010
quotequote all
trv8 said:
Sheets of plastic and cardboard eh!
I remember when my Ford Zephyr mk2 had a roller blind in front of the rad, operated by wire and a nice chrome chain hanging down from the dash. Worked a treat. Come on, own-up! Who else remembers.

Edited by trv8 on Wednesday 1st December 08:56
My dad was telling me about this last year lol

Good idea

Edited by scotty_d on Wednesday 1st December 09:27

trv8

311 posts

238 months

Wednesday 1st December 2010
quotequote all
It is a great idea and one that works and is simple to do. An adjustable radiator blind eh! Much better than popping the bonnet and faffing about with cardboard all the time.

spend

12,581 posts

282 months

Wednesday 1st December 2010
quotequote all
OP if the heater is OK its more likely just the sender location is getting overcooled, rather than anything to with the engine temp.

Badmutha

658 posts

224 months

Wednesday 1st December 2010
quotequote all
I had two winters of cold running temperatures until I got around to checking the thermostat and found it to be the 74 degree one. Replacing it with an 82 degree solved the problem, and is always worth a check first.

dog man

552 posts

233 months

Thursday 2nd December 2010
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I have recently tackled this same thing. I solved it by fitting a new 82* thermostat. The old one had a small bleed hole in it so coolant could always get through even when fully closed - great for summer but not for winter. Anyways, new 82* item installed and all is well, it comes off choke much earlier and indicated temp on motorway is 70-75 which if you take gauge error into account sounds spot on. Before it would just about come out of the blue and would stay on choke for ages resulting in slightly more fuel usage.

I doubt engine wear would occur related to thermostats sticking open. Valve seats would take more of a beating and could become pitted and possibly the bores could get slightly flooded thus removing the lubrication from the cylinder wall but you would have to be running for a long long time effectively on full choke (i.e with 'stat stuck open) for this to happen to the extent that it actually wears the engine. Don't get me wrong it's not good to have the wrong 'stat but it's not imminent doom either.

TV8

3,575 posts

206 months

Thursday 2nd December 2010
quotequote all
I use a bit of board to increase my running temperature. I wouldn't use cardboard though if you use the car in the wet. If it gets wet it could block the radiator.

spend

12,581 posts

282 months

Thursday 2nd December 2010
quotequote all
dog man said:
I have recently tackled this same thing. I solved it by fitting a new 82* thermostat. The old one had a small bleed hole in it so coolant could always get through even when fully closed - great for summer but not for winter. Anyways, new 82* item installed and all is well, it comes off choke much earlier and indicated temp on motorway is 70-75 which if you take gauge error into account sounds spot on. Before it would just about come out of the blue and would stay on choke for ages resulting in slightly more fuel usage.

I doubt engine wear would occur related to thermostats sticking open. Valve seats would take more of a beating and could become pitted and possibly the bores could get slightly flooded thus removing the lubrication from the cylinder wall but you would have to be running for a long long time effectively on full choke (i.e with 'stat stuck open) for this to happen to the extent that it actually wears the engine. Don't get me wrong it's not good to have the wrong 'stat but it's not imminent doom either.
Without the hole your heads are likely to be full of air rather than water?

ray von

3,065 posts

283 months

Thursday 2nd December 2010
quotequote all
spend said:
OP if the heater is OK its more likely just the sender location is getting overcooled, rather than anything to with the engine temp.
Can this not be made into a git big banner and made a sticky at the top of the forum? biggrin

2 sMoKiN bArReLs

32,044 posts

266 months

Thursday 2nd December 2010
quotequote all
Guages notoriously inaccurate & variable.

jmsgld

Original Poster:

1,085 posts

207 months

Thursday 2nd December 2010
quotequote all
Excellent, thanks guys!
From what I had read, I had thought it was v. unlikely to be the stat, but shall certainly check the temp rating tomorrow and probably change it for a new 82, for the price of a stat, might as well, and an excuse to get my hands dirty anyway smile

Is there already a sender in the RR hole? or do you have to get one? To be honest I'm not that bothered what the dial reads, it seems fairly consistent so anything out of the ordinary should show up... I do love the way that on a hot day thrashing her round the track and it still never goes above 90 though smile

I'm reassured no ones cringing at running the old girl that cold anyways, was mildly concerned, not had a car that's run cool before... was indicated 50 in the chucking it with snow on a dual carriageway today, and heater was decidedly lame, but that's the first time I've wanted more heating.... now just got to start saving for the body off she'll undoubtedly need come spring...

Harrytsg

1,264 posts

193 months

Friday 3rd December 2010
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I've just changed mine, motorway gauge temp has increased from 50 to 70, both thermostats are 82 degree versions.

spend

12,581 posts

282 months

Friday 3rd December 2010
quotequote all
Just drilling the vent hole out can cause that much of a difference in cold weather. If you look at a lot of the summer cooling problems... you'll see advised making sure the vent hole is big enough.

After going round in circles on this a few years ago, I simply resigned myself to changing stats for summer & winter.

Pink_Floyd

900 posts

252 months

Friday 3rd December 2010
quotequote all
My stat was an 82deg one and the engine ran cold, found the best thing was to block off half the rad, and that fixed it.
As for the temp sender then it is a little distance from the water see.

So I modified it to this.

But as I am rebuilding the car I don't know if it is any better.

Edited by Pink_Floyd on Friday 3rd December 09:31

quattrophenia

1,103 posts

229 months

Friday 3rd December 2010
quotequote all
Recently had new rad, water pump, and otter switch so my cooling system should be 100%.
I would say on the move it sits at 70oC almost all the time and up to 80-82oC in town. Cant say I have driven it when the temp has been below 0oC yet tho.