Head gasket failure?
Discussion
Have been losing a lot of coolant over the last two weeks - probably added 15 litres to the system in that time.
Noticed that i have a brown sludge/froth on top of the water in the swirl tank which looks like a pale cappucino!
Could this be oil in the water? I've checked the oil cap and oil itself. This is fine - no milky residue, oil at correct level.
Having searched the forums, i'm fearing this is due to a failed head gasket. I can't explain where i'm losing coolant however - there does not appear to be any leaks.
I plan to flush the cooling system this week - the swirl tank has had a residue on its sides ever since i bought the car - and see if the brown froth reappears and also investigate any leaks.
If it is the head gasket, i plan to do all the work myself (with a lot of help from my clever and very mechanically minded Dad!), but i dont want to jump to conclusions, so any further diagnosis would be appreciated.
Cheers
>>> Edited by jsr on Sunday 18th April 13:00
Noticed that i have a brown sludge/froth on top of the water in the swirl tank which looks like a pale cappucino!
Could this be oil in the water? I've checked the oil cap and oil itself. This is fine - no milky residue, oil at correct level.
Having searched the forums, i'm fearing this is due to a failed head gasket. I can't explain where i'm losing coolant however - there does not appear to be any leaks.
I plan to flush the cooling system this week - the swirl tank has had a residue on its sides ever since i bought the car - and see if the brown froth reappears and also investigate any leaks.
If it is the head gasket, i plan to do all the work myself (with a lot of help from my clever and very mechanically minded Dad!), but i dont want to jump to conclusions, so any further diagnosis would be appreciated.
Cheers
>>> Edited by jsr on Sunday 18th April 13:00
Although I dont own a Chim Yet ( James Agger is looking for one for me ) I do have some experience of blown head gaskets on other cars. It is possible that water / vapour is being forced into the cylinders on the down stroke. Have you noticed increased pressure in the cooling system or any white smoke / vapour from the exhaust?
ntel said:
Although I dont own a Chim Yet ( James Agger is looking for one for me ) I do have some experience of blown head gaskets on other cars. It is possible that water / vapour is being forced into the cylinders on the down stroke. Have you noticed increased pressure in the cooling system or any white smoke / vapour from the exhaust?
Exactly the problem I had on my Chim - no vapour - but after trying everything else the heads came off to reveal small leaks from waterways to chambers.
The increased pressure in the cooling system accounted for a water pump gasket, a couple of hoses and a radiator, and more recently my (new) radiator died - probably as a result of the HGF.
Don't want to spread doom and gloom....but I had exactly the same symptoms on my previous chim (that why its my previous!!). Had the head gaskets changed and the heads pressure tested (which showed no problems). After this it just got worse until even the radiator was clogged with what looked like mayo and continual overheating. Turned out to be a cracked block (which I'm told is very rare) requiring a £5,000 engine rebuild (inc labour). I hope yours is just the gaskets.
Good luck
Good luck
jsr said:
Have been losing a lot of coolant over the last two weeks - probably added 15 litres to the system in that time.
Noticed that i have a brown sludge/froth on top of the water in the swirl tank which looks like a pale cappucino!
Could this be oil in the water? I've checked the oil cap and oil itself. This is fine - no milky residue, oil at correct level.
Having searched the forums, i'm fearing this is due to a failed head gasket. I can't explain where i'm losing coolant however - there does not appear to be any leaks.
I plan to flush the cooling system this week - the swirl tank has had a residue on its sides ever since i bought the car - and see if the brown froth reappears and also investigate any leaks.
If it is the head gasket, i plan to do all the work myself (with a lot of help from my clever and very mechanically minded Dad!), but i dont want to jump to conclusions, so any further diagnosis would be appreciated.
Cheers
>>> Edited by jsr on Sunday 18th April 13:00
For what it's worth my '93 Chim had similar, but I needed a new radiator and the "Brown froth" was Bars leaks by previous owner. Ensure you have eliminated all air in the system - depends whether serp or as mine pre-serp on how to remove all the air - if you don't, it will look like its "eating" a lot of water.
Hope that helps perhaps ??
Trev McM
Thanks for all your replies 
Gonna speak to TVR and a few dealers tomorrow to see what they think. Also gonna flush the cooling system and fill it properly, eliminating any air in the system.
This evening i inspected the cooling system and there are no visible leaks. Also, the hoses were fairly hard to squash, so the system is generating pressure (engine was running).
There's another test i'm planning on doing tomorrow - start the engine, then turn it straight off, check for any water on the spark plugs.
However, i also hope to have made a decision, by end of tomorrow, as to whether i'm going to replace the head gaskets myself. I am apprehensive because it appears to be a big job and also because there isn't any conclusive test that can be done to say what my problem is - it could be any number of things.
Has anyone taken apart their engine? Is there anything to look out for? Any advice?
Have got copy of Bible (V1) and just ordered a Land Rover V8 engine overhaul manual.
Gonna speak to TVR and a few dealers tomorrow to see what they think. Also gonna flush the cooling system and fill it properly, eliminating any air in the system.
This evening i inspected the cooling system and there are no visible leaks. Also, the hoses were fairly hard to squash, so the system is generating pressure (engine was running).
There's another test i'm planning on doing tomorrow - start the engine, then turn it straight off, check for any water on the spark plugs.
However, i also hope to have made a decision, by end of tomorrow, as to whether i'm going to replace the head gaskets myself. I am apprehensive because it appears to be a big job and also because there isn't any conclusive test that can be done to say what my problem is - it could be any number of things.
Has anyone taken apart their engine? Is there anything to look out for? Any advice?
Have got copy of Bible (V1) and just ordered a Land Rover V8 engine overhaul manual.
Before you embark on this which is a big job, especially if you don't have any experience is to get the coolent carbon checked. Doesn't cost much but will confirm if there is a problem. Also get a coolent system pressure tested as this will often identify problems that you wouldn't see before.
V2 of the bible (double the size of v1) goes through some of the other gotchas with head removal. The air con system has to be depressurised and repressurised afterwards. It is worth checking the cam and the rockers. V2 has some piccies that will make your hair curl with fright. What Tower View and myself found in my Griff was cracked rockers and missing seats. Neddless to say they all had to be replaced along with the cam. It also has piccies of the traditional headgasket leaking points.
If the gasket has gone, the heads will usually need skimming and chceking to make sure they are not warped. If this is not done, the heads will not seal and the gasket will fail again. If really bad, the heads will need to be replaced.
If you do go ahead, make sure you get the same gaskets as were fitted. A lot of variation especially as gaskets were used to change CR. The cylinder head bolts are a throwaway item and new ones will be needed. You need to get the torquing sequence for the bolts that you use. Again a lot of variation.
Head gaskets normally are acommapnied with an increase in running temperatures which you haven't mentioned. It can also be a rad leak caused by flexing so that it only happens when the car is moving, The water is then blown away. If there is brown slush it is quite possible that the water ways have been blocked and a previous owner has used radweld. Not a good idea as this can lead to locally boiling water and this can cause coolent to be lost. Again covered in the new version of the bible.
To be honest, I would do some of these other checks first before going anywhere near the heads. Changing the Gaskets will cost about £300 in bits and pieces for a start so it is worth getting some checks done for a few pounds before stepping into the brach and potntially opening Pandora's box.
>> Edited by shpub on Tuesday 20th April 07:26
V2 of the bible (double the size of v1) goes through some of the other gotchas with head removal. The air con system has to be depressurised and repressurised afterwards. It is worth checking the cam and the rockers. V2 has some piccies that will make your hair curl with fright. What Tower View and myself found in my Griff was cracked rockers and missing seats. Neddless to say they all had to be replaced along with the cam. It also has piccies of the traditional headgasket leaking points.
If the gasket has gone, the heads will usually need skimming and chceking to make sure they are not warped. If this is not done, the heads will not seal and the gasket will fail again. If really bad, the heads will need to be replaced.
If you do go ahead, make sure you get the same gaskets as were fitted. A lot of variation especially as gaskets were used to change CR. The cylinder head bolts are a throwaway item and new ones will be needed. You need to get the torquing sequence for the bolts that you use. Again a lot of variation.
Head gaskets normally are acommapnied with an increase in running temperatures which you haven't mentioned. It can also be a rad leak caused by flexing so that it only happens when the car is moving, The water is then blown away. If there is brown slush it is quite possible that the water ways have been blocked and a previous owner has used radweld. Not a good idea as this can lead to locally boiling water and this can cause coolent to be lost. Again covered in the new version of the bible.
To be honest, I would do some of these other checks first before going anywhere near the heads. Changing the Gaskets will cost about £300 in bits and pieces for a start so it is worth getting some checks done for a few pounds before stepping into the brach and potntially opening Pandora's box.
>> Edited by shpub on Tuesday 20th April 07:26
Thanks for that shpub!
I decided late last night that i wont rush into this. What i have noticed is that the coolant is clear and shows no froth when it has been left to rest.
I now suspect i have an air lock and contaminated water which produces the froth when the car is running.
Will flush system after work and bleed properly.
Gonna order a copy of the bible V2 now...
I decided late last night that i wont rush into this. What i have noticed is that the coolant is clear and shows no froth when it has been left to rest.
I now suspect i have an air lock and contaminated water which produces the froth when the car is running.
Will flush system after work and bleed properly.
Gonna order a copy of the bible V2 now...
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