Discussion
My chassis looks to be in great condition and still has all the original powder coating and most of a previously applied waxoil. Just for piece of mind I was considering giving it a clean up and another chassis treatment. My query is - would people simply 'wash' the chassis down of all easily removable dirt and then apply some new sealant, or would you scrape all the old stuff off.
I really dont think it needs anything too drastic because surely removing/damaging any of the original powder coating is asking for trouble and unneccessary?
Is reapplying another coat of say waxoil on top of the old stuff OK?
I really dont think it needs anything too drastic because surely removing/damaging any of the original powder coating is asking for trouble and unneccessary?
Is reapplying another coat of say waxoil on top of the old stuff OK?
I agree with scotty d, a good clean up and touching up repairing any rust areas is in my opinion better than waxoiling, at least you can see ant areas that require attention, although I don't drive it when the salt is on the roads and it is kept in my garage after being used. Duringthe winter (Dec/Jan)I put it on axle stands and clean and touch up any areas that have rust spots..
dogbucket said:
The problem is if rust has got under the original powder coat then waxoyl over the top is no good.
So minimum of clean it up and have a good scape to remove any loose stuff first.
Plus I would (and have) use Dinitrol 4941 which lasts much longer.
Must say i have to agree here. Waxoyl im sure is a very good product, if applied within 6 months of purchasing a new Tvr, which no one ever did. It is used as an after thought [in my opinion]most owners worry about chassis rot, and rightly so, so your local TVR garage, offer at a reasonable price, to cover everywhere in waxoyl. Now you go away quite happy thinking my chassis is protected, could not be more wrong, again just my opinion, it hides more than it protects. Keep it as is, if not already covered in waxoyl and touch up the c##p powdercoating that tvr did at the factory.So minimum of clean it up and have a good scape to remove any loose stuff first.
Plus I would (and have) use Dinitrol 4941 which lasts much longer.
Interestingly I spoke to Bilt Hamber a little while ago about their underbody sealant Dynax UB. I applied this to my freshly powder coated outriggers - but if you give it a really good scrape with your fingernail it is possible to scrape it off, though admittedly the coating showed no sign of giving way due to normal road debris.
They said that they had put in a lot of effort to develop the product not to trap water - they said normal underseal and similar products tended to trap water once compromised which makes a lot of sense to me.
They said that they had put in a lot of effort to develop the product not to trap water - they said normal underseal and similar products tended to trap water once compromised which makes a lot of sense to me.
I spent 4 weeks removing waxoyl and re-painting my old chims's Chassis.
Now i have started all over again with the Cerb the joys
the Cerbs Chassis seems to be pretty good (new out riggers at some point) but after taking some of the waxoyl off i have found a few areas of surface rust which will be treated and painted and jutt kept on top off.
Now i have started all over again with the Cerb the joys

the Cerbs Chassis seems to be pretty good (new out riggers at some point) but after taking some of the waxoyl off i have found a few areas of surface rust which will be treated and painted and jutt kept on top off.
I must admit after spending weeks carefully stripping and repainting the outriggers and front wishbones I had kinda lost interest in the whole job. So for the rear suspension just scraped off all the loose powder coat and sprayed on Dinitrol. Still looks perfect 2 years later. It seems to dry to a fairly durable matt finish.
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