Discussion
Gents, I'm looking for any advice and/or recommendations.
My radiator needs recoring, there are definate occasional puffs of steam coming from mine, at least until it gets up to temperature, but in my experience these things never get better by themselves.
I'm near Epping ( Essex).
Are there any modifications worth making?
My radiator needs recoring, there are definate occasional puffs of steam coming from mine, at least until it gets up to temperature, but in my experience these things never get better by themselves.
I'm near Epping ( Essex).
Are there any modifications worth making?
k out or everyone including you....If its a small leak try this.Worked for me. About 12 pounds for a small bottle, NOT RADWELD!!
www.kalimex.co.uk
www.kalimex.co.uk
If your driving down the road and your engine goes bang you are going to feel a complete idiot for the sake of a £150 re-core!. I noticed 1 single drip of coolant and a tiny bit of staining coming from the top corner of my rad and that was enough to take it off the road and sort it ASAP it really ain't worth the risk. It is pretty straight forward and actually quite an enjoyable job.
One thing I would recomend however, using a piece of string or something, mark the 'EXACT' distance between the 2 mounting holes that the pins on the bottom of the rad sit in. If the recored rad is welded even 5-10mm wider it will not go back in to your car and you will not be a very happy chappy to put it mildly
The weather is going to be crap next week so you have no excuse!
One thing I would recomend however, using a piece of string or something, mark the 'EXACT' distance between the 2 mounting holes that the pins on the bottom of the rad sit in. If the recored rad is welded even 5-10mm wider it will not go back in to your car and you will not be a very happy chappy to put it mildly
The weather is going to be crap next week so you have no excuse!
spend said:
Why do you seem convinced a bit of damp turning to steam is a faulty rad?
Pressure test for leaks, slow to cool / fans running overtime summer general hint at scaled up cores (among other possible faults).
I don't really see the point of pressure testing as I've witnessed the steam coming from the O/S of the rad, although it does stop when it reaches temp, also my pressure tester only has the 'conventional' half turn type adapter, damn you Sykes pickevant!Pressure test for leaks, slow to cool / fans running overtime summer general hint at scaled up cores (among other possible faults).
Additionally the cooling vanes are departing en masse, so the efficiency of the rad will only get worse.
The cooling system functions perfectly at the moment so I see no reason to suspect another fault.
Coolant and thermostat were replaced 2 months ago.
My Radiator with new hoses including fitting cost me over £1,000 at Leven last July time.
They only fitted Alloy ones as standard, which adding in everything else pipes (£160 IIRC), labour etc came out very expensive.
Only used the car about 4 times since I had it done, as I discovered a fuel leak in October and have not used it since.
They only fitted Alloy ones as standard, which adding in everything else pipes (£160 IIRC), labour etc came out very expensive.
Only used the car about 4 times since I had it done, as I discovered a fuel leak in October and have not used it since.
Glad i fitted it myself 
A few of us on here have had custom Alloy ones made up for less than off the shelf prices i fitted one to my Chim and it is a very nice Rad i would give cropper and jones a call first i will be using them again for the Cerbs one when the time comes.
Here is a link here to the thread
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Here is a link here to the thread
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
When I took it in they said that they fit alloy one although I could have got a re-cored one from a local garage. I thought that if it went again after a short time I would have to pay out the labour again to have it refitted.
Mine has aircon, (although the condensor has gone and needs replacing), and on all counts it was a nightmare to remove the fan shrouds and they had to be cut off. The whole job took longer than they actually billed me for.
The breakdown was:
Radiator £399
Silicone Hose kit £139
Stainless steel Coolant pipe £43
Antifreeze £2.57 (x4)
Radiator Bobbin £4.00
Labour £60 (x5)
Plus VAT on top of that little lot.
Mine has aircon, (although the condensor has gone and needs replacing), and on all counts it was a nightmare to remove the fan shrouds and they had to be cut off. The whole job took longer than they actually billed me for.
The breakdown was:
Radiator £399
Silicone Hose kit £139
Stainless steel Coolant pipe £43
Antifreeze £2.57 (x4)
Radiator Bobbin £4.00
Labour £60 (x5)
Plus VAT on top of that little lot.
Its a pretty straight forward DIY job.
I was quoted £350 plus VAT by a TVR specialist.
I had the rad recored at the same place he was going to have it done (as I found out after by accident) for £150 ish.
With the money I saved I bought a set of silicone hoses but you should also think about changing the swan neck steel pipe for a stainless one if its not already been changed as mine was fairly heavily corroded and I can't see any others being in better condition if they haven't been changed.
As someone mentioned earlier I had problems with the recored rad having the bottom pins slightly further apart than they were originally. I modifies the car to fit but if I was doing another one I would mark the positions beforehand on some cardboard and not accept it back unless they were exactly the same distance apart as they are originally.
Cover the wings with old towels or curtains to avoid damaging the paint when lifting the rad and fans in and out and make sure the fan connections are cleaned up and maikng good contact before reinstallation.
While the rad is away being recored you can clean up behind it and check things like the carbon canister.
I found the filler hose for the washer bottle had a hole in it and replaced that while the rad was out.
If either of the 2 bobbins break that support the top of the rad they are available from Halfords for 99p each - mini exhaust mounts.
Make sure you refill with GOOD QUALITY antifreeze mixture and use the bleed procedure.
I was quoted £350 plus VAT by a TVR specialist.
I had the rad recored at the same place he was going to have it done (as I found out after by accident) for £150 ish.
With the money I saved I bought a set of silicone hoses but you should also think about changing the swan neck steel pipe for a stainless one if its not already been changed as mine was fairly heavily corroded and I can't see any others being in better condition if they haven't been changed.
As someone mentioned earlier I had problems with the recored rad having the bottom pins slightly further apart than they were originally. I modifies the car to fit but if I was doing another one I would mark the positions beforehand on some cardboard and not accept it back unless they were exactly the same distance apart as they are originally.
Cover the wings with old towels or curtains to avoid damaging the paint when lifting the rad and fans in and out and make sure the fan connections are cleaned up and maikng good contact before reinstallation.
While the rad is away being recored you can clean up behind it and check things like the carbon canister.
I found the filler hose for the washer bottle had a hole in it and replaced that while the rad was out.
If either of the 2 bobbins break that support the top of the rad they are available from Halfords for 99p each - mini exhaust mounts.
Make sure you refill with GOOD QUALITY antifreeze mixture and use the bleed procedure.
Edited by Tyre Tread on Monday 3rd January 17:17
Had mine re-cored before going to Le Mans last year as it was steaming away happily at the top offside, cost me £150ish but gives you peace of mind that your not gonna cook the engine and it's an easy job.Unless your running a highly modified engine i can't see the need for an ally rad really as the stock system has plenty of capacity when well maintained. PS the mounting bobbins are classic mini exhaust mounts so pennies from the usual suspects.
Many thanks for the replies gents, I will bear in mind the advice particularly the pin spacing. I'm still debating wether to go for the alloy version as mentioned earlier or re-coring my original.
Back to work tomorrow along with every other unfortunate I will make some phone calls and check my bank account post it's Christmas abuse and decide what route to take.
THANKS AGAIN ALL.
Back to work tomorrow along with every other unfortunate I will make some phone calls and check my bank account post it's Christmas abuse and decide what route to take.
THANKS AGAIN ALL.
Harrytsg said:
Many thanks for the replies gents, I will bear in mind the advice particularly the pin spacing. I'm still debating wether to go for the alloy version as mentioned earlier or re-coring my original.
Back to work tomorrow along with every other unfortunate I will make some phone calls and check my bank account post it's Christmas abuse and decide what route to take.
THANKS AGAIN ALL.
I considered the alloy rad option but it doesn't need the extra cooling and if a stone or debris goes through your alloy rad its an expensive wright off.Back to work tomorrow along with every other unfortunate I will make some phone calls and check my bank account post it's Christmas abuse and decide what route to take.
THANKS AGAIN ALL.
Even the TVR speacialist told me he wondered why anyone would go down the ally rad route
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