Lost idle today
Discussion
Ran car for about 10 miles then stopped at Supermarket for 10 mins, when I came back started up but no idle for the next 10 miles back. Temp went to about 95 when it had stood , started fine but needed throttle to keep it alive. Also felt fairly sluggish on the way back.
Let it cool whilst I fixed Central heating in my house ! again !! when I re started to put it away it had an idle again.
any thoughts?
Let it cool whilst I fixed Central heating in my house ! again !! when I re started to put it away it had an idle again.
any thoughts?
Any 12v coil will be fine. The one you have for the Chevy sounds fine.
I'd be looking at the idle control valve. You can remove it and inspect/clean it easily enough to eliminate that as a potential cause.
Temp might be coincidental....anything temp related that is causing running issues suggest HG failure but this doesn't sound like HG issues (Hopefully)
Have a look at the inside of the distributor cap and rotor arm, see how that looks. Also make sure the afm door is moving freely.
Check throttle position sensor also
I'd be looking at the idle control valve. You can remove it and inspect/clean it easily enough to eliminate that as a potential cause.
Temp might be coincidental....anything temp related that is causing running issues suggest HG failure but this doesn't sound like HG issues (Hopefully)
Have a look at the inside of the distributor cap and rotor arm, see how that looks. Also make sure the afm door is moving freely.
Check throttle position sensor also
Sorry chaps, the coil is ballasted so runs at less than 12 volts (about 9.5 I think) so it needs to be the correct one. Also the ignition amp / trigger rotor and coil are all designed to work together, as the demands on a signal coil are very high on a V8 engine, so Lucas have designed the whole lot to keep the spark voltage up as the RPM rises, and changing the coil type may alter this fine balance. Id go for a jammed up Stepper motor, or possibly an air leak around the plenum somewhere to start with.
This is definitely not the case on the pre serp engines (Ive not measured the serp set up.)I cant remember how the coil voltage sits with the engine stopped, but its quite likely to read 12 volts on the ignition side, as the ignition amp would be open circuit so no current will be drawn through the resistive feed wire, so it wont drop any volts. It will however drop when the ignition amp turns on, and current is drawn, so the coils operating voltage is 9-10 volts an no more. If you take one of these coils and put the full 12 volts on it they will burn out- I know Ive done it by mistake. Like wise if you use a 12 volt coil, the corresponding HT voltage will drop by about 20 %, which you may not notice until the rpm gets up a bit and the HT drops to low to ignite the mixture reliably.
http://www.famousfour.co.uk/new_parts/parts-veh-rr...
Under electrical
Thats for the amp on the side of the distributor, I think the external amp is a lot more expensive.
As a matter of interest how did you test it?
Under electrical
Thats for the amp on the side of the distributor, I think the external amp is a lot more expensive.
As a matter of interest how did you test it?
The wiring twixt dizzy & amp is known to break down on those ~ try and ascertain with your wiggling whether it is the cables or the amp itself?
Better still just make sure you get the kit with amp + fly leads (I thought most were like that these days TBH whether you have attached or remote).
Better still just make sure you get the kit with amp + fly leads (I thought most were like that these days TBH whether you have attached or remote).
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