Help - removal of transmission tunnel cover
Discussion
Hi Nosh
There is one screw under the coin tray (the pad in the bottom of it lifts off for access) and then there are two screws at the front either side. Slide back slightly then lift. Complete removal may need handbrake adjustment to almost vertical, but if all you want to check are the earths then it can usually be maneuvered out of the way enough for access without needing that.
Cheers
J
There is one screw under the coin tray (the pad in the bottom of it lifts off for access) and then there are two screws at the front either side. Slide back slightly then lift. Complete removal may need handbrake adjustment to almost vertical, but if all you want to check are the earths then it can usually be maneuvered out of the way enough for access without needing that.
Cheers
J
Edited by Konrod on Monday 3rd January 11:41
Konrod said:
Hi Nosh
There is one screw under the coin tray (the pad in the bottom of it lifts off for access) and then there are two screws at the front either side. Slide back slightly then lift. Complete removal may need handbrake adjustment to almost vertical, but if all you want to check are the earths then it can usually be maneuvered out of the way enough for access without needing that.
Cheers
J
JThere is one screw under the coin tray (the pad in the bottom of it lifts off for access) and then there are two screws at the front either side. Slide back slightly then lift. Complete removal may need handbrake adjustment to almost vertical, but if all you want to check are the earths then it can usually be maneuvered out of the way enough for access without needing that.
Cheers
J
Edited by Konrod on Monday 3rd January 11:41
Cheers - but a silly question - the two screws are at the front of what?
Thanks again - really appreciated
N
Nosh said:
Konrod said:
Hi Nosh
There is one screw under the coin tray (the pad in the bottom of it lifts off for access) and then there are two screws at the front either side. Slide back slightly then lift. Complete removal may need handbrake adjustment to almost vertical, but if all you want to check are the earths then it can usually be maneuvered out of the way enough for access without needing that.
Cheers
J
JThere is one screw under the coin tray (the pad in the bottom of it lifts off for access) and then there are two screws at the front either side. Slide back slightly then lift. Complete removal may need handbrake adjustment to almost vertical, but if all you want to check are the earths then it can usually be maneuvered out of the way enough for access without needing that.
Cheers
J
Edited by Konrod on Monday 3rd January 11:41
Cheers - but a silly question - the two screws are at the front of what?
Thanks again - really appreciated
N
ok - got it out and no screws - weird...
There were 2 screws holing it in at the back, but now I have the consul out (mrs doing some cleaning and some stiching on a small tear) I still cannot see the earthing points!!!!
Anyone got piccys?
Do I need to remove carpet and the such like
Thanks in advance
Nosh
There were 2 screws holing it in at the back, but now I have the consul out (mrs doing some cleaning and some stiching on a small tear) I still cannot see the earthing points!!!!
Anyone got piccys?
Do I need to remove carpet and the such like
Thanks in advance
Nosh
They gave you the info for later cars, yours has screws under the coin tray and just unhooks at the front. Unless you totally slacken off the handbrake it is impossible to get out, except where the mod of shortening the tongues has been made (another one of mine 
).
Look up the holes that held the 'tongues' and you'll see (only see!) the bolts. To get at them you need to prise the carpet out under the lower dash and peel back - many just slit the carpet to gain access where it is covered by the tunnel cover IIRC.
).Look up the holes that held the 'tongues' and you'll see (only see!) the bolts. To get at them you need to prise the carpet out under the lower dash and peel back - many just slit the carpet to gain access where it is covered by the tunnel cover IIRC.
spend said:
They gave you the info for later cars, yours has screws under the coin tray and just unhooks at the front. Unless you totally slacken off the handbrake it is impossible to get out, except where the mod of shortening the tongues has been made (another one of mine ).
Look up the holes that held the 'tongues' and you'll see (only see!) the bolts. To get at them you need to prise the carpet out under the lower dash and peel back - many just slit the carpet to gain access where it is covered by the tunnel cover IIRC.
Cheers Spend - It is an early Chim (93) - looks like your 'mod' was done. Centre came out sweet. ).Look up the holes that held the 'tongues' and you'll see (only see!) the bolts. To get at them you need to prise the carpet out under the lower dash and peel back - many just slit the carpet to gain access where it is covered by the tunnel cover IIRC.
However, there are the two holes that the tongues came out of - the carpet holds down the fiberglass bit with the two tunnels as part of it...
Cutting an access hole in the carpet wont work, as it looks like I have to peel back all the carpet to get the fiberglass bit out, so I can access the bolts....
Heres a piccy I snapped with the blackberry, so I know I am on the right track...
Am I doing something wrong here?
Reconnect the battery and still have the glowing red light, but at least the car is showing over 14 volts when the car is running....so there is charge going into it....
These are the last two earths I need to get to and I am getting immensley frustrated!!!
Nosh
Its very hard work to loosen the carpet 'under the cubby', spatula / tyre levers / screw drivers + much patience and swearing... (been there done it - twice!). Once loosened its nearly as hard to slip out whilst levering up the lower dash. Reassembly is possible more effort 
The dash light is likely to be unconnected to the earth. The low forward voltage commonly activates the LED on those cars. Battery at 14.4V and regulated field coils at 12V is enough to make the LED glow. You basically need a smaller resistor in parallel with the LED - you'll see the std one behind the dash, just replace it with @1/2 the rating as a start.
It's still well worth 'sorting' the main earth, the really awkward access is why I took the time to duplex mine to the chassis and to take a ground directly up to the dash from them.
The dash light is likely to be unconnected to the earth. The low forward voltage commonly activates the LED on those cars. Battery at 14.4V and regulated field coils at 12V is enough to make the LED glow. You basically need a smaller resistor in parallel with the LED - you'll see the std one behind the dash, just replace it with @1/2 the rating as a start.
It's still well worth 'sorting' the main earth, the really awkward access is why I took the time to duplex mine to the chassis and to take a ground directly up to the dash from them.
spend said:
Its very hard work to loosen the carpet 'under the cubby', spatula / tyre levers / screw drivers + much patience and swearing... (been there done it - twice!). Once loosened its nearly as hard to slip out whilst levering up the lower dash. Reassembly is possible more effort
The dash light is likely to be unconnected to the earth. The low forward voltage commonly activates the LED on those cars. Battery at 14.4V and regulated field coils at 12V is enough to make the LED glow. You basically need a smaller resistor in parallel with the LED - you'll see the std one behind the dash, just replace it with @1/2 the rating as a start.
It's still well worth 'sorting' the main earth, the really awkward access is why I took the time to duplex mine to the chassis and to take a ground directly up to the dash from them.
Well, it transpires that there are small 'hatches / holes' that enable you to access the bolts for the earths without removing the all of the carpet - a sharp stanley knife done the trick and both earths have been checked.The dash light is likely to be unconnected to the earth. The low forward voltage commonly activates the LED on those cars. Battery at 14.4V and regulated field coils at 12V is enough to make the LED glow. You basically need a smaller resistor in parallel with the LED - you'll see the std one behind the dash, just replace it with @1/2 the rating as a start.
It's still well worth 'sorting' the main earth, the really awkward access is why I took the time to duplex mine to the chassis and to take a ground directly up to the dash from them.
The only one remaining now, is the one under the radiator....
The glowing light remains, but I have sorted the accumate connections (battery now being drip fed) and removed the interior light relay (and the interior lights have never worked!!) Also removed the problem with the main lights, which would alter the reading on the temp gauge, by reinstalling a wire that had come disconnected from the base of the relays...
Good job
Thanks.
Nosh
The 'glowing' ignition light syndrome is accentuated by having a battery in tip-top condition BTW.
Mine still always flickers at night with high rpm, quick way to test is flick on the heater fans - that draws enough on the dash circuit to just bring the forward voltage under the LED threshold. The range required to make the led work only when you want is pretty tricky, bulbs work fine and a relay is the occasionally mentioned definitive fix I still like it flickering & encouraging me to rev the bugger 
Mine still always flickers at night with high rpm, quick way to test is flick on the heater fans - that draws enough on the dash circuit to just bring the forward voltage under the LED threshold. The range required to make the led work only when you want is pretty tricky, bulbs work fine and a relay is the occasionally mentioned definitive fix
I still like it flickering & encouraging me to rev the bugger -Reconnect the battery and still have the glowing red light, but at least the car is showing over 14 volts when the car is running....so there is charge going into it....-
Just a thought....might be worth checking the 100 amp fuse.
The flickering red light was a symptom when my Chim fuse gave up. A word of warning - on casual inspection the fuse 'strip' can look fine until disturbed...whereupon the hairline crack is revealed and the fuse falls apart.
The fuse is in a black plastic holder on the chassis rail (lower on IIRC) on drivers side.
The other earth point for instruments/lights/wipers etc. is the one at the front of the car. Can be a bit exposed and cause some v.odd behaviours with associated circuits if not making good contact.
Nick.
Just a thought....might be worth checking the 100 amp fuse.
The flickering red light was a symptom when my Chim fuse gave up. A word of warning - on casual inspection the fuse 'strip' can look fine until disturbed...whereupon the hairline crack is revealed and the fuse falls apart.
The fuse is in a black plastic holder on the chassis rail (lower on IIRC) on drivers side.
The other earth point for instruments/lights/wipers etc. is the one at the front of the car. Can be a bit exposed and cause some v.odd behaviours with associated circuits if not making good contact.
Nick.
spend said:
I'd be surprised if the OP had an Alternator fuse, given the build age from the transmission tunnel details
You ain't wrong there..its an oldie...... Got a signature on it as well....
The last (unchecked) earthing point is at the front....
....can i get to this without removing the rad?
Nosh
Edited by Nosh on Tuesday 4th January 14:46
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