Wheel Size Help
Discussion
Just fitted my Tower View 300mm disc conversion and 4 pots, guess what, the standard 15" wheels foul the calipers 
. Does anyone know if it is possible to machine the inside of the original wheels to clear the calipers or do I need to fit bigger wheels to the front? If it is the latter, will the rear wheels fit the front or do I need a new set of 4 wheels? Also what size wheels and tyres would you recommend?
Am dying to get the car back on the road, so any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
. Does anyone know if it is possible to machine the inside of the original wheels to clear the calipers or do I need to fit bigger wheels to the front? If it is the latter, will the rear wheels fit the front or do I need a new set of 4 wheels? Also what size wheels and tyres would you recommend? Am dying to get the car back on the road, so any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
What calipers and wheels?
I used to run Wilwood cast superlite calipers with 300mm rotors in the standard Chim 4.0 15" 5-spoke rims. It was a very tight fit, but it did fit (with a fraction of a millimeter in every direction). The calipers were quite a long way inboard to miss the narrow part of the rim, I had to replace a wheel bearing that had slightly too much play when it got hot, I had to move the wheel weights to miss the caliper, and turn the retaining split pin for the pads round so they stuck in rather than out. Oh and I had to juggle all the tolerances on the mounting bracket so the caliper was as close to the disk as possible without clipping the rotor when it expanded. It all fitted, just, barely. Now I'm running 16" rims I've got stacks of space though.
I used to run Wilwood cast superlite calipers with 300mm rotors in the standard Chim 4.0 15" 5-spoke rims. It was a very tight fit, but it did fit (with a fraction of a millimeter in every direction). The calipers were quite a long way inboard to miss the narrow part of the rim, I had to replace a wheel bearing that had slightly too much play when it got hot, I had to move the wheel weights to miss the caliper, and turn the retaining split pin for the pads round so they stuck in rather than out. Oh and I had to juggle all the tolerances on the mounting bracket so the caliper was as close to the disk as possible without clipping the rotor when it expanded. It all fitted, just, barely. Now I'm running 16" rims I've got stacks of space though.
Wilwood superlite billet calipers with tower view 300mm discs. I have aboy 20 thou clearance max ( have jugled about with caliper position to get max clearance) but it still catches under braking when warm. What 16" wheels have you fitted, will any 108pcd 7 x 16 25mm Offset wheel fit the front and matching 108pcd 7.5 x 16 35mm offset for the back fit.
Want to go and order some tomorrow but am not sure what to ask for.
Want to go and order some tomorrow but am not sure what to ask for.
Andy
Problem is the caliper has a link pipe at the bottom and it's this pipe that hits the wheel first, was wondering if I could have some machined off the wheel inside edge or fit wheel spacers (about 6mm) but the wheel studs arn't long enough for the spacers. If i could go for 16" wheels all round I could re-use my rear tyres and would need to buy 4 new wheels 7.5 x 16 and some new front tyres.It's just a case of finding out what wheels will fit ( without spacers). Does 7.5 x 16 ET 23 front and 7.5 x 16 ET 33 rear sound about right??
Thanks
Adam
Problem is the caliper has a link pipe at the bottom and it's this pipe that hits the wheel first, was wondering if I could have some machined off the wheel inside edge or fit wheel spacers (about 6mm) but the wheel studs arn't long enough for the spacers. If i could go for 16" wheels all round I could re-use my rear tyres and would need to buy 4 new wheels 7.5 x 16 and some new front tyres.It's just a case of finding out what wheels will fit ( without spacers). Does 7.5 x 16 ET 23 front and 7.5 x 16 ET 33 rear sound about right??
Thanks
Adam
Fitted aluminium caliper carrier bracket to REAR of the hub, used a washer between the face of the hub and bracket to space the calliper central to the disc and move it away from the wheel.
Bolted the calliper to the cut outs in the bracket (Calliper sits lower than center position) have more clearance (between wheel) at top of calliper than at the bottom. Could not see any other way of bolting it together but as I say clearance is minimal even between the disc and inner face of the caliper. It's as if the brackets are not allowing the caliper to follow the same radius as the disc.
Bolted the calliper to the cut outs in the bracket (Calliper sits lower than center position) have more clearance (between wheel) at top of calliper than at the bottom. Could not see any other way of bolting it together but as I say clearance is minimal even between the disc and inner face of the caliper. It's as if the brackets are not allowing the caliper to follow the same radius as the disc.
Andy
Tried all combinations, and I have a few mm at the top and about 20thou at bottom. Could it be because my car is a 1993 with the early hubs and 240mmm discs. Could see no other way of fitting it. The bracket from the other side would have made it miles out. I also have about 2mm clearance on the disc edge to inside of the caliper at the bottom and about 15thou at the top, as if the calliper is kicked out at the bottom, although the pads follow the disc radius (with about a 2mm gap at the edge of unswept disc) I realy did spend about an hour trying different combinations. Its so little out that surely if it was on wrong it would be miles out ??
Tried all combinations, and I have a few mm at the top and about 20thou at bottom. Could it be because my car is a 1993 with the early hubs and 240mmm discs. Could see no other way of fitting it. The bracket from the other side would have made it miles out. I also have about 2mm clearance on the disc edge to inside of the caliper at the bottom and about 15thou at the top, as if the calliper is kicked out at the bottom, although the pads follow the disc radius (with about a 2mm gap at the edge of unswept disc) I realy did spend about an hour trying different combinations. Its so little out that surely if it was on wrong it would be miles out ??
I would talk to Tower View on this. It is possible that you have one of the "special" uprights - I was going to use the word akward - where the dimensions are slightly out. The uprights are machined after casting and can vary. This is why some discs fit and some don't.
I would not recommend machining the wheels as this will weaken them and as they take a lot of pounding. they could easily buckle or bend.
I would not recommend machining the wheels as this will weaken them and as they take a lot of pounding. they could easily buckle or bend.
Just to keep you posted, spoke to Tower View Racing, not had this problem before but agreed with my findings.
Have opted to go down the 17" route and ordered a set of Voxx R-Action 17x7 rims 15mm offset front and 35mm offset rear with Yokohama AVS Sport 215/45 front and 225/45 rear. Should get these tomorrow or Wednesday.
Will let you know how I get on.
Adam
Have opted to go down the 17" route and ordered a set of Voxx R-Action 17x7 rims 15mm offset front and 35mm offset rear with Yokohama AVS Sport 215/45 front and 225/45 rear. Should get these tomorrow or Wednesday.
Will let you know how I get on.
Adam
Fronts are 7 x 15 with 25mm offset, new fronts will stick out 10mm more. Rears are 7.5 x 16 with 35mm offset, new rears will be narrower by 12.5mm and be 6mm further in although the tyre width will be the same. According to Demon Tweeks this is ok, if anyone thinks this is not a good idea then please speak up.
Thanks
Adam
Thanks
Adam
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