Fitting a lip spoiler
Discussion
I wouldn't use self tapers, I always drill and then apply resin to reseal the bodywork.
Drop some bolts through holes, put a nut on to lock the bolt and then fasten the spoiler up is my method. Same as a lot of stuff I have fixed in the nosecone, wing filters, alarms, oil coolers, hids, earths, rad shrouds....
Drop some bolts through holes, put a nut on to lock the bolt and then fasten the spoiler up is my method. Same as a lot of stuff I have fixed in the nosecone, wing filters, alarms, oil coolers, hids, earths, rad shrouds....
Fit these in anticipation of them being ripped off. Attach it too firmly and you'll do lots of damage next time you drive over a speed bump. Treat it as a sacrificial part, I just make them out of UPVC square line guttering. The upper edge has a very similar angle to the original equipment spoiler. When it rips off I just cut a new one. 4m length of black square line guttering costs me £5.30. I get 4 spoilers out of that
Dave 500 said:
I just use pop rivets. Nice and simple and if/when it gets ripped off they just pull out with minimal damage 
That's what I used on my chim too. Self-tappers could make a mess of the bumper when the inevitable happens and the spoiler is ripped off. Aluminium pop rivets are strong enough at xxx mph and break cleanly away when you rip off the spoiler!Lots of people called B/S but I am certain my car was more stable at high speeds after fitting it.
Chris71 said:
What's involved in pop-rivetting exactly - drill a hole and fire the gun rivet gun?
Might look into the guttering. I presume it's fairly rigid? Obviously I want to make sure it maintains its shape at speed.
There are several manufacturers. I had some grey gutter in my garage and used it to practice on. The black gutter I bought is thinner but the cut out sections are still quite rigid Might look into the guttering. I presume it's fairly rigid? Obviously I want to make sure it maintains its shape at speed.
Surprised Rubber Rob hasn't shown his face.... yet! 
An old version of the gutter approach at http://tvr3.dspen.com/Splitter/splitter.html , I don't bother cutting out side reliefs to weaken the splitter anymore, just a few 'teeth' and it does no harm to the bodywork.
An old version of the gutter approach at http://tvr3.dspen.com/Splitter/splitter.html , I don't bother cutting out side reliefs to weaken the splitter anymore, just a few 'teeth' and it does no harm to the bodywork.
Chris71 said:
What's involved in pop-rivetting exactly - drill a hole and fire the gun rivet gun?
Probably better than I could explain it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bGAiC0_i_kChris71 said:
So, if you put bolts in is it relatively easy to get to the top side of them from above?
If you want the spoiler located all the way back its a PITA to reach under the rad, locate it forwards & it will be easier...I put them under the rad, but thats why I use bolts locked in with 1/2 nuts so they just look like studs when you come to fit the spoiler. Plating it all up with nice big washers and a strip of rubber stuck on the bodywork seems to give it a nice seal as well as a bit of flex when necessary
.You will likely also find there are no drain holes in the undertray, I replaced these at the same time to prevent the sloshing, as well as duplexing the chassis earths to studs through the undertray..
Shnozz said:
Lots of people called B/S but I am certain my car was more stable at high speeds after fitting it.
I agree - I took mine pre-spoiler to Germany and it felt a bit light at a GPS indicated 130ish. A few months later at Bruntingthorpe it was a lot more planted at similar speeds. I also noticed the n/s corner of the bonnet did not lift, and it did seem to reduce underbonnet temperatures a touch. I still don't quite understand the physics and stuff behind it all, but for a few quid, a couple of small self tappers and a liberal dose of silicon it did make a difference.
And yes, it is a semi-sacrificial part, especially with a two decent size passengers on board!
That's a good point actually that I forgot about all these years later. My Chim used to run a little hot so I had fitted the leven kit of lower thermostat and water wetter to bring the engine temp down a little. Adding the splitter brought it down further (and more noticeable effect than the other mods!). I think if I had fitted the splitter at the outset I wouldn't have needed to do anything else. I guess that alone showed that it did make a fair difference to air flow.
As for rivetting it - I had never used a rivet gun thingy before and bought a cheap one at B&Q and some aluminium rivets. The pack of rivets advises what size drill bit to use and just a case of offering up the splitter, marking where the holes are sat, drilling the relevant size and then holding the splitter up to the holes, sticking the rivet in the gun and squeezing the trigger, wiggling the end afterwards to snap off the remainder of the rivet head. Piece of pss.
As for rivetting it - I had never used a rivet gun thingy before and bought a cheap one at B&Q and some aluminium rivets. The pack of rivets advises what size drill bit to use and just a case of offering up the splitter, marking where the holes are sat, drilling the relevant size and then holding the splitter up to the holes, sticking the rivet in the gun and squeezing the trigger, wiggling the end afterwards to snap off the remainder of the rivet head. Piece of pss.
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