Buying my first TVR - Please help
Discussion
All,
I am keen to buy my first TVR. I am looking at a 1995 4.0l Chimaera with 75,000 miles on the clock advertised for 9000 pounds.
I know there are Chimaeras out there which fit that description for less. This one looks like it has been very well looked after and claims a full engine re-build recently. My questions are:
When i go to view this car what are the areas i should pay particular attention to?
Should i be looking at the 4.5 or 5.0l or is the 4.0l ample for the first go?
Is there any major change in the Chimaera through the years ie should i be looking for a newer model?
Am i right in thinking an old model well looked after is better than a new one badly looked after?
Is the high mileage an issue if the engine has been re-built?
Not that im bothered, what sort of miles/gallon should i be expecting from the 4.0l?
Many thanks for all your help, with any luck with your help ill have the keys this time next week.
Rob
I am keen to buy my first TVR. I am looking at a 1995 4.0l Chimaera with 75,000 miles on the clock advertised for 9000 pounds.
I know there are Chimaeras out there which fit that description for less. This one looks like it has been very well looked after and claims a full engine re-build recently. My questions are:
When i go to view this car what are the areas i should pay particular attention to?
Should i be looking at the 4.5 or 5.0l or is the 4.0l ample for the first go?
Is there any major change in the Chimaera through the years ie should i be looking for a newer model?
Am i right in thinking an old model well looked after is better than a new one badly looked after?
Is the high mileage an issue if the engine has been re-built?
Not that im bothered, what sort of miles/gallon should i be expecting from the 4.0l?
Many thanks for all your help, with any luck with your help ill have the keys this time next week.
Rob
Just my experience, but I went straight for a later year ('98) 5 liter car (Griff, but...)
I had it for 6 months before I wanted more power. You get used to the power quite fast.
The later cars are apparently more refined - better brakes etc, as they developed the cars - so consider that.
You can drive a 500 like a 4L if you don't want to use all the power, but you can't drive a 4L like a 500.
Set yourself a budget limit and look at lots of cars - they all drive differently, even if they are the same model. Generally the right car finds you.
Put aside some extra money for post-purchase tweaks and fixes - its all part of TVR ownership.
Summer is coming and you won't regret the purchase. 2 years on from buying mine and I still look for any excuse to get in it for a blast.
Good luck.
I had it for 6 months before I wanted more power. You get used to the power quite fast.
The later cars are apparently more refined - better brakes etc, as they developed the cars - so consider that.
You can drive a 500 like a 4L if you don't want to use all the power, but you can't drive a 4L like a 500.
Set yourself a budget limit and look at lots of cars - they all drive differently, even if they are the same model. Generally the right car finds you.
Put aside some extra money for post-purchase tweaks and fixes - its all part of TVR ownership.
Summer is coming and you won't regret the purchase. 2 years on from buying mine and I still look for any excuse to get in it for a blast.
Good luck.
£9,000 for an early model 4.0 with high-ish mileage is an awful lot of money. Is this a dealer or private sale? You expect to pay a bit more with a dealer because you'll get a guarantee etc, but even so it's still too much unless the car is in superb condition. If it's a private seller then they're orbiting a different planet!
Very roughly, I'd start at about £6,500 (private) or £7,500 (dealer) for a car of that age, spec and mileage, assuming reasonable condition. You could add somewhere between £500 to £1000 to take account of its recent engine rebuild - depending on exactly how recent it is and whether there's a guarantee with that rebuild.
You should find out whether it's had any chassis restoration work done on it. This is by far the most important factor in assessing the condition of these cars, in particular the outriggers. If it's had new outriggers within the last few years then that's great - even better if it's had a full chassis restoration. Ask to see documentary proof of any chassis work. Don't rely on a promise that it's been "regularly Waxoyled" or "never seen a wet road" - the outriggers could still be badly corroded.
You should only consider paying £9,000* for this car if:
As others have said, you should definitely drive a few others as well. If you still think that this is "the one", then a specialist inspection is a very good idea. Many people (myself included) have used Rob Ingleby and are happy with his service. It reduces the odds of you buying a lemon.
Very roughly, I'd start at about £6,500 (private) or £7,500 (dealer) for a car of that age, spec and mileage, assuming reasonable condition. You could add somewhere between £500 to £1000 to take account of its recent engine rebuild - depending on exactly how recent it is and whether there's a guarantee with that rebuild.
You should find out whether it's had any chassis restoration work done on it. This is by far the most important factor in assessing the condition of these cars, in particular the outriggers. If it's had new outriggers within the last few years then that's great - even better if it's had a full chassis restoration. Ask to see documentary proof of any chassis work. Don't rely on a promise that it's been "regularly Waxoyled" or "never seen a wet road" - the outriggers could still be badly corroded.
You should only consider paying £9,000* for this car if:
- it's backed up by a decent dealer's guarantee, and
- the engine rebuild was genuinely recent, with documentary proof and preferably guaranteed, and
- the interior and bodywork are in near-perfect condition, and
- the chassis is in tip-top condition, ideally with documentary proof of some sort of restoration work, and
- there is something about this car that you really, really like that sets it apart from any others you've seen.
As others have said, you should definitely drive a few others as well. If you still think that this is "the one", then a specialist inspection is a very good idea. Many people (myself included) have used Rob Ingleby and are happy with his service. It reduces the odds of you buying a lemon.
Edited by Dr Mike Oxgreen on Monday 28th March 08:52
Also, yes the 4L will be plenty depending how you drive.
Think how much fun people say they have in MX-5's!
They will nudge 30mpg on a run if running correctly and I recorded 24-26mpg average driving like a granny - I was hyper-miling'' lol Well, I wanted to see what it could do!
The things I have found that make these drink fuel are: traffic and revvs - so same for any car but because they're so light, the difference in MPG between cruising and stop start seems massive. All round they seem to surprise most people at how reasonable they can be on fuel. I don't know of a better petrol V8 car for the money for MPG!
Think how much fun people say they have in MX-5's!
They will nudge 30mpg on a run if running correctly and I recorded 24-26mpg average driving like a granny - I was hyper-miling'' lol Well, I wanted to see what it could do!
The things I have found that make these drink fuel are: traffic and revvs - so same for any car but because they're so light, the difference in MPG between cruising and stop start seems massive. All round they seem to surprise most people at how reasonable they can be on fuel. I don't know of a better petrol V8 car for the money for MPG!
Hi Rob, does sound pretty high, I thought I was asking top dollar for mine at £7995 with 53k on the clock.
From the point of view of engine size, it's horses for courses - I've found the 4.0L plenty for me but you'll get loads of people on here who want more. I suppose the answer is to drive one of each size and take your choice. I'm only in Stoke if you want to pop over and have a look at mine.
Cheers,
IanB
07974 779335
From the point of view of engine size, it's horses for courses - I've found the 4.0L plenty for me but you'll get loads of people on here who want more. I suppose the answer is to drive one of each size and take your choice. I'm only in Stoke if you want to pop over and have a look at mine.
Cheers,
IanB
07974 779335
Usual comment: drive lots. Even if you don't consider yourself to be a hands on person you will get a feel for them. Price and condition don't always correlate. Obviously better cars do tend to go for more money, but you get some people with rather optimistic opinions on the market value of their pride and joy.
For £9k (plus the usual TVR contingency fund) I'd be inclined to look for a 450. A lot of people hold them to be the best compromise - certainly of the later cars (post 4.3) - between purchase price and performance. That said, a knackered 450 (or even 500) will produce less power and generally be less fun to drive than a good 400, so condition is vital.
For £9k (plus the usual TVR contingency fund) I'd be inclined to look for a 450. A lot of people hold them to be the best compromise - certainly of the later cars (post 4.3) - between purchase price and performance. That said, a knackered 450 (or even 500) will produce less power and generally be less fun to drive than a good 400, so condition is vital.
Firstly, excellent choice of car. Second, you've come to the right place for advice [if you can ignore the dross] You will hear tales of newer cars low milelage=crap, and old cars, high mileage=crap and I all I can say is with the risk of repeating, CONDITION. These cars can play on your emotions when you hear them, but it's not a race. 'Try' and be patient and seek as much knowledge as you can as there are plenty of helpful people on here [and some tossers too] but most will try and help. Look through the search engine and even e-mail some members. I for one would gladly reply if it helped. Good luck. 
find a friendly dealer, be honest with them on budget and ask if you can try a few of them out. I didnt like the drive of later 400 with pas compared with a griff 400 pre-cat non pas.
I was determined to buy from a dealer but then saw mine advertised locally as a private sale. It was a couple of thousand less than my budget and it has allowed me to do the bits that make it more like I wanted it to drive - suspension, later spec brakes and a proper decat pipe.
It is a good 400 but from time to time, I do wish it was a 450 or 500....
I was determined to buy from a dealer but then saw mine advertised locally as a private sale. It was a couple of thousand less than my budget and it has allowed me to do the bits that make it more like I wanted it to drive - suspension, later spec brakes and a proper decat pipe.
It is a good 400 but from time to time, I do wish it was a 450 or 500....
That is alot to be paying for that age of car, I would be expecting it to be in near perfect condition and would expect either a spotless chassis or outrigger replacement at least. I let my 450 on a 97 plate, with new hood, shocks recent clutch and a full history go for quite a bit less than that about a month ago. Personally I would go for a 4.5 or 5L but this depends very much on how you'll use the car. Also at that age I would expect the shocks to have been changed the originals will be tired.
Shop around, don't buy the first one you see and don't be afraid to travel. Go to some club meets and look at a few members cars.
Although chassis work seems to be getting cheaper it is still a significant cost. After 7 years of ownership with only limited pain, I would strongly adivse any new owner to pay significant attention to the chassis, possibly even wait for a car that has had a full body off with documentry proof if you plan on keeping it for a significant time.
Shop around, don't buy the first one you see and don't be afraid to travel. Go to some club meets and look at a few members cars.
Although chassis work seems to be getting cheaper it is still a significant cost. After 7 years of ownership with only limited pain, I would strongly adivse any new owner to pay significant attention to the chassis, possibly even wait for a car that has had a full body off with documentry proof if you plan on keeping it for a significant time.
Wow, thanks for all the help, most useful. I guess from what you have mentioned 9k seems far too steep. The one i have my eye on does look pretty mint but i take on board what you have said and there are a lot out there! Its funny you mention the MX-5, thats what im driving at the moment. Loving the driving but need the v8.
That said, Silicon Kid, the pics you have posted look promising and im obviously very interested in taking a look. Where abouts are you based? Id love to come and have a look (may be this weekend if you are around?)
I will let you know how i get on over the weekend and thanks again for the help!
Rob
That said, Silicon Kid, the pics you have posted look promising and im obviously very interested in taking a look. Where abouts are you based? Id love to come and have a look (may be this weekend if you are around?)
I will let you know how i get on over the weekend and thanks again for the help!
Rob
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