sensible upgrades
Discussion
It depends largely on your budget, what you deem as 'sensible' and what you are going to use the car for - road only, or track!
Most suspension upgrades seem to be replacing the OEM shocks to Gaz or Nitrons (I went for Nitrons but only 'cause budget allowed). Factor in the cost of a suspension set up after fitting.
The original brakes are often considered to be less than ideal for a car with so much power. Moving from the OEM single pots to 4 pots is common. It won't stop the car any quicker, but an upgrade should give you better 'feel' and the brakes will remain effective for longer if working hard on the them when on the track.
As far as the engine is concerned, it is only limited by budget. The TVR Taraka upgrade will give you a strong, healthy motor with more power and torque, and seems quite a lot of rebuild/upgrade for the money, but it certainly isn't the only engine rebuild/upgrade out there. If you're on a shoestring I'd start with a new cam (70k is quite a lot on an original cam) and fit a smooth bore induction hose. Getting the ECU rechipped and mapped may help ensure the engine is putting out its full power/torque potential and would be essential after changing the cam.
As a guide it will cost you about 100 quid for every horsepower increase you gain! Beware, it is easy to start chasing the BHP numbers and spend lots to get lots of power - which you can't effectively use on the road.
Hope you find this helpful.
Most suspension upgrades seem to be replacing the OEM shocks to Gaz or Nitrons (I went for Nitrons but only 'cause budget allowed). Factor in the cost of a suspension set up after fitting.
The original brakes are often considered to be less than ideal for a car with so much power. Moving from the OEM single pots to 4 pots is common. It won't stop the car any quicker, but an upgrade should give you better 'feel' and the brakes will remain effective for longer if working hard on the them when on the track.
As far as the engine is concerned, it is only limited by budget. The TVR Taraka upgrade will give you a strong, healthy motor with more power and torque, and seems quite a lot of rebuild/upgrade for the money, but it certainly isn't the only engine rebuild/upgrade out there. If you're on a shoestring I'd start with a new cam (70k is quite a lot on an original cam) and fit a smooth bore induction hose. Getting the ECU rechipped and mapped may help ensure the engine is putting out its full power/torque potential and would be essential after changing the cam.
As a guide it will cost you about 100 quid for every horsepower increase you gain! Beware, it is easy to start chasing the BHP numbers and spend lots to get lots of power - which you can't effectively use on the road.
Hope you find this helpful.
I'm not chasing the horsepower (at the moment Lol) and not planning on any tracksays. Not 100% yet what is still original so suppose will have to find that out. By all accounts the previous owner did not skimp on it's services so that's positive. It is on original suspension so that was my first thoughts to look at
Hi Ewan glad the search is going well.
As for upgrades Tyres are always the best thing to do first, A good set of rubber on these cars is key the best you can afford as it is the only thing in contact with the road.
A good service as well and health check get the car tip top before going any further. Then it depend on your budget shiny bits or performance upgrades
The standard brakes when in good health are plenty good for the road. Suspension is a good upgrade if the originals are leaking if not I would run with them for a while as they are pretty good from standard.
As for upgrades Tyres are always the best thing to do first, A good set of rubber on these cars is key the best you can afford as it is the only thing in contact with the road.
A good service as well and health check get the car tip top before going any further. Then it depend on your budget shiny bits or performance upgrades
The standard brakes when in good health are plenty good for the road. Suspension is a good upgrade if the originals are leaking if not I would run with them for a while as they are pretty good from standard.
Edited by scotty_d on Friday 8th April 08:03
Set it aside and run the car for a few months and it will become apparent what needs doing and what would benefit most from being renewed/upgraded.
It would also be best to consider whether the outriggers need doing in the near future and if that's possible then have the cash available to do it/have it done.
It would seem premature to upgrade anything until you've got the basics right.
Check brakes, tyres, clutch, diff, gearbox, rad and cooling system etc are in good working order before spending the spare cash.
A good service will also make a difference to how it will run so might be worth getting it serviced and inspected at a recommended specialist.
It would also be best to consider whether the outriggers need doing in the near future and if that's possible then have the cash available to do it/have it done.
It would seem premature to upgrade anything until you've got the basics right.
Check brakes, tyres, clutch, diff, gearbox, rad and cooling system etc are in good working order before spending the spare cash.
A good service will also make a difference to how it will run so might be worth getting it serviced and inspected at a recommended specialist.
Tyre Tread said:
Set it aside and run the car for a few months and it will become apparent what needs doing and what would benefit most from being renewed/upgraded.
It would also be best to consider whether the outriggers need doing in the near future and if that's possible then have the cash available to do it/have it done.
It would seem premature to upgrade anything until you've got the basics right.
Check brakes, tyres, clutch, diff, gearbox, rad and cooling system etc are in good working order before spending the spare cash.
A good service will also make a difference to how it will run so might be worth getting it serviced and inspected at a recommended specialist.
Its being serviced before I pick it up by a well respected Indy - so my thunking was get it done while its in. Outriggers all solid. Just trying to sort out arrangments to go see it next week and will find out whats been done to it in past It would also be best to consider whether the outriggers need doing in the near future and if that's possible then have the cash available to do it/have it done.
It would seem premature to upgrade anything until you've got the basics right.
Check brakes, tyres, clutch, diff, gearbox, rad and cooling system etc are in good working order before spending the spare cash.
A good service will also make a difference to how it will run so might be worth getting it serviced and inspected at a recommended specialist.
During my 15 months of ownership so far upgrades are:
Cosmetic:
Wheels refurbed at Lepsons
Rear off side panel repsprayed due to poor paint and car mopped and polished all over
Functional:
New battery
New tyres all round, Falken 452
ACT Smooth bore elbow to plenum
Uprated EPROM chip set up on RR by TVR Power
Gaz Golds all round set up for fast road use by TVR Power
Acumate purchased and connected to car at all times it is in my garage
Planned upgrades:
4 pot brakes with braided hoses and Castrol fluid
Ride Drive course, or possibly two
Cosmetic:
Wheels refurbed at Lepsons
Rear off side panel repsprayed due to poor paint and car mopped and polished all over
Functional:
New battery
New tyres all round, Falken 452
ACT Smooth bore elbow to plenum
Uprated EPROM chip set up on RR by TVR Power
Gaz Golds all round set up for fast road use by TVR Power
Acumate purchased and connected to car at all times it is in my garage
Planned upgrades:
4 pot brakes with braided hoses and Castrol fluid
Ride Drive course, or possibly two
Depending on budget...
Suspension - adjustable (I have Gaz Golds which are ok, I hear Nitrons are way better)
Rose Jointed drop links (this is the best uppgrade I have ever done and makes a massive difference and its very cheap)
ACT induction pipe (I gained 9bhp when I changed mine)
Decent tyres
New air filter (they often dont get changed and get clogged up)
If it has an original coil (usually black) replace with a bosch one
at 70k its worth getting the cam checked for wear but there are plenty of examples with 100k+ on original cams (so I hear) so just becuase its 70k doesnt necessarily mean you need a new cam.
If you have lots of £££ consider a replacement ECU
Suspension - adjustable (I have Gaz Golds which are ok, I hear Nitrons are way better)
Rose Jointed drop links (this is the best uppgrade I have ever done and makes a massive difference and its very cheap)
ACT induction pipe (I gained 9bhp when I changed mine)
Decent tyres
New air filter (they often dont get changed and get clogged up)
If it has an original coil (usually black) replace with a bosch one
at 70k its worth getting the cam checked for wear but there are plenty of examples with 100k+ on original cams (so I hear) so just becuase its 70k doesnt necessarily mean you need a new cam.
If you have lots of £££ consider a replacement ECU
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