How to lubricate Chim throttle cable?
Discussion
Hi guys,
I remember reading that you can create a funnel out of blu-tac and pour engine oil down the throttle cable sleeve.
Can anyone explain to me is really simple terms how you do this?
Which parts do I need to remove to get to the top of the cable sleeve?
What does the top of the sleeve actually look like?
Thanks
I remember reading that you can create a funnel out of blu-tac and pour engine oil down the throttle cable sleeve.
Can anyone explain to me is really simple terms how you do this?
Which parts do I need to remove to get to the top of the cable sleeve?
What does the top of the sleeve actually look like?
Thanks
I took the whole thing apart, if you have small dextrous hands you may be able to disconnect the throttle cable leaving the bracket in place, I couldn't however taking the whole lot apart meant I could clean it and replace the return springs easily.
Overview of the throttle cable bracket.
This is the bracket removed - you can see wheree the mounting screws are on the left end.
I remember they are quite difficult to get to, a headtorch is useful to keep both hands free.
Cable end tied to the underside of the bonnet so that gravity takes the lubricating oil through.
I dripped the oil in and wiggled the cable to get it moving - took ages so a funnel with blue tack
would be far better.
I replaced the two return springs with lighter springs, overall result was a vast improvement, accelerator is now far lighter and smoother. It's a bit of a fiddle but worth it.
Overview of the throttle cable bracket.
This is the bracket removed - you can see wheree the mounting screws are on the left end.
I remember they are quite difficult to get to, a headtorch is useful to keep both hands free.
Cable end tied to the underside of the bonnet so that gravity takes the lubricating oil through.
I dripped the oil in and wiggled the cable to get it moving - took ages so a funnel with blue tack
would be far better.
I replaced the two return springs with lighter springs, overall result was a vast improvement, accelerator is now far lighter and smoother. It's a bit of a fiddle but worth it.
Lighter springs came from a friend who runs a garage.
He has a whole tray of different springs and let me take a selection away to try.
Not a very helpful answer I'm afraid.
One useful tip he have me was a quick way to assess tension spring strengths relative to each other.
Link them together, pull the two ends and you can see which one opens up the most and is therefore
the weaker spring. That also helped in making sure the two springs I used were identical strength.
He has a whole tray of different springs and let me take a selection away to try.
Not a very helpful answer I'm afraid.
One useful tip he have me was a quick way to assess tension spring strengths relative to each other.
Link them together, pull the two ends and you can see which one opens up the most and is therefore
the weaker spring. That also helped in making sure the two springs I used were identical strength.
Thanks for the demonstration! Very informative.
This is way more complex/involved than I thought it would be though.
I was expecting:
1) open bonnet
2) locate this thing (pic with arrow pointing to cable)
3) pour oil in
4) close bonnet
It will probably be worthwhile me doing this job so that I am better prepared if the cable snaps in the middle of nowhere!
This is way more complex/involved than I thought it would be though.
I was expecting:
1) open bonnet
2) locate this thing (pic with arrow pointing to cable)
3) pour oil in
4) close bonnet
It will probably be worthwhile me doing this job so that I am better prepared if the cable snaps in the middle of nowhere!
Freelitres,
If your cable snaps in the middle of nowhere apparently it's a real fiddle to replace it.
Not a job I've done myself but one that's on the list for the next service, over the years mine has stretched and it's at the limit of adjustment now.
Lubricating the cable will make the whole system smoother and also prolong the life of the cable.
If you allow three to four hours that should see the job done.
If your cable snaps in the middle of nowhere apparently it's a real fiddle to replace it.
Not a job I've done myself but one that's on the list for the next service, over the years mine has stretched and it's at the limit of adjustment now.
Lubricating the cable will make the whole system smoother and also prolong the life of the cable.
If you allow three to four hours that should see the job done.
Gents, I used to carry a replacement 'inner' cable, available from Clever Trevor/Racetech - IIRC.
The 'kit' comes with the nipple for the accelerator pedal already soldered on, but with an allen key 'clamp' arrangment for the throttle butterfly end. Replacement at the roadside is simply feeding the new inner cable through the existing outer and sliding the allen clamp over the cable and tightening at the desired position.
I guess any lub' can be applied as you slide it in (Ooo-er!) from the pedal end.....Or call the RAC as I did when mine snapped on a bank holiday Monday 3/4 years ago. But, I did then get the spare as above.
Nick
The 'kit' comes with the nipple for the accelerator pedal already soldered on, but with an allen key 'clamp' arrangment for the throttle butterfly end. Replacement at the roadside is simply feeding the new inner cable through the existing outer and sliding the allen clamp over the cable and tightening at the desired position.
I guess any lub' can be applied as you slide it in (Ooo-er!) from the pedal end.....Or call the RAC as I did when mine snapped on a bank holiday Monday 3/4 years ago. But, I did then get the spare as above.
Nick
Guys,
I am about to try this out. A few more questions -
Do you need any special tools to get that bracket off?
How do you know when the oil has made its way down the cable? Do you look out for drips where it meets the pedal?
Also, wold it be better to use that 3-in-1 oil stuff rather than engine oil for this job?
Thanks
I am about to try this out. A few more questions -
Do you need any special tools to get that bracket off?
How do you know when the oil has made its way down the cable? Do you look out for drips where it meets the pedal?
Also, wold it be better to use that 3-in-1 oil stuff rather than engine oil for this job?
Thanks
Just had a quick poke around, another couple of questions:
I only have a few cheap tools and I noticed that the "9mm" spanner is too small and the "10 mm" spanner/socket is too large. Do I need an imperial tool set?
How do you get to the 2 lower screws as it seems impossible to get a spanner down there.
Thanks
I only have a few cheap tools and I noticed that the "9mm" spanner is too small and the "10 mm" spanner/socket is too large. Do I need an imperial tool set?
How do you get to the 2 lower screws as it seems impossible to get a spanner down there.
Thanks
Freelitres.
No special tools but getting to all the retaining bolts is fiddly so be prepared for small incrimental turns and try not to drop the spanner ( stating the obvious - sorry ).
I used a slim Britool spanner, I doubt you would get a socket in there unless you have a small set with a universal joint.
I used 3 in 1 oil just because it flows easily and yes you will know when the job is done because it drips through at the other end.
No special tools but getting to all the retaining bolts is fiddly so be prepared for small incrimental turns and try not to drop the spanner ( stating the obvious - sorry ).
I used a slim Britool spanner, I doubt you would get a socket in there unless you have a small set with a universal joint.
I used 3 in 1 oil just because it flows easily and yes you will know when the job is done because it drips through at the other end.
P400PLS said:
Freelitres.
No special tools but getting to all the retaining bolts is fiddly so be prepared for small incrimental turns and try not to drop the spanner ( stating the obvious - sorry ).
I used a slim Britool spanner, I doubt you would get a socket in there unless you have a small set with a universal joint.
I used 3 in 1 oil just because it flows easily and yes you will know when the job is done because it drips through at the other end.
Cheers P400,No special tools but getting to all the retaining bolts is fiddly so be prepared for small incrimental turns and try not to drop the spanner ( stating the obvious - sorry ).
I used a slim Britool spanner, I doubt you would get a socket in there unless you have a small set with a universal joint.
I used 3 in 1 oil just because it flows easily and yes you will know when the job is done because it drips through at the other end.
Are those retaining bolts an imperial size? I dont suppose you know exactly which size? I need to pop out to get a tool kit and I want to make sure my kit has the right tool in!
ETA - Oops, you already answered! thanks
- UPDATED*
I have a lot more confidence in the travel of the pedal now and I know when I am at full throttle. Before it seemed to get stiffer near full throttle and I always backed off. Really pleased I did it.
In addition to P400PLS's excellent photos/instructions, I would like to add the following points for anyone else that might try it.
1) Before you start, make sure you lay some newspaper in the driver’s foot well under the pedals. When the oil eventually emerges near the pedals, it flushes out a load of dirty gunk from inside the cable sleeve. Luckily, I did anticipate this and I laid out some paper out to catch it!
2) To get to the lower bracket retaining screws I found that the socket set spinner handle (the thing that looks like a screwdriver with a socket attachment on the end) was the perfect tool when fed in from the windscreen side. Without this I couldn't complete the job as it was too tight to get any movement on the spanner. A slimmer profile spanner may have been able to slip down the front gap though.
3) The blutac funnel worked a treat. I filled the funnel with 3-in-1, got in the car and gave the pedal a few pumps which helped get the oil down the sleeve. A tip though - I wouldn't leave the oil in the funnel over night though. I think the oil was beginning to act like a solvent for the blutac as the inner funnel surface was starting to get very tacky/dissolve.
4) When you go for a drive to test your handy-work, make sure you keep that newspaper under the pedals, as excess oil will continue to flow out near the pedals for the first few miles.
The car feels great now though - well worth it!
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