Hot start problems/new Toad immobiliser

[HaywooS]

I had a new Toad alarm/immobiliser fitted as the original one was constantly giving problems, but now experience what appears to be the dreaded hot start problems. Car starts fine first thing but if I go on a run and stop, it won't start-fuel pump primes then a click from the solenoid but no engine turning. If I leave the car to cool down it starts fine. I have spoken to Richard at RT Racing in Sheffield who did the work and he tells me that it probably is the starter motor jamming but I am not convinced. Has anybody had any similar experience with Toad alarms as I am convinced that the problem is something to do with the new fitment. The car has never had hot start prtoblems before as the mod had been fitted before I bought it and I wondered if during the fitting, the mod had been removed to accomodate the new alarm system.

[finestjammy]

I had a TOAD alarm fitted at RT Racing too. I get a VERY occasional starting issue where the starter turns once slowly and then stops, try it once more and it's fine. No problems most of the time though.

I presume you can hear the fuel pump priming?


EDIT
Must read posts properly, just spotted that you state the fuel pump primes.

[vipernick]

I have the identical problem on a Toad immobiliser. It has left me stranded. Did the problem get resolved? Appreciate a reply!

[s p a c e m a n]

As I have understood it the original loom uses relays that are inside the standard immobiliser to control the starter motor, if you replace that do you then have to add new relays to the loom? Anyone?

[Julesprivate]

It does (unfortunately) depend how the TOAD system was fitted. I have an AI605 fitted, as they are Thatcham approved they have dual immobiliser circuits in them so they can (and should) replace the OEM immobiliser.

Having said that, it does depend on the installer as the choice is:

1) Remove the OEM immobiliser and replace it with the new unit
2) Put the new one in series (bad idea)
3) Put the new one in parallel

1 and 3 will give the same result, 2 just introduces another failure point but it wouldn't surprise me if some people did it that way...

[vipernick]

Thanks for the feedback.

My vehicle (which is a special) doesn't have a OEM unit, the toad is stand alone. It was fitted perfessionally in 2008 with certificate.

Since I bought the car where has always been some under lying problem with starting from hot now cold. Some days it will start with no problem other day's not, whether hot or cold. Bit of a lottery! Great when you are on the way to work!

Has anyone a wiring diagram? It is a toad Stirling touch unit.

I have added an extra power feed to the fuel pump which does help to get the car into live when a problem is experienced.

The problems I have experienced

Engine turning over not starting

Just a click from a solenoid and nothing

Or it starts....

[K4TRV]

Here's a link for Hot Start Issues: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Plus, here's the Hot-Start Kit link: http://www.clarion-service.co.uk/cs/Hot_Start_Kit....

HTH's ?

T

[Julesprivate]

I THINK this is the right diagram:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/gallery/a540139-im...

Let me know if it isn't (i.e. yours looks nothing like that), if it is the correct one then used the coil cutoff to control the fuel pump which is perfectly fine..

red = permanent 12v+
orange = ignition 12v+ (must be live whilst cranking)
green = 2 x earths, should be seperately mounted (i.e not used together on one screw!)
white tagged pair = fuel pump or coil
blue tagged pair = starter motor exciter

Where it says "tagged pair" they are probably black wires, but when installingt hey have either green or white tags on the pairs to indicate their use...

Edited by Julesprivate on Tuesday 9th July 10:44

Edited by Julesprivate on Tuesday 9th July 10:45

[vipernick]

Big thanks for the replies...I will start investigating this weekend!!