Brake master cylinder, whats it off.
Discussion
I have removed the Master Cylinder and want to replace the seals. I have the cylinder apart and its 22.2mm bore.
The car is a 1998 4ltr. There are no stamps or marks on the cylinder, just that it has a ford resevoir. Having had a look on the web I see that the XR2 has a 22.2mm bore. Is this the cylinder that TVR used or was it some other? does anyone know.
The car is a 1998 4ltr. There are no stamps or marks on the cylinder, just that it has a ford resevoir. Having had a look on the web I see that the XR2 has a 22.2mm bore. Is this the cylinder that TVR used or was it some other? does anyone know.
Simon says said:
Not meaning to piss on your cornflakes chaps
but for the work involved and the fact its brakes (and not in that order) don't think I would re-seal an iron brake master cylinder
clutch master then yes no problem 
Agreed. I bought a new master cylinder from brakeparts - about £80 delivered and a whole lot more piece of mind.


Barkychoc said:
Simon says said:
Not meaning to piss on your cornflakes chaps
but for the work involved and the fact its brakes (and not in that order) don't think I would re-seal an iron brake master cylinder
clutch master then yes no problem 
Agreed. I bought a new master cylinder from brakeparts - about £80 delivered and a whole lot more piece of mind.





I've got to get the ruddy thing out yet.
Here's what I've done so far
Clutch drained at slave cylinder and pipe disconnected from master
brake reservoir drained and sealant removed
4 bolts removed on upper wing
Drivers seat out and steering wheel off
can someone confirm what i think are the next steps because Mr Heath talks only about taking the easy way out and getting it done, rather than how we can do it ourselves.
disconnect the clutch and brake pedals - clevis pins to remove while stamding on my head, hope thats not difficult?
Then do I need to undo the brake lines at the bulkhead above the drivers vent?
Wiggle the whole lot out past the steering somehow then separate on the bench - or do i have to separate it to get it out of the footwell.
fyi: I'm photographing this as I go and will write it up for future reference since its not covered in the bible and I can find very little about it here.
Here's what I've done so far
Clutch drained at slave cylinder and pipe disconnected from master
brake reservoir drained and sealant removed
4 bolts removed on upper wing
Drivers seat out and steering wheel off
can someone confirm what i think are the next steps because Mr Heath talks only about taking the easy way out and getting it done, rather than how we can do it ourselves.
disconnect the clutch and brake pedals - clevis pins to remove while stamding on my head, hope thats not difficult?
Then do I need to undo the brake lines at the bulkhead above the drivers vent?
Wiggle the whole lot out past the steering somehow then separate on the bench - or do i have to separate it to get it out of the footwell.
fyi: I'm photographing this as I go and will write it up for future reference since its not covered in the bible and I can find very little about it here.
Bugger off 

seriously, how the hell does it all come out past the steering column?
I take your point about the seals though so for the futute is there a trick or mod which will allow you to get the clutch master out through the inspection hole? I don't think you can get to the bottom bolt can you?


seriously, how the hell does it all come out past the steering column?
I take your point about the seals though so for the futute is there a trick or mod which will allow you to get the clutch master out through the inspection hole? I don't think you can get to the bottom bolt can you?
Barreti said:
Bugger off 

seriously, how the hell does it all come out past the steering column?
I take your point about the seals though so for the futute is there a trick or mod which will allow you to get the clutch master out through the inspection hole? I don't think you can get to the bottom bolt can you?
To be honest Ian i have yet to remove the servo or brake master and re-sealing the clutch master can be done in situ 

seriously, how the hell does it all come out past the steering column?
I take your point about the seals though so for the futute is there a trick or mod which will allow you to get the clutch master out through the inspection hole? I don't think you can get to the bottom bolt can you?


Barreti said:
Then do I need to undo the brake lines at the bulkhead above the drivers vent?
That is what I did.Barreti said:
or do i have to separate it to get it out of the footwell.
I undid the 2 bolts that hold the master cylinder onto the Servo and then wiggled the Master Cylinder plus the copper pipes connected to it out into the drivers foot well.I'm not sure its the best way but that is how I got the Master Cylinder out.
I think you're right Pink Floyd, and I really don't want to do that if I can avoid it.
In the drivers footwell I can see 6 bolts.
2 are for the clutch master
If I can get the clutch master out of the way I might then be able to get to the brake master.
I'm not sure what the other 4 are yet but they are in a square so look like a set.
Incidentally, contrary to the bible, the clutch pedal is NOT attached to the rod via clevis pin on my '92 car. The rod is bolted directly to the loop attached to the pedal arm. I'll photograph it when I'm in there next but this might help anyone reading in future
Clutch master -rod---NC/
Where N is the lock nut
C is the loop which slides around and pins to the clutch pedal arm depicted by /
By completely undoing N you can pull the rod off the whole thing.
Thats where I'm at now. In theory if I can get the two bolts off now the clutch master will come out through the inspection hole. This is difficult as they are nut inside and bolt head out in the wing.
I'm hoping then I might be able to see more of the brake master.
In the drivers footwell I can see 6 bolts.
2 are for the clutch master
If I can get the clutch master out of the way I might then be able to get to the brake master.
I'm not sure what the other 4 are yet but they are in a square so look like a set.
Incidentally, contrary to the bible, the clutch pedal is NOT attached to the rod via clevis pin on my '92 car. The rod is bolted directly to the loop attached to the pedal arm. I'll photograph it when I'm in there next but this might help anyone reading in future
Clutch master -rod---NC/
Where N is the lock nut
C is the loop which slides around and pins to the clutch pedal arm depicted by /
By completely undoing N you can pull the rod off the whole thing.
Thats where I'm at now. In theory if I can get the two bolts off now the clutch master will come out through the inspection hole. This is difficult as they are nut inside and bolt head out in the wing.
I'm hoping then I might be able to see more of the brake master.
Clutch master is out.
There is not a cat in hells chance of getting at the brake master through the inspection hole.
Oh, heres a tip for budding spanner weilders.
When you have the clutch master out, DON'T push the rod in out of curiosity.
I'm now bathing an eye after the contents of the cylinder spat out through the oilway.
Feck me it came keen.
Lunch.
There is not a cat in hells chance of getting at the brake master through the inspection hole.
Oh, heres a tip for budding spanner weilders.
When you have the clutch master out, DON'T push the rod in out of curiosity.
I'm now bathing an eye after the contents of the cylinder spat out through the oilway.
Feck me it came keen.
Lunch.
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