Chimaera Heater Issue
Discussion
Perhaps I am being dense here but with the funnel in the swirl pot, how do you fill it to the brim (and keep filling the funnel) without it all leaking out around the top of the swirl pot. Only solution I can see is to either jam it in the pot hard or temporarily seal it in. Either way you have the contents of the funnel all over the floor when you remove it at the end of the process, if you have kept it topped up.
Otherwise it sounds like a very good solution for bleeding Dave. (That's 'bleeding - Dave' not 'bleeding Dave')
Otherwise it sounds like a very good solution for bleeding Dave. (That's 'bleeding - Dave' not 'bleeding Dave')
skiver said:
Quietlybonkers said:
Perhaps I am being dense too and need to lift that long fibreglass panel in front of the windscreen, but I thought my swirl pot had a blue cap.....? Not a brass plug.
Expansion tank usually has a blue cap; swirl pot threaded inside for a plug.
OK, so I replaced coolant screw cap and thermostat (correct one). Engine now properly pressurised and running at correct temperature. Lots of heat when idling but very little when on the move. I'm informed that it can't be air in system as heater is feed by water pump.
Freezing my nuts off! Any Sane ideas very welcome.
Freezing my nuts off! Any Sane ideas very welcome.
Hi Tony,
The heater sits horizontal at the highest point in the cooling system so air should not be ruled out. My car is a pre-serp and there is a single bleed screw on the corner of the radiator. I jacked up the front of the car to get the bleed screw at a similar level to the heater and managed to get at least a pint more water into the system.
Using the Rover guage, I was also able to confirm that the ecu temperature reading of the water temp was a lot more consistent and higher reading than the dashboard
Finally , I found a split in the hose that brings fresh air into the dashboard vents. Fixing that has made a big difference to the cabin temperature, especially around the legs!
The heater sits horizontal at the highest point in the cooling system so air should not be ruled out. My car is a pre-serp and there is a single bleed screw on the corner of the radiator. I jacked up the front of the car to get the bleed screw at a similar level to the heater and managed to get at least a pint more water into the system.
Using the Rover guage, I was also able to confirm that the ecu temperature reading of the water temp was a lot more consistent and higher reading than the dashboard
Finally , I found a split in the hose that brings fresh air into the dashboard vents. Fixing that has made a big difference to the cabin temperature, especially around the legs!
TV8 said:
Hi Tony,
The heater sits horizontal at the highest point in the cooling system so air should not be ruled out. My car is a pre-serp and there is a single bleed screw on the corner of the radiator. I jacked up the front of the car to get the bleed screw at a similar level to the heater and managed to get at least a pint more water into the system.
Using the Rover guage, I was also able to confirm that the ecu temperature reading of the water temp was a lot more consistent and higher reading than the dashboard
^^^ THIS ^^^^The heater sits horizontal at the highest point in the cooling system so air should not be ruled out. My car is a pre-serp and there is a single bleed screw on the corner of the radiator. I jacked up the front of the car to get the bleed screw at a similar level to the heater and managed to get at least a pint more water into the system.
Using the Rover guage, I was also able to confirm that the ecu temperature reading of the water temp was a lot more consistent and higher reading than the dashboard
Your problem is almost certainly trapped air in the heater.
Your heater will only generate meaningful heat if there is solid column of hot coolant passing through it.
The water pump in a car is designed to promote flow, not generate pressure.
By rights it would be more accurate to call it a "water stirrer" rather than a pump.
It could never drive out a column of trapped air, even if the swirl pot/expansion tank caps are removed.
You need some help from gravity to do that, & a nice header of coolant in a funnel will help too, as will lifting the front of the car up.
Listen to the advise and follow the bleeding methods described on here.
I was out all day yesterday, driving from client to client following a colleague in his new Golf.
Apparently the ambient temperature gauge in the Golf showed -4 all day long, the TVR kept me toasty warm, even at sustained high cruising speeds.
Conclusive proof there is absolutely nothing wrong with the heater fitted in a Chimaera, assuming that is you have coolant passing through not a column of trapped air.
Get it bled (PROPERLY), & get warm.
It's too efin cold for no heater mate
My heater always puts out warm air but it can vary from hand melting (you literally cannot keep your hand in the little well in front of the gear stick) to more of a warm breeze, dependent upon vehicle speed. At this time of year (ice indicator on), when cruising at 60-70, the temp stays in the 60-70 range (dash gauge) and only warm breeze but enough to keep cab warm but if stopped or slow traffic, the temp will rise to 70-75 and I have to back off the control dial a third towards the cold setting.
Well you lot have made my day with your tremendous help and feedback. Following your advice I took the car to a mates garage this morning and he used the ramp to lift the front up and topped up the swirl tank whilst giving it a few revs. Lots of bubbles and hey presto, hot air! I have a 500 mile round trip this weekend so will take it back next week and repeat the process just to make sure all air is out the system. He used a thermal heat measuring device and whilst the gauge reads around 85 the true temp is actually 66.
Once again thank to you all. Its worth having a TVR just for the privalage of being associated with great guys like you!
Tony
Once again thank to you all. Its worth having a TVR just for the privalage of being associated with great guys like you!
Tony
tonyperry57 said:
Well you lot have made my day with your tremendous help and feedback. Following your advice I took the car to a mates garage this morning and he used the ramp to lift the front up and topped up the swirl tank whilst giving it a few revs. Lots of bubbles and hey presto, hot air! I have a 500 mile round trip this weekend so will take it back next week and repeat the process just to make sure all air is out the system. He used a thermal heat measuring device and whilst the gauge reads around 85 the true temp is actually 66.
Once again thank to you all. Its worth having a TVR just for the privalage of being associated with great guys like you!
Tony
Once again thank to you all. Its worth having a TVR just for the privalage of being associated with great guys like you!
Tony
Anyone know offhand what thread is on the "ineffective" TVR sender and what thread is on the unused Range Rover sender?
Just wondering whether they could be swapped over so that the correct sender for the gauge is still used and you don't have to correct with a trimming resistor as it seems like the characteristics of the TVR gauge and the rangie sender are different...
Phil
Just wondering whether they could be swapped over so that the correct sender for the gauge is still used and you don't have to correct with a trimming resistor as it seems like the characteristics of the TVR gauge and the rangie sender are different...
Phil
Bassfiend said:
Anyone know offhand what thread is on the "ineffective" TVR sender and what thread is on the unused Range Rover sender?
Just wondering whether they could be swapped over so that the correct sender for the gauge is still used and you don't have to correct with a trimming resistor as it seems like the characteristics of the TVR gauge and the rangie sender are different...
Phil
You're going to struggle with that one Phil.Just wondering whether they could be swapped over so that the correct sender for the gauge is still used and you don't have to correct with a trimming resistor as it seems like the characteristics of the TVR gauge and the rangie sender are different...
Phil
It's exactly why TVR created the adapter, & what a crappy idea that was.
I recommend just using the RR sender & fitting the resistor, you've got the advantage of the Canems software so you can trim it so it's spot on.
Just out of interest - had an email back from ETB instruments and here's the pertinent part for here...
"Water temp sensor:-
The sensors you list would not work with the gauges you have. The original temp sensor was an M14x1.5mm thread that TVR placed at a dead end in some location on the engine...
5/8"UNF is however the standard Rover thread and a better position for it. We have a very limited number of 1/8"NPTF sensors (Part # 47 3208) (£12.00 +VAT) that with a 5/8"UNF adapter (£3.50 +VAT) could fit in the original Rover temp sensor location, and match the gauge."
I also asked them about repairing my speedo and they told me:
"We can repair the speedometers of that age - but it is difficult to quote a cost until we actually look at the unit itself. The likely cost of the repair would be roughly £35 +VAT and delivery. If you can supply some copies of past MOTs that show recorded mileage along with an estimate of the mileage total, we can re-install the mileage and replace the internal battery backup."
All seems very positive to me.
Phil
"Water temp sensor:-
The sensors you list would not work with the gauges you have. The original temp sensor was an M14x1.5mm thread that TVR placed at a dead end in some location on the engine...
5/8"UNF is however the standard Rover thread and a better position for it. We have a very limited number of 1/8"NPTF sensors (Part # 47 3208) (£12.00 +VAT) that with a 5/8"UNF adapter (£3.50 +VAT) could fit in the original Rover temp sensor location, and match the gauge."
I also asked them about repairing my speedo and they told me:
"We can repair the speedometers of that age - but it is difficult to quote a cost until we actually look at the unit itself. The likely cost of the repair would be roughly £35 +VAT and delivery. If you can supply some copies of past MOTs that show recorded mileage along with an estimate of the mileage total, we can re-install the mileage and replace the internal battery backup."
All seems very positive to me.
Phil
Message Board | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff