Jaguar S-Type 3.0, what to look out for/check?
Discussion
dme123 said:
Some are reliable, many are pits. Avoid pre 2002 cars. Avoid high mileage cars, they just don't seem to be able to take the mileage. For minimum ballache consider a manual.
Am looking at a June 2000 3.0 V6 manual with 130k on the clock.Would that be considered high mileage on such car with that engine/gearbox?
Chicarito said:
Gibbo205 said:
What's wrong with the rear axles out of interest?
Self destructing rear diffs. I know someone who has had 2 replacement units fitted - along with a couple of gearboxes.But I've had 2 and they drive much better than the equivalent A6 or 5 series, Jaguar have the NVH & ride sorted which the germans don't.
tr7v8 said:
Never heard of diff problems, the gearbox has the same problem all cars fitted with the ZF box has which is they are sealed for life & die at 60-80K, easily solved by a fluid change. Bigger problem with early cars is the Ford derived suspension which goes through bushes & balljoints frequently. The interior is a bit low rent as well, depends what you're comparing it to. Later post 02 cars are much better, a few weaknesses, heater valves being one. They are very sensitive to battery condition & if the battery starts to die can give loads of weird issues.
But I've had 2 and they drive much better than the equivalent A6 or 5 series, Jaguar have the NVH & ride sorted which the germans don't.
Is that just auto box with that issue or manual as well? But I've had 2 and they drive much better than the equivalent A6 or 5 series, Jaguar have the NVH & ride sorted which the germans don't.
If it's manual too what oil does it take and is it an easy job for a mechanic?
I had a 2001 3.0 Auto and ran it from 100K to 140K miles. I liked the interior, much more spacious at the front than the later 'XJ copy' version. No problem with the rear axle or gearbox. But it did fail MOTs with 'excessive play in ball joints' every year.
The main facelift was in 2002; other minor changes such as the rear came in 2004. The front is also more vertical and chunkier.
My 2006 diesel feels more solidly built, but still fails MOTs on suspension every year and is on its third windscreen in two years.
The main facelift was in 2002; other minor changes such as the rear came in 2004. The front is also more vertical and chunkier.
My 2006 diesel feels more solidly built, but still fails MOTs on suspension every year and is on its third windscreen in two years.
Gibbo205 said:
tr7v8 said:
Never heard of diff problems, the gearbox has the same problem all cars fitted with the ZF box has which is they are sealed for life & die at 60-80K, easily solved by a fluid change. Bigger problem with early cars is the Ford derived suspension which goes through bushes & balljoints frequently. The interior is a bit low rent as well, depends what you're comparing it to. Later post 02 cars are much better, a few weaknesses, heater valves being one. They are very sensitive to battery condition & if the battery starts to die can give loads of weird issues.
But I've had 2 and they drive much better than the equivalent A6 or 5 series, Jaguar have the NVH & ride sorted which the germans don't.
Is that just auto box with that issue or manual as well? But I've had 2 and they drive much better than the equivalent A6 or 5 series, Jaguar have the NVH & ride sorted which the germans don't.
If it's manual too what oil does it take and is it an easy job for a mechanic?
Simpo Two said:
I had a 2001 3.0 Auto and ran it from 100K to 140K miles. I liked the interior, much more spacious at the front than the later 'XJ copy' version. No problem with the rear axle or gearbox. But it did fail MOTs with 'excessive play in ball joints' every year.
The main facelift was in 2002; other minor changes such as the rear came in 2004. The front is also more vertical and chunkier.
My 2006 diesel feels more solidly built, but still fails MOTs on suspension every year and is on its third windscreen in two years.
When I inspect / test drive is there anyway of testing suspension / ball joints for the excessive play, as in what are tell tale signs and how much did ball joints cost and to fit please?The main facelift was in 2002; other minor changes such as the rear came in 2004. The front is also more vertical and chunkier.
My 2006 diesel feels more solidly built, but still fails MOTs on suspension every year and is on its third windscreen in two years.
cardigankid said:
If I were you I would find the cleanest nicest driving car you can then take it to a recognised specialist and get them to give it a close inspection. It may cost you a little but it will be cheap in the long run. All cars need money spent on them, some more than others.
Thats the plan, if I get one I shall do the following myself:-Oil change
Air and oil filter change
Spark plugs
Inlet gaskets whilst doing plugs.
Clean throttle body, inlet manifolds etc.
Run it on Vpower.
That should keep engine in tip top shape, then just to check over suspension, electrics etc.
Gibbo205 said:
When I inspect / test drive is there anyway of testing suspension / ball joints for the excessive play, as in what are tell tale signs and how much did ball joints cost and to fit please?
Sorry, I'm not a mechanic so you'd have to get someone to go underneath and wobble them. Each time my S needs a new bush or joint, the part itself is not much but it's always fused/corroded to the next bit so you end up needing a whole vertical bit (like I said I'm not a mechanic). So it usually ends up at about £400 a corner.Made a purchase, got some questions if any of you guys can help please, see thread here:-
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
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