Went to look at an X300 today, got a couple of questions...
Discussion
Hi guys
Thought I'd try in here with a couple of questions about an X300 3.2 Sport I looked at today. Car is up at a dealers for £995, Bodywork is good, rear arches are fine. It sits well and overall looks good. Engine started from cold and was silent with no strange noises, however there were a few issues I'd like advice on.
1.The car wouldn't start unless the gearlever was moved from P to N and back a few times-I take it this is a switch somewhere and is it an easy fix?
2. Theres a clonking from the front end over bumps, I see that shock top mounts are a common problem on these, is there anything else it could be?
3. Temp gauge didn't work-the car did heat up OK so I would assume it is the sender?
4. The exhaust has a blow at the manifold to downpipe joint-is it likely to be cracked and need welded/replaced or is there any common issues?
I'm pretty handy so would tackle the above stuff myself, I just wanted to see if theres anything that could be more serious?
Thanks
Brian
Thought I'd try in here with a couple of questions about an X300 3.2 Sport I looked at today. Car is up at a dealers for £995, Bodywork is good, rear arches are fine. It sits well and overall looks good. Engine started from cold and was silent with no strange noises, however there were a few issues I'd like advice on.
1.The car wouldn't start unless the gearlever was moved from P to N and back a few times-I take it this is a switch somewhere and is it an easy fix?
2. Theres a clonking from the front end over bumps, I see that shock top mounts are a common problem on these, is there anything else it could be?
3. Temp gauge didn't work-the car did heat up OK so I would assume it is the sender?
4. The exhaust has a blow at the manifold to downpipe joint-is it likely to be cracked and need welded/replaced or is there any common issues?
I'm pretty handy so would tackle the above stuff myself, I just wanted to see if theres anything that could be more serious?
Thanks
Brian
dome said:
Hi guys
Thought I'd try in here with a couple of questions about an X300 3.2 Sport I looked at today. Car is up at a dealers for £995, Bodywork is good, rear arches are fine. It sits well and overall looks good. Engine started from cold and was silent with no strange noises, however there were a few issues I'd like advice on.
1.The car wouldn't start unless the gearlever was moved from P to N and back a few times-I take it this is a switch somewhere and is it an easy fix?
2. Theres a clonking from the front end over bumps, I see that shock top mounts are a common problem on these, is there anything else it could be?
3. Temp gauge didn't work-the car did heat up OK so I would assume it is the sender?
4. The exhaust has a blow at the manifold to downpipe joint-is it likely to be cracked and need welded/replaced or is there any common issues?
I'm pretty handy so would tackle the above stuff myself, I just wanted to see if theres anything that could be more serious?
Thanks
Brian
Not starting between p and n usually suggests the inhibit switch on the j gate needs replacing or cleaning.Thought I'd try in here with a couple of questions about an X300 3.2 Sport I looked at today. Car is up at a dealers for £995, Bodywork is good, rear arches are fine. It sits well and overall looks good. Engine started from cold and was silent with no strange noises, however there were a few issues I'd like advice on.
1.The car wouldn't start unless the gearlever was moved from P to N and back a few times-I take it this is a switch somewhere and is it an easy fix?
2. Theres a clonking from the front end over bumps, I see that shock top mounts are a common problem on these, is there anything else it could be?
3. Temp gauge didn't work-the car did heat up OK so I would assume it is the sender?
4. The exhaust has a blow at the manifold to downpipe joint-is it likely to be cracked and need welded/replaced or is there any common issues?
I'm pretty handy so would tackle the above stuff myself, I just wanted to see if theres anything that could be more serious?
Thanks
Brian
Clonking over bumps could be top shock mounts,bottom shock mounts,worn ball joints,worn anti roll bar bushes, or top or bottom wishbone bushes or track rod ends. Only way to be sure is to have a look. Any work on lower wishbone means you must have the correct spring compressor which can be hired from the jec.
Temp gauge appearing to not work may well be failed thermostat
Exhaust manifold cracking is a fairly common problem on x300 cars. Can be welded up or source s/h from scrapyard
Check all over for rust. Sills, bottom of doors and wings, round front and rear screens,sill closing panels, front bulkhead and behind front shocks
dome said:
Hi guys
Thought I'd try in here with a couple of questions about an X300 3.2 Sport I looked at today. Car is up at a dealers for £995, Bodywork is good, rear arches are fine. It sits well and overall looks good. Engine started from cold and was silent with no strange noises, however there were a few issues I'd like advice on.
1.The car wouldn't start unless the gearlever was moved from P to N and back a few times-I take it this is a switch somewhere and is it an easy fix?
2. Theres a clonking from the front end over bumps, I see that shock top mounts are a common problem on these, is there anything else it could be?
3. Temp gauge didn't work-the car did heat up OK so I would assume it is the sender?
4. The exhaust has a blow at the manifold to downpipe joint-is it likely to be cracked and need welded/replaced or is there any common issues?
I'm pretty handy so would tackle the above stuff myself, I just wanted to see if theres anything that could be more serious?
Thanks
Brian
Walk away. You're just buying someone else's problems. A grand for that old bag of nails?Thought I'd try in here with a couple of questions about an X300 3.2 Sport I looked at today. Car is up at a dealers for £995, Bodywork is good, rear arches are fine. It sits well and overall looks good. Engine started from cold and was silent with no strange noises, however there were a few issues I'd like advice on.
1.The car wouldn't start unless the gearlever was moved from P to N and back a few times-I take it this is a switch somewhere and is it an easy fix?
2. Theres a clonking from the front end over bumps, I see that shock top mounts are a common problem on these, is there anything else it could be?
3. Temp gauge didn't work-the car did heat up OK so I would assume it is the sender?
4. The exhaust has a blow at the manifold to downpipe joint-is it likely to be cracked and need welded/replaced or is there any common issues?
I'm pretty handy so would tackle the above stuff myself, I just wanted to see if theres anything that could be more serious?
Thanks
Brian
Plenty of good examples about. And they'll be cheaper.
Doesn't sound too bad a car-very good bodywork & engine is a good starting point anyway.
The starting issue is almost certainly the start inhibit switch-may be worn out or lack of use has glazed over the contacts-either replace or 'work' the switch by moving the gearlever back & forth reasonably quickly to 'clean' the contacts. Not a big fix.
Temp gauge may be sender unit or thermostat-does the heater blow normal hot air when the engine's warmed up? Again, not a big thing to fix really.
Suspension clonk could be several things as already advised, although front lower balljoints often wear out due to the stress they're under supporting the front-end. Not too bad a job if you can break the balljoint taper easily.
Exhaust manifold/downpipe problem shouldn't be a big thing to fix-loads of spares on ebay & from the Jag breakers anyway if you did need to replace the manifold etc.
Very few cheap old cars will be perfect with no faults, so it's just a case of weighing up the good points & the severity of the bad points. Good bodywork & a good engine are major plus points, so I think it's still worth consideration as the other faults are not major deal-breakers & can be dealt with at leisure once you've got the car.
You could easily spend a grand on a ratty old hatchback, so getting a big Jag for the same money that just needs a few things tidying up is pretty good really. If you're careful & do your homework when shoopping for spare parts, you can maintain these big old bruisers for not that much outlay really
The starting issue is almost certainly the start inhibit switch-may be worn out or lack of use has glazed over the contacts-either replace or 'work' the switch by moving the gearlever back & forth reasonably quickly to 'clean' the contacts. Not a big fix.
Temp gauge may be sender unit or thermostat-does the heater blow normal hot air when the engine's warmed up? Again, not a big thing to fix really.
Suspension clonk could be several things as already advised, although front lower balljoints often wear out due to the stress they're under supporting the front-end. Not too bad a job if you can break the balljoint taper easily.
Exhaust manifold/downpipe problem shouldn't be a big thing to fix-loads of spares on ebay & from the Jag breakers anyway if you did need to replace the manifold etc.
Very few cheap old cars will be perfect with no faults, so it's just a case of weighing up the good points & the severity of the bad points. Good bodywork & a good engine are major plus points, so I think it's still worth consideration as the other faults are not major deal-breakers & can be dealt with at leisure once you've got the car.
You could easily spend a grand on a ratty old hatchback, so getting a big Jag for the same money that just needs a few things tidying up is pretty good really. If you're careful & do your homework when shoopping for spare parts, you can maintain these big old bruisers for not that much outlay really
non of those issues sound too bad. as has been explained.
in terms of cost, i would say its most important to find an example with good paint and bodywork, with little or no rust. as a rust car with bad paint, will cost more than anything mechanical to put right. considering you can buy a whole engine for a £100 these days.
you will not get a perfect car at £1000, even though x300 are just about at their lowest price ever.
you have to expect to do some sort of work on a 15yr ish old car.
what i would say though, is try and get a 4.0 sovereign or daimler spec. they dont tend to cost much/ any more, but the standard of the interior and extra kit makes them a far superior proposition. will also be easier to sell later. even better get the xjr and have and extra 77bhp to play with
in terms of cost, i would say its most important to find an example with good paint and bodywork, with little or no rust. as a rust car with bad paint, will cost more than anything mechanical to put right. considering you can buy a whole engine for a £100 these days.
you will not get a perfect car at £1000, even though x300 are just about at their lowest price ever.
you have to expect to do some sort of work on a 15yr ish old car.
what i would say though, is try and get a 4.0 sovereign or daimler spec. they dont tend to cost much/ any more, but the standard of the interior and extra kit makes them a far superior proposition. will also be easier to sell later. even better get the xjr and have and extra 77bhp to play with
In April I sold a 1995 3.2 Sport for £1,250. 139,000 miles, no expense spared for 7 years (well the first six of seven anyway).
On sale, there were absolutely no electrical or mechanical problems, and it was fundamentally perfect.
It needed a bit of bodyshop work where I'd scraped the front wing, but other than thaat there was no rust other than a couple of tiny bubbles. Inside, the driver's seat bolster was worn through - standard on Sports - and the headlining was starting to sag - standard on all X300s (and XJ40s for that matter), but a £500 fix.
For your budget, you can get a better one than this. Don't buy someone else's problems.
On sale, there were absolutely no electrical or mechanical problems, and it was fundamentally perfect.
It needed a bit of bodyshop work where I'd scraped the front wing, but other than thaat there was no rust other than a couple of tiny bubbles. Inside, the driver's seat bolster was worn through - standard on Sports - and the headlining was starting to sag - standard on all X300s (and XJ40s for that matter), but a £500 fix.
For your budget, you can get a better one than this. Don't buy someone else's problems.
To be fair Dominic this one sounds better than yours-at least from my point of view as all the things wrong with it I can fix myself. Bodywork I'm no good at. I've emailed the dealer and am waiting to hear back from him, although it turns out he has a non running xjr for a grand too which appeals to my sense of adventure...
Here's the dealers site
http://finance.autoexposure.co.uk/search.cfm?Accou...
Here's the dealers site
http://finance.autoexposure.co.uk/search.cfm?Accou...
SV8Predator said:
being a d
head
fun·da·men·tal (fnd-mntl) n. Something that is an essential or necessary part of a system or object.headEvery fault I described with my car is clearly superficial. I was writing quickly rather than an essay - but the rust, as I said, was a couple of small spots on the roof no more than a couple of millimetres across, which had not changed since I had bought the car in 2005, rather than the wings/arches/sills/doors rust which can be terminal on these. In the important places it was clear - and had it not been, I would have had it dealt with.
The scrape on the front wing was invisible unless you were looking for it, and the paintwork was immaculate otherwise - I had had the boot resprayed when the lacquer started peeling, and the rest was perfect until I scraped it a couple of months before I sold it.
Mechanically, my car needed no work at all. The car the OP describes is broken. There are loads on Ebay in a similar condition "spares or repair" or "needing a quick £xx fix" for £500. That's all I'd pay for the one the OP describes.
Edited by Dominicc01 on Sunday 18th November 11:56
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