Discussion
Hi all,
had a few warning lights "Traction control failure" etc and went to see my local guy in Edgbaston. After checking a few possibilities and replacing the battery it turns out that I need a new ABS pump/module unit. Phoned Jaguar for a price and fell laughing off my chair. Anyone have any thoughts / advice / wisdom on how to resolve this without a new mortgage ?
Best wishes
Tony
had a few warning lights "Traction control failure" etc and went to see my local guy in Edgbaston. After checking a few possibilities and replacing the battery it turns out that I need a new ABS pump/module unit. Phoned Jaguar for a price and fell laughing off my chair. Anyone have any thoughts / advice / wisdom on how to resolve this without a new mortgage ?
Best wishes
Tony
BGH,
I went through this a couple of years ago. It unearthed a mass of info/debate in our club ( www.xkec.co.uk ) - too much to list here. If you are not a member I can thoroughly recommend joining.
Essentially there seems to be a problem with these (expensive) parts burning themselves out if not used ... the check it does on start up can burn a 'memory' in the motor which then shorts (or something like that - sorry not very good at electrickery
) . The modules are matched to the pumps so in most cases when the pump burns out it toasts the module and replacement parts need to be matched in pairs.
Unfortunately I learnt all this after I had to have them done by a dealer ( I was stranded on a course miles away and needed it to pass MOT that week so had to let them do it
) The job is the best part of £2K - I think I had it done for about £1600 in all with Allegiance discount. The two main bits are about £600 from memory .......each!!!!
Before you get to this level, makes sure it is not just a faulty sensor or broken wire on one of the wheel circuits. If it is the pump/module you can get refurbished parts and Elite of Derby will def sort you out and do a good job too for a lot less than I was fleeced. Give them a call.
... and when you do get it done, make sure you activate the pump on regular occasions by setting off the ABS and Trac. It stops it sticking in the same spot and spins the motor to its high rpm. God knows why we should have to do that, but that what my dealer suggested as a tip
... I find a damp car park in the early hours does the trick
Good luck
I went through this a couple of years ago. It unearthed a mass of info/debate in our club ( www.xkec.co.uk ) - too much to list here. If you are not a member I can thoroughly recommend joining.
Essentially there seems to be a problem with these (expensive) parts burning themselves out if not used ... the check it does on start up can burn a 'memory' in the motor which then shorts (or something like that - sorry not very good at electrickery
) . The modules are matched to the pumps so in most cases when the pump burns out it toasts the module and replacement parts need to be matched in pairs. Unfortunately I learnt all this after I had to have them done by a dealer ( I was stranded on a course miles away and needed it to pass MOT that week so had to let them do it
) The job is the best part of £2K - I think I had it done for about £1600 in all with Allegiance discount. The two main bits are about £600 from memory .......each!!!!Before you get to this level, makes sure it is not just a faulty sensor or broken wire on one of the wheel circuits. If it is the pump/module you can get refurbished parts and Elite of Derby will def sort you out and do a good job too for a lot less than I was fleeced. Give them a call.
... and when you do get it done, make sure you activate the pump on regular occasions by setting off the ABS and Trac. It stops it sticking in the same spot and spins the motor to its high rpm. God knows why we should have to do that, but that what my dealer suggested as a tip
... I find a damp car park in the early hours does the trick
Good luck
It's true that an ABS warning light will fail an MOT but I don't see the logic of it. A lot of cars without ABS pass their MOT so a car which is temporarily without ABS should pass it too, imho.
As already advised, check the sensors first - and even try spraying them with WD40 which worked for some people. If desperate to get it through an MOT, your Jag garage might be able to recalibrate the system to give at least a temporary fix.
My last Jag had an ABS warning lamp which would come on two or three times a year, usually when manoeuvring on my gravel driveway, but stayed out 99% of the time and eventually stopped coming on even on the gravel.
As already advised, check the sensors first - and even try spraying them with WD40 which worked for some people. If desperate to get it through an MOT, your Jag garage might be able to recalibrate the system to give at least a temporary fix.
My last Jag had an ABS warning lamp which would come on two or three times a year, usually when manoeuvring on my gravel driveway, but stayed out 99% of the time and eventually stopped coming on even on the gravel.
Thanks chaps.
After a lot of netting about I had a quote of £250 to supply a reconditioned part from JagBreakers in Manchester - but - I will
check all the connections first as all evidence suggests that in about 30% of cases thats all thats required.
However... Since posting this afternoon I now have "Engine coolant Low" warning too which, as I know it's not low, just makes me think
that something electronic is deeply unhappy somewhere.
On the up side the car is ten years old and this is the first thing that I have ever had happen, so, not bad on balance.
Tony
After a lot of netting about I had a quote of £250 to supply a reconditioned part from JagBreakers in Manchester - but - I will
check all the connections first as all evidence suggests that in about 30% of cases thats all thats required.
However... Since posting this afternoon I now have "Engine coolant Low" warning too which, as I know it's not low, just makes me think
that something electronic is deeply unhappy somewhere.
On the up side the car is ten years old and this is the first thing that I have ever had happen, so, not bad on balance.
Tony
That was me.
And it was poor connections on the coolant level warning switch, many circiuts on the XJs and XKs carry such low current that only a tiny amount of moisture or corrosion will cause the connection to fail.
WD 40, or a blast from a hairdryer or airline, or even simply unplugging and re connecting can often solve the problem. And it's cheaper than taking it to a garage, and if it fails to solve the problem you can tell the mechanic that you've already done the first thing he's likley to try.
And it was poor connections on the coolant level warning switch, many circiuts on the XJs and XKs carry such low current that only a tiny amount of moisture or corrosion will cause the connection to fail.
WD 40, or a blast from a hairdryer or airline, or even simply unplugging and re connecting can often solve the problem. And it's cheaper than taking it to a garage, and if it fails to solve the problem you can tell the mechanic that you've already done the first thing he's likley to try.
Hi , just reading about your engine coolant low warning light, just a quickie, are you filling your coolant up to the rim of the chamber, i had this problem a few weeks back, all it took to cure was to make sure the level is up to the rim as this is not the expansion chamber, the expansion chamber is inside the offside front wing, hope this helps >>>andy<<<
The plot thickens...
Thanks for all your replies and advice - on the wheel bearing issue, when I reverse the car there is occasionally (one in ten) a dull "thud / clunk / boom" kind of sound from the rear of the car. Could this add weight to the rear wheel bearing theory (who can guess that I am not a top mechanic)?
Also, after a bit more netting about it seems that the garage I've been using is perhaps not the most reputable and may be happy to do me for a new ECU when actually a bit more research (or honesty) on their part might reveal a mechanical issue as the cause of the Traction / Stability / ABS warnings. The car is ten years old but has only done 34k and 80% of it Motorway.
Is there a way that I (as a non grease monkey) can diagnose a problem with a wheel bearing without taking anything to bits ?
Best wishes
Tony
Thanks for all your replies and advice - on the wheel bearing issue, when I reverse the car there is occasionally (one in ten) a dull "thud / clunk / boom" kind of sound from the rear of the car. Could this add weight to the rear wheel bearing theory (who can guess that I am not a top mechanic)?
Also, after a bit more netting about it seems that the garage I've been using is perhaps not the most reputable and may be happy to do me for a new ECU when actually a bit more research (or honesty) on their part might reveal a mechanical issue as the cause of the Traction / Stability / ABS warnings. The car is ten years old but has only done 34k and 80% of it Motorway.
Is there a way that I (as a non grease monkey) can diagnose a problem with a wheel bearing without taking anything to bits ?
Best wishes
Tony
I worked on Jags for 8 years, left it 2006, so have done lots of work on them old XK8'S. What you need to do regarding the ABS issue is ask the garage who worked on it, (weather they are muppets or not) what was in the fault memory, if its a wheel bearing or somthing mechnical it will say wheel speed sensor and tell you which wheel, NSR for example. Technicians can get sucked in and change a suspected faulty sensor £90 of your hard earned, to find its still the same because the movement in the bearing is making the sensor read funny. Obvioulsy sometimes it is the sensor too but you see what i mean.
If its the ECU it will say "pump"failier, fault code (C1095) it never says ECU failier they dont hold there hands up to anything them modules. If they cant read the fault memory because the modules completely dead, check feed and ground, if you got both ECU, if you missing one find out why.
Last time I did an ECU the unit was about £600 "from jag" and I charged the guy £100 to put it on. Even at jag labour rates wouldnt be more than £250 or so,where the £1600 comments came from are beyond me. Diag time posibly
Regarding coolant low if it turns out not to be the sensor, have an assistance hold the revs up to say 3000rpm while you top up the header tank (water drops when the water pump going a bit faster you see), then put the cap back on quickly before the revs are dropped. Usually does the trick.
If its the ECU it will say "pump"failier, fault code (C1095) it never says ECU failier they dont hold there hands up to anything them modules. If they cant read the fault memory because the modules completely dead, check feed and ground, if you got both ECU, if you missing one find out why.
Last time I did an ECU the unit was about £600 "from jag" and I charged the guy £100 to put it on. Even at jag labour rates wouldnt be more than £250 or so,where the £1600 comments came from are beyond me. Diag time posibly
Regarding coolant low if it turns out not to be the sensor, have an assistance hold the revs up to say 3000rpm while you top up the header tank (water drops when the water pump going a bit faster you see), then put the cap back on quickly before the revs are dropped. Usually does the trick.
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