xk8 shunt!

[jonboy07]

iv been getting quite a big shunt( like being hit by another car from behind) from my 1996 xk8 when im putting her into drive, usually in the mornings( when shes cold) and it usually takes slightly long to engage the gear too, is there a prob or is she just old? thanks

[P700DEE]

Ever changed the gearbox oil ? Sounds like it might be a good idea
Sealed for life so might not be much life left

[NormanD]

P700DEE said:

Ever changed the gearbox oil ? Sounds like it might be a good idea
Sealed for life so might not be much life left

I agree.

Get the oil changed, should then be as good an new.

[jonboy07]

ye i did have the oil done about 5k ago, the garage put dexron in it though, and the gear box is making some noise to, mostly when cold too, just left the oil in after seeing a post on here saying thats its fine, do u think this has caused damage, or would simply putting the right oil in sort it ? thanks

[robocop]

I know a lot of places have used DexronIII as a replacement oil, but it really is not a good long term proposition.

It has a different viscosity of the recommended Esso LT71141 (ZF XK8 G'box) and will not have the same properties in the Torque Converter and may effect your gearbox.

Read about my experience here :- http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=489...

I would say as a first step, change to the recommended ESSO oil (you will need to do this a couple of times to get rid of most of the Dexron as there is no easy way to get it out of the TC), change the filter too, then run it and see if the problem persists.

Good luck.

[jonboy07]

ye thanks for that, gonna change the oil when i get paid, hope its not fried lol

[sparky35uk]

I almost cringed at your post saying DextronIII fluid had been used! Having had gearbox troubles myself on an XJ8 I would never use anything else except the Esso fluid.
These boxes seem very sensitive and if going to all that trouble of an oil change, you must use the correct stuff! Also change the filter again too.
There are many forums about this issue, and the majority say that the Dextron fluid does NOT work in the long term and you'd be lucky for it to last 10,000 miles.
It sounds like that's where you are with this.....change the oil again & good luck!

[jonboy07]

ye, iv done about 6k-ish, gonna get the oil changed next week, ill let know how i get on, just hoped its not goosed! thanks

[jonboy07]

my garage is having trouble finding the esso fluid, anyone know where to sourse it from? thanks

[NormanD]

jonboy07 said:

my garage is having trouble finding the esso fluid, anyone know where to sourse it from? thanks

Mercedes Benz a lot cheaper than Jaguar

[robocop]

NormanD said:

jonboy07 said:

my garage is having trouble finding the esso fluid, anyone know where to sourse it from? thanks

Mercedes Benz a lot cheaper than Jaguar

Norm - the Merc gearbox uses a different Shell oil I think.

Jonboy,

Try www.northwiltslubricants.co.uk and ask for Barry

Hmmm The website does not seem to be working at the moment, try calling on 01249 811003

Rgds
Simon

[jonboy07]

cheers guys, can anyone talk ( write lol) me through the proses of changing the oil, thanks

[Jaguar steve]

jonboy07 said:

cheers guys, can anyone talk ( write lol) me through the proses of changing the oil, thanks

'Fraid it's not an easy DIY operation.

You'll need the car safely supported, perfectly level and stone cold.

Locate the filler/level check plug on the os of the gearbox. Check it will undo. Remove the sump drain plug and when the oil's stopped draining remove the sump and internal oil filter. Make sure everything is spotlessly clean. Fit a new filter and replace the sump.

Remove the filler/level plug and initially fill the box until oil runs out of the filler hole. Start the engine and slowly cycle the gear selector lever through R N D, at the same time filling with more oil. After no more than a couple of minuites swich off and allow any surplus oil to drain. This has to be done quickly as the gearbox rapidly heats up and the oil level is only correct on the filler/level check hole when it's cold.

Replace the filler plug. Ideally you should repeat the final R N D fill and level check again once the box is cold just to make sure.

Suggest you take it to an indy and get a price for the job. Shouldn't be more than a couple of hours labour.

[robocop]

Jonboy,

If you have Dexron in yours I would do as Steve says above, but dont change the filter on the first drain as you only get about 60-75% out on a drain and you want to get as much Esso LT in it as possible without a total strip-down.

Drive it a while and then change the oil again as described above. Again not changing the filter.

Than change it again a while later - by now it should look very close to the golden Esso colour and less like the red of Dexron III - this time you can change the filter. By then you should have got rid of as much DIII as is possible.

If you get the large container of Esso LT (about £100) you can do about 5 changes - worth it rather than damage your gearbox with DexronIII.

Good luck

[Ordinary Bloke]

jonboy07 said:

...after seeing a post on here saying thats its fine...

So not this thread, then?

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

[ultegra]

Here:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1052-amsoil-synthetic-...



AMSOIL Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) exceeds the performance requirements for domestic and foreign automatic transmission fluid applications. AMSOIL ATF provides automatic transmissions, power steering units and hydraulic equipment with excellent lubricating protection and better performance over a wider temperature range than conventional automatic transmission fluids.

APPLICATIONS
AMSOIL Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid is completely compatible with other synthetic and petroleum automatic transmission fluids. AMSOIL ATF is a universal, multi-functional fluid that greatly reduces the need for specialized fluid inventories and the possibilities of misapplication. AMSOIL ATF is recommended for transmission, hydraulic and other applications requiring any of the following specifications:

GM DEXRON® II & III
Ford MERCON®, MERCON® V
Chrysler ATF+ through ATF+4®
Honda Z-1 (Not for use in CVT transmissions)
Toyota Type T and T-IV
Mitsubishi/Hyundai Diamond SP II & III
Allison C-3, C-4
Caterpillar TO-2
Voith G607, G1363
ZF TE-ML 14A, 14B & 14C
Mercedes Benz 236.1, 236.2, 236.6, 236.7, 236.9
BMW 7045E
JWS 3309
Vickers I-286S & M-2950S
LT 71141 (ESSO)
Nissan Matic D
Excellent for power steering units that use ATF.

Not for use in CVT transmissions.

Edited by ultegra on Tuesday 4th November 23:40

Edited by ultegra on Tuesday 4th November 23:42

[jonboy07]

tanks for the info guys. just got my oil through, £130 for 20L , if i can remember correctly, last time it was changed, only about 4-5 litres came out is that about right? im told it holds about 10L( please excuse if i dont have a clue, not used to auto boxes lol) THANKS GUYS

[jonboy07]

had the ghange done, there's a noticable improvment, thanks for the posts, want to do the diff oil too, anyone know what kind and how much i need? thanks again

[sparky35uk]

You should get out about 6-7 litres of oil on draining fully, the remainder stays up around the torque converter.

On re-filling, you'll probably use about 8 litres (I did on mine!) as with the 'fill till overflow' technique, you obviously loose some. A mucky job, but well worth it.

p.s. hope you got the Esso oil !! - I also got mine from Northwilts - very helpful. See link above.

[Jaguar steve]

jonboy07 said:

had the ghange done, there's a noticable improvment, thanks for the posts, want to do the diff oil too, anyone know what kind and how much i need? thanks again

You'll need about 2.0 litres. I'd use a good quality API GL5 fully synthetic such as Morris Lubricants Lodexol 75/90 or similar spec.

You need to extract the old oil out through the filler hole - there's no drain plug. If you have Sports suspension fitted you will need to remove the rear antiroll bar to access the filler plug. Use a vacuum pump or oil extractor - try a yacht chandlers - extract pumps are common in boatyworld or make your own using an industrial vacuum cleaner, lots of masking tape and some thin tubing.

Naturally you'll ignore the risk of an oil mist explosion when using an unprotected electric motor and concentrate on the task in hand.

IMO change the oil twice. Change it once, go for a drive and then do it again. You won't believe the st that comes out the first time.

Use a funnel and length of garden hose pipe to refill - far easier than grovelling about under the car trying to squeeze oil out of a bottle. While you're underneath clean the 4 grease nipples on the driveshafts and pump the UJ's full with LM grease 'till clean grease appears from all the joint flanges. Clean all the old expelled grease off - don't leave it to collect load of crap.

stty job but well worth doing.