Rotational squeak from diff
Discussion
Hi,
I have picked up a constant squeaking sound from the rear end of my 1998 XJR.
It is nothing around the brakes / handbrake friction areas, I have a feeling that it could be coming from the diff which has slight seepage and is then acoustically transmitting outwards down the shafts.
Anyone had this before and what recommendations do you have for cure please ?
Incidentally, I last reported that my car was subject to a service recall as this X308 model can suffer from a throttle body defect that can alarmingly cause the car to stall. It went into Dick Turpin at Warrington Jaguar who replaced the entire throttle body free of any charge and then quoted me £265 for a new tyre !
If you get one of these ensure you get this checked out, I may not be saying anything new here but this kind of fault needs exposure, the more the better.
Also keep your eyes on mad4jags a seller on EBay he is about to list some stunning looking kit for under the bonnet, by this I mean painted and polished Supercharger, Intercoolers and rotor plate, this kit looks really awesome and will be polished and ported as well as fully serviced and if he's feeling generous, you may be lucky and this supercharger will have the power upgraded top pulley attached. I have first hand experience in dealing with this guy, take a look.
I have picked up a constant squeaking sound from the rear end of my 1998 XJR.
It is nothing around the brakes / handbrake friction areas, I have a feeling that it could be coming from the diff which has slight seepage and is then acoustically transmitting outwards down the shafts.
Anyone had this before and what recommendations do you have for cure please ?
Incidentally, I last reported that my car was subject to a service recall as this X308 model can suffer from a throttle body defect that can alarmingly cause the car to stall. It went into Dick Turpin at Warrington Jaguar who replaced the entire throttle body free of any charge and then quoted me £265 for a new tyre !
If you get one of these ensure you get this checked out, I may not be saying anything new here but this kind of fault needs exposure, the more the better.
Also keep your eyes on mad4jags a seller on EBay he is about to list some stunning looking kit for under the bonnet, by this I mean painted and polished Supercharger, Intercoolers and rotor plate, this kit looks really awesome and will be polished and ported as well as fully serviced and if he's feeling generous, you may be lucky and this supercharger will have the power upgraded top pulley attached. I have first hand experience in dealing with this guy, take a look.
I have a 98 XJR x308. Can you tell me the process for getting the throttle work done (and anything else I might have missed). I've heard about this probleem but thought I was too late for any recall work.
As for the diff I'm sure I read about this somewhere else so I'll have a look for you.
As for the diff I'm sure I read about this somewhere else so I'll have a look for you.
Hi,
I happened to call the local dealer in Warrington(Rybrook) to check what quote they were willing to offer to get the timing chain tensioner kit upgrade done for information only.
The service guy on the phone took the car details and said that there are still two outstanding service items to be done to the car, one of which was urgent, he wasn't forthcoming with the description but gave two service codes S514 and R714, if memory serves me correctly.
He said they would like to get the car in for these two inspections and that this would incur zero cost. Obviously I accepted.
The second R714, code is for a power steering pipe rubbing on part of the engine somewhere, again they checked this.
Also checkout PH posting by Broadbean747 on 25th July 2005 if you have not already this is a little more detail on the throttle body.
Hope this helps
I happened to call the local dealer in Warrington(Rybrook) to check what quote they were willing to offer to get the timing chain tensioner kit upgrade done for information only.
The service guy on the phone took the car details and said that there are still two outstanding service items to be done to the car, one of which was urgent, he wasn't forthcoming with the description but gave two service codes S514 and R714, if memory serves me correctly.
He said they would like to get the car in for these two inspections and that this would incur zero cost. Obviously I accepted.
The second R714, code is for a power steering pipe rubbing on part of the engine somewhere, again they checked this.
Also checkout PH posting by Broadbean747 on 25th July 2005 if you have not already this is a little more detail on the throttle body.
Hope this helps
As far as I know the throttle body recall is still live - ring your main stealer with your VIN number and he should be able to tell you if the work has been done. If not get it booked in - not often you get anything for nothing.
Squeak from the rear is more likley to be driveshaft UJs than a 'diff problem. There are grease nipples on each joint which have to be greased every 10k. If that's the cause of the squeaking then get a grease gun filled with LM grease on all four as soon as poss - otherwise you'll knacker the joint if you continue to run it dry.
You'll need to jack the car up and turn the shafts until you can see the nipples which should have a black rubber cap on them. Take off the cap, clean the nipple and pump the joint full of grease until clean grease escapes from all the joints. You may need to pump in a surprising amount to get clean grease out at the other end. Clean off all the expelled grease and refit the cap.
While you're under the rear check the 'diff oil level. It should be up to the filler hole. Much better still, suck the old oil out and refill with a GL5 75/90 full synthetic gear oil. You'll be staggerd at the filthy s
t that comes out if it's still filled with the origional oil.
Squeak from the rear is more likley to be driveshaft UJs than a 'diff problem. There are grease nipples on each joint which have to be greased every 10k. If that's the cause of the squeaking then get a grease gun filled with LM grease on all four as soon as poss - otherwise you'll knacker the joint if you continue to run it dry.
You'll need to jack the car up and turn the shafts until you can see the nipples which should have a black rubber cap on them. Take off the cap, clean the nipple and pump the joint full of grease until clean grease escapes from all the joints. You may need to pump in a surprising amount to get clean grease out at the other end. Clean off all the expelled grease and refit the cap.
While you're under the rear check the 'diff oil level. It should be up to the filler hole. Much better still, suck the old oil out and refill with a GL5 75/90 full synthetic gear oil. You'll be staggerd at the filthy s
t that comes out if it's still filled with the origional oil.Jaguar steve said:
While you're under the rear check the 'diff oil level. It should be up to the filler hole. Much better still, suck the old oil out and refill with a GL5 75/90 full synthetic gear oil. You'll be staggerd at the filthy st that comes out if it's still filled with the origional oil.
Maybe that's why they are sealed for life, so the "filthy st that comes out if it's still filled with the origional oil.t" can't get out?just a thought
to do it.a8hex said:
Jaguar steve said:
While you're under the rear check the 'diff oil level. It should be up to the filler hole. Much better still, suck the old oil out and refill with a GL5 75/90 full synthetic gear oil. You'll be staggerd at the filthy st that comes out if it's still filled with the origional oil.
Maybe that's why they are sealed for life, so the "filthy st that comes out if it's still filled with the origional oil.t" can't get out?just a thought
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