Replacing upper chain tensioner
Discussion
Hi. Another task. I have to replace chain testioner and in order to remove it from the engine i have to remove Engine position sensor . Now i need as many tips as possible before i`ll remove it. Shall I mark position against the screw ? Or can i tune it later with strobe gun somehow ?
Andy
Andy
No need. The slot on the bell housing is shaped to fit and there's a flange on the sensor to stop you pushing it in too far. It's impossible to get it wrong. Dropping the steering rack gives better access to the sensor. Bolt is Torx not Hex type.
You'll have grief removing the dipstick tube mounting lug on the left hand cam cover. FFS don't just yank it out. Carefully cut away half of the lug with a sharp drill and move it aside to get clearance.
Don't, just don't even take the slightest risk of dropping anything down the front timing cover. Stuff it with rags the moment the covers are off.
Cut a 3" length of garden hose, split it down the middle and put it on the top of the front timing cover to protect the mating surface when you undo the hex bolt on the secondary sprocket. If it gets damaged it will leak. Use a long ball end hex tool to go outside of the engine rather than short one inside.
You can usually get away with cleaning the seals up and re using them - providing they are still soft and the engine is clean.
Check all the chains and sprockets for unusual bright spots. Feel, don't just look. Chains should be bar tight. Slippers and guides may have light wear but heavy grooving is not good.
Tensioners may appear not to be working when fitted, you may be able to feel a little backlash in the chains. Once the engine is started and oil pressure builds this will go.
Actually an easy job - despite the horror stories.
Well worth doing for peace of mind. Treat it to an oil and filter change when done.
You'll have grief removing the dipstick tube mounting lug on the left hand cam cover. FFS don't just yank it out. Carefully cut away half of the lug with a sharp drill and move it aside to get clearance.
Don't, just don't even take the slightest risk of dropping anything down the front timing cover. Stuff it with rags the moment the covers are off.
Cut a 3" length of garden hose, split it down the middle and put it on the top of the front timing cover to protect the mating surface when you undo the hex bolt on the secondary sprocket. If it gets damaged it will leak. Use a long ball end hex tool to go outside of the engine rather than short one inside.
You can usually get away with cleaning the seals up and re using them - providing they are still soft and the engine is clean.
Check all the chains and sprockets for unusual bright spots. Feel, don't just look. Chains should be bar tight. Slippers and guides may have light wear but heavy grooving is not good.
Tensioners may appear not to be working when fitted, you may be able to feel a little backlash in the chains. Once the engine is started and oil pressure builds this will go.
Actually an easy job - despite the horror stories.
Well worth doing for peace of mind. Treat it to an oil and filter change when done.
i think the OP has a straight 6, although his profile says cavalier.?? turn the engine by hand, look inside sight glass in the cam position( engine position ) sensor, you will see a little mark, aligh this with the dent type thing in the glass. now remove the sensor. DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE ! Renew the chain tensioner, with the arrow pointing up,replace the sensor so the marks are aligned, it may take a few attempts to get the gears meshed and the marks alinged. if you have any further questions please ask before carrying on, otherwise the car will crak for ages, and even might not start. IF IN ANY DOUBT ABOUT THE CHAIN TENSIONER PLEASE GET A JAG GUY TO DO IT. MAKE SURE YOU ALIGN THE TNSIONER CUT OUT, TO SIT ON THE TENSIONER BLADE.
on the metal disc inside the sensor there in an indent, turn engine over by hand until you see it, line it up with the circle in the plastic sight glass. then your ok to remove the sensor. you should be ok ithout removing the cam cover, i have done more than a few, just make sure that the cut out part or the tensioner it facing 12 o clock. when you remove the old one take note of the positioning of it, it will become very clear. i am guessing you are changing it due to a rattle on start up ? ?
Hi
Thanks for tips. Yes I have rattle when engine is hot and You start it after while . It never rattles on cold starts. I thougt ithat the problem is cause by downpipe so i bought it and now i have to send it back because it`s done wrong. Check my other topic.
WHat about this arch mounting to the block , shall i mark position of this screw against the case of EP sensor ? I assume that if I`ll mark it then i turn shaft on position sensor until it`s allinged . But also i can turn the case againt the moving part right? It`s probably not clear what i meant
Andy
Thanks for tips. Yes I have rattle when engine is hot and You start it after while . It never rattles on cold starts. I thougt ithat the problem is cause by downpipe so i bought it and now i have to send it back because it`s done wrong. Check my other topic.
WHat about this arch mounting to the block , shall i mark position of this screw against the case of EP sensor ? I assume that if I`ll mark it then i turn shaft on position sensor until it`s allinged . But also i can turn the case againt the moving part right? It`s probably not clear what i meant

Andy
Hi
Job done. The crankshaft socket required to set EPS is 34mm. I replaced the tensioner and started the engine, run it for while and then stop it for while. Start again and .... still rattles :/
So i think i have to replace main tensioner. Or chain just streched ? Shall i get new blades for upper and main tensioner.
And last but most importand , HOW to do it ????
DOn`t tell me that i have to drop the head.
Andy
Job done. The crankshaft socket required to set EPS is 34mm. I replaced the tensioner and started the engine, run it for while and then stop it for while. Start again and .... still rattles :/
So i think i have to replace main tensioner. Or chain just streched ? Shall i get new blades for upper and main tensioner.
And last but most importand , HOW to do it ????
DOn`t tell me that i have to drop the head.
Andy
it is possible to do the chains and tensioners without removing the head, just by removing the front timing cover. are you 100% sure the noise is from the chains ?
have you got the correct grade oil in the engine. IIrc x00's did have some problems with the tensioner guides breaking up, dropping in the sump, blocking the oil pick up. causing a lack of oil pressure/flow.
have you got the correct grade oil in the engine. IIrc x00's did have some problems with the tensioner guides breaking up, dropping in the sump, blocking the oil pick up. causing a lack of oil pressure/flow.
I have castrol gtx magnatex 10-w40 as far as i remember . I Bough it because i found 10-w40 Jaguar oil in the boot when i bought the car.
How can I check for the blockage ? I think i comes from the front of the car. First i thought is the downpipe but as i mentioned , that`s already changed.
SO i gues it`s the chain rattling. WHen i had the upper tensioner removed i put my finger to touch the chain and it was very loose , more/less one link too long .
Andy
How can I check for the blockage ? I think i comes from the front of the car. First i thought is the downpipe but as i mentioned , that`s already changed.
SO i gues it`s the chain rattling. WHen i had the upper tensioner removed i put my finger to touch the chain and it was very loose , more/less one link too long .
Andy
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