amber check engine light XKR
Discussion
MrsNST has phone to tell me the battery light is amber (check engine light) car drives normally though, no other problems..
any idea as to what it could be? weak battery? the car has been sitting around alot recently doing not alot..
just waiting for jag assist to come and have a look.
cheers
NST
P0430 Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold
Means the CAT had it. 99.9% of the time, only way it can mean anything else is if the down stream lambda's gone wrong, but then you get the lambda fault code also.
You have up and down stream lambda's on that, so it knows what the gasses are like before and after, it they dont get cleaned up enough after going though the cat, it logs that code.
Will only be one bank though (should say on the diag printout) I think 430 is bank 2 (the passenger side). The cat brick usually has a crank in it, but sometime they brake up and you can hear it when you hammer the casing.
Means the CAT had it. 99.9% of the time, only way it can mean anything else is if the down stream lambda's gone wrong, but then you get the lambda fault code also.
You have up and down stream lambda's on that, so it knows what the gasses are like before and after, it they dont get cleaned up enough after going though the cat, it logs that code.
Will only be one bank though (should say on the diag printout) I think 430 is bank 2 (the passenger side). The cat brick usually has a crank in it, but sometime they brake up and you can hear it when you hammer the casing.
Tame Technician said:
P0430 Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold
Means the CAT had it. 99.9% of the time, only way it can mean anything else is if the down stream lambda's gone wrong, but then you get the lambda fault code also.
You have up and down stream lambda's on that, so it knows what the gasses are like before and after, it they dont get cleaned up enough after going though the cat, it logs that code.
Will only be one bank though (should say on the diag printout) I think 430 is bank 2 (the passenger side). The cat brick usually has a crank in it, but sometime they brake up and you can hear it when you hammer the casing.
Thanks Tame Technician,Means the CAT had it. 99.9% of the time, only way it can mean anything else is if the down stream lambda's gone wrong, but then you get the lambda fault code also.
You have up and down stream lambda's on that, so it knows what the gasses are like before and after, it they dont get cleaned up enough after going though the cat, it logs that code.
Will only be one bank though (should say on the diag printout) I think 430 is bank 2 (the passenger side). The cat brick usually has a crank in it, but sometime they brake up and you can hear it when you hammer the casing.
would the car pass a MOT knowing the cat has had it? the car is due a MOT in the next couple of weeks.. so it would have to get done asap! how much is a cat?!
cheers
NST
Dont bother disconnecting the battery. Even if you clear the code, you are only putting the light out, you wont join the cracked pieces of CAT back together and magically pass and MOT.
If you have a code reader and can clear the memory and then re check it after some time, then Yes swaping down stream lambdas is a very good idea and the best way to confirm its the CAT. NO one in the trade would do this cos its to time consuming.
The cats and sensor are quite difficult to change (no forget that, very). But just hard to get on stuff, not actually alot to it. Passenger side is easier as there's no EGR rubish in the way.
Look at the back of the manifold and there's 4 nuts at the top. Also two bolts at the bottom, they go into the bell houseand and have a support braket on them. Then its just the exhaust clamp and the CATS off (sounds dead easy doesnt it). But have a look at the car and you will see what I mean.
http://www.autobytel.com/images/carPics/TestDrv/Ly...
At the back move that coolant bottle and you should be able to see it.
Its the large rusty thing shown nicely here.
http://images.jaguar-enthusiasts.org.uk/assets/cla...
If you have a code reader and can clear the memory and then re check it after some time, then Yes swaping down stream lambdas is a very good idea and the best way to confirm its the CAT. NO one in the trade would do this cos its to time consuming.
The cats and sensor are quite difficult to change (no forget that, very). But just hard to get on stuff, not actually alot to it. Passenger side is easier as there's no EGR rubish in the way.
Look at the back of the manifold and there's 4 nuts at the top. Also two bolts at the bottom, they go into the bell houseand and have a support braket on them. Then its just the exhaust clamp and the CATS off (sounds dead easy doesnt it). But have a look at the car and you will see what I mean.
http://www.autobytel.com/images/carPics/TestDrv/Ly...
At the back move that coolant bottle and you should be able to see it.
Its the large rusty thing shown nicely here.
http://images.jaguar-enthusiasts.org.uk/assets/cla...
Edited by Tame Technician on Thursday 30th April 20:18
Tame Technician said:
Dont bother disconnecting the battery. Even if you clear the code, you are only putting the light out, you wont join the cracked pieces of CAT back together and magically pass and MOT.
If you have a code reader and can clear the memory and then re check it after some time, then Yes swaping down stream lambdas is a very good idea and the best way to confirm its the CAT. NO one in the trade would do this cos its to time consuming.
The cats and sensor are quite difficult to change (no forget that, very). But just hard to get on stuff, not actually alot to it. Passenger side is easier as there's no EGR rubish in the way.
Look at the back of the manifold and there's 4 nuts at the top. Also two bolts at the bottom, they go into the bell houseand and have a support braket on them. Then its just the exhaust clamp and the CATS off (sounds dead easy doesnt it). But have a look at the car and you will see what I mean.
http://www.autobytel.com/images/carPics/TestDrv/Ly...
At the back move that coolant bottle and you should be able to see it.
Its the large rusty thing shown nicely here.
http://images.jaguar-enthusiasts.org.uk/assets/cla...
thanks, just what i wanted to know, i have access to a garage with a lift etc so hopefully this weekend i shall get this checked out.If you have a code reader and can clear the memory and then re check it after some time, then Yes swaping down stream lambdas is a very good idea and the best way to confirm its the CAT. NO one in the trade would do this cos its to time consuming.
The cats and sensor are quite difficult to change (no forget that, very). But just hard to get on stuff, not actually alot to it. Passenger side is easier as there's no EGR rubish in the way.
Look at the back of the manifold and there's 4 nuts at the top. Also two bolts at the bottom, they go into the bell houseand and have a support braket on them. Then its just the exhaust clamp and the CATS off (sounds dead easy doesnt it). But have a look at the car and you will see what I mean.
http://www.autobytel.com/images/carPics/TestDrv/Ly...
At the back move that coolant bottle and you should be able to see it.
Its the large rusty thing shown nicely here.
http://images.jaguar-enthusiasts.org.uk/assets/cla...
Edited by Tame Technician on Thursday 30th April 20:18
on a plus point i spoke to a couple of dealers and they all think its the sensor, but if i'm unlucky its the cat. which costs £450
Best of luck, if you find you have too remove the CAT to swap the sensors (and I dont think you do), get a set of the four studs and nuts before you start, as they often shear, not a problem of course if it happens later when you fit a new CAT, but a major inconvenience, if you are putting it straight back on.
Dont panic if this happens, they are Quite easy to extract once the CATs removed, as long as you heat the CAT until is glowing with a gas torch.
I know the dealers said sensor, but I'm 99.9% sure, and I did used to do lots of these, that you will find its the CAT. £450 seems ALMOST reasonable though.
Dont panic if this happens, they are Quite easy to extract once the CATs removed, as long as you heat the CAT until is glowing with a gas torch.
I know the dealers said sensor, but I'm 99.9% sure, and I did used to do lots of these, that you will find its the CAT. £450 seems ALMOST reasonable though.
Tame Technician said:
Best of luck, if you find you have too remove the CAT to swap the sensors (and I dont think you do), get a set of the four studs and nuts before you start, as they often shear, not a problem of course if it happens later when you fit a new CAT, but a major inconvenience, if you are putting it straight back on.
Dont panic if this happens, they are Quite easy to extract once the CATs removed, as long as you heat the CAT until is glowing with a gas torch.
I know the dealers said sensor, but I'm 99.9% sure, and I did used to do lots of these, that you will find its the CAT. £450 seems ALMOST reasonable though.
thanks for the info!Dont panic if this happens, they are Quite easy to extract once the CATs removed, as long as you heat the CAT until is glowing with a gas torch.
I know the dealers said sensor, but I'm 99.9% sure, and I did used to do lots of these, that you will find its the CAT. £450 seems ALMOST reasonable though.
i will keep you informed of how badly i mess it up!
The car the passed the MOT with flying colours, they reset the fault code and as it happens it hasn't come back in the last 220miles or so). i didn't get a chance to swap the lambda sensors. The warranty company is coming to check the car to pass/fail the claim for the cat today so hopefully i should get some good news..
update:
warranty guy came and went and asked the dealer what they wanted to claim for as everything on the car seemed ok.. they checked the car over with system check etc and came back with nothing. all ok.
i'm starting to wonder if the battery needs replacing, i've started to get the trac not avail warning come up sometimes, but this only occurs when the car has been sitting around for a week or so. i'm wondering if the lambda sensor returned the error due to a battery being slightly week.
cheers
update:
warranty guy came and went and asked the dealer what they wanted to claim for as everything on the car seemed ok.. they checked the car over with system check etc and came back with nothing. all ok.
i'm starting to wonder if the battery needs replacing, i've started to get the trac not avail warning come up sometimes, but this only occurs when the car has been sitting around for a week or so. i'm wondering if the lambda sensor returned the error due to a battery being slightly week.
cheers
Edited by NST on Thursday 14th May 08:11
Hi,
I was having similar issues with "TRAC NOT AVAIL" coming up more and more frequently, at first it was when the car was left for a couple of weeks, eventually it was showing after just three days, coupled with a DSC error, then I got the amber check engine light, after the battery was replaced and I cleared the fault code the "TRAC NOT AVAIL" only came back once, on a very very wet evening, with several inches of standing water on the road. I will be firing her up for the first time in a couple of weeks on Sunday, will let you know if either the lambda fault code or the "TRAC NOT AVAIL" comes back. I am pretty sure it was the battery.
Cecil
I was having similar issues with "TRAC NOT AVAIL" coming up more and more frequently, at first it was when the car was left for a couple of weeks, eventually it was showing after just three days, coupled with a DSC error, then I got the amber check engine light, after the battery was replaced and I cleared the fault code the "TRAC NOT AVAIL" only came back once, on a very very wet evening, with several inches of standing water on the road. I will be firing her up for the first time in a couple of weeks on Sunday, will let you know if either the lambda fault code or the "TRAC NOT AVAIL" comes back. I am pretty sure it was the battery.
Cecil
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