xj 6 3.2 sport won't start
Discussion
I have an xj6 3.2 sport manual that I have not used for about three years. The battery has obviously gone flat on the car.
After putting on a new battery it will not crank the engine on the key, it will crank over with power to the solenoid, the relay is new.Everything else works fine, none of the three original keys make it go.
On position two the check engine light goes out which I am told means the immobiliser is on.
I have seen a few threads in forums where this has happened but the only solutions suggested thsat I have seen are:
Disconnect neg battery lead for longer than two minutes - doesn't work
Touch battery leads together for more than five seconds - doesn't work
Disconnect and reconnect security module in boot - can't find it is there one ?
Any ideas anyone
After putting on a new battery it will not crank the engine on the key, it will crank over with power to the solenoid, the relay is new.Everything else works fine, none of the three original keys make it go.
On position two the check engine light goes out which I am told means the immobiliser is on.
I have seen a few threads in forums where this has happened but the only solutions suggested thsat I have seen are:
Disconnect neg battery lead for longer than two minutes - doesn't work
Touch battery leads together for more than five seconds - doesn't work
Disconnect and reconnect security module in boot - can't find it is there one ?
Any ideas anyone
Hi, I think I've replied to you on another forum - but you have a new question here. The security module is in the near-side rear wing, just next to the fuel filler latch mechanism. You need to remove the carpeting in the boot at that wing. Space is tight and IIRC the module is held by a bracket attached to the inner wing, so a couple of 10mm(?) nuts need to be removed which allows the module to come out enough to disconnect the plugs to it.
Another thing that might be worth considering is cleaning as many electrical connections as you can (and there are plenty) because the problem might lie with faulty connections.
Another thing that might be worth considering is cleaning as many electrical connections as you can (and there are plenty) because the problem might lie with faulty connections.
Yes indeed thanks - trying everywhere.
Someone suggested disconnecting and reconnecting it hence the question.
Since then another chap Steve referred me to his earlier posts on that forum. He had the same issue which he fixed eventually by going through the "chip in key registration process" It seems the security module loses the code after a while so presumably it is powered by an auxiliary battery somewhere, perhaps the siren ?
Anyone know how to do the registration process or do I have to get a dealer to do it ?
Someone suggested disconnecting and reconnecting it hence the question.
Since then another chap Steve referred me to his earlier posts on that forum. He had the same issue which he fixed eventually by going through the "chip in key registration process" It seems the security module loses the code after a while so presumably it is powered by an auxiliary battery somewhere, perhaps the siren ?
Anyone know how to do the registration process or do I have to get a dealer to do it ?
By an XJ6 3.2 I'm assuming this is an X300.
Here many main dealer mechanics won't be that familiar with them any more.
This is a car that went out of production some 13/14 years ago.
Sure there are really good main dealers out there, but I suspect that there is now more familiarity with this model in the Indy sector.
When I used RGCs my X300 was handled in their classic Jaguar group.
Here many main dealer mechanics won't be that familiar with them any more.
This is a car that went out of production some 13/14 years ago.
Sure there are really good main dealers out there, but I suspect that there is now more familiarity with this model in the Indy sector.
When I used RGCs my X300 was handled in their classic Jaguar group.
Anonnot, I thought i'd read that post/thread by Steve and I got a totally different interpretation. I thought he had to change the exciter, security module, locks and keys. Admitedly I was reading it from the point of changing my Sport car's keys and locks with my xjr - so I was perhaps adding/omitted stuff in order to get the info I wanted. So to recap, you turn the key in the ignition and all the lights light up but the starter motor wont turn - yet you can get it to turn by attaching a battery directly to it?
In escence, I don't think there is one easy fix for this problem- you've had a few solutions from varous forums. However, I do think that with some work with a multimeter and even an OBDII diagnostic machine you will get the car to start.
I'm wondering if this immobiliser stuff is a blind alley.
By the way - that multi meter task starts with the battery you put in.
In escence, I don't think there is one easy fix for this problem- you've had a few solutions from varous forums. However, I do think that with some work with a multimeter and even an OBDII diagnostic machine you will get the car to start.
I'm wondering if this immobiliser stuff is a blind alley.
By the way - that multi meter task starts with the battery you put in.
Edited by Straight6DOHC on Tuesday 5th October 00:14
Yes, tried various multi meter checks. These seem to indicate that it is immobilised.
All the lights light up with the key on position 2, after a few seconds the check engine light goes out, which indicates the immobiliser is on. This was exactly Steves problem also on a car that had been stood for a long period with a flat battery.
He eventually swapped various components including Security Module and exciter ring etc from a "good" car and using a combination of the keys started the problem car. This indicates that the SM had lost the code, presumably there is a little cmos battery somewhere that usually keeps it "alive". He then drove the vehicle to a chap who had the software to perform the chip in key registration process and swapped the components back again to the original SM and did the key registration process whereon it started up.
All the lights light up with the key on position 2, after a few seconds the check engine light goes out, which indicates the immobiliser is on. This was exactly Steves problem also on a car that had been stood for a long period with a flat battery.
He eventually swapped various components including Security Module and exciter ring etc from a "good" car and using a combination of the keys started the problem car. This indicates that the SM had lost the code, presumably there is a little cmos battery somewhere that usually keeps it "alive". He then drove the vehicle to a chap who had the software to perform the chip in key registration process and swapped the components back again to the original SM and did the key registration process whereon it started up.
Latest is.....
Tried phoning various auto electric places etc, no luck
Eventually spoke to a "technician" at Hartwells in Bristol who sounded like he knew what he was talking about.
He said there is no cmos battery etc and said if the car was locked with the remote and then the door was unlocked with the key it would beep, you then put the key in the ignition and turn it on. If the beeps stop then it proves the the key is being recognised by the security system which he said means both the alarm and the immobiliser. Mine goes off so he reckons it is not a problem with the key recognition.
He suggested that the most likely problem was corrosion on the pins in the plugs on the engine managment system on the right in the drivers footwell. If it is not that then they would need the car recovered to them to have a look.
So I looked at the SM in the boot and the body module in the passengers side both lots of connectors fine.
When I tried the engine managment unit (drivers footwell behind the plastic kick cover which he reckons is where the problem is) there is a sort of black strap over the plugs which seems to stop you from pulling them off. This is riveted to the module and is obviosly not supposed to come off. As far as I can see the only way to get the connectors off is to chop this strap off with a hacksaw but this sounds a bit drastic.
Any ideas anyone ??
Tried phoning various auto electric places etc, no luck
Eventually spoke to a "technician" at Hartwells in Bristol who sounded like he knew what he was talking about.
He said there is no cmos battery etc and said if the car was locked with the remote and then the door was unlocked with the key it would beep, you then put the key in the ignition and turn it on. If the beeps stop then it proves the the key is being recognised by the security system which he said means both the alarm and the immobiliser. Mine goes off so he reckons it is not a problem with the key recognition.
He suggested that the most likely problem was corrosion on the pins in the plugs on the engine managment system on the right in the drivers footwell. If it is not that then they would need the car recovered to them to have a look.
So I looked at the SM in the boot and the body module in the passengers side both lots of connectors fine.
When I tried the engine managment unit (drivers footwell behind the plastic kick cover which he reckons is where the problem is) there is a sort of black strap over the plugs which seems to stop you from pulling them off. This is riveted to the module and is obviosly not supposed to come off. As far as I can see the only way to get the connectors off is to chop this strap off with a hacksaw but this sounds a bit drastic.
Any ideas anyone ??
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