X300 Buying advice
Discussion
Is there a recommended buying guide for the X300 model XJ?
I am considering one as a second vehicle for trips out. It'd cover maybe 2-3,000 miles per annum. I'd prefer the X308 V8 but having read in depth the issues that can affect the car I am somewhat put off. A late X300 would seem to be a good choice from what I've read. I'm interested in the common faults (and remedies) and items to specifically look for when viewing a vehicle of this vintage.
Which is the preferred option for cruising on some country roads? The 3.2 or the 4.0?
I am considering one as a second vehicle for trips out. It'd cover maybe 2-3,000 miles per annum. I'd prefer the X308 V8 but having read in depth the issues that can affect the car I am somewhat put off. A late X300 would seem to be a good choice from what I've read. I'm interested in the common faults (and remedies) and items to specifically look for when viewing a vehicle of this vintage.
Which is the preferred option for cruising on some country roads? The 3.2 or the 4.0?
This question comes up lots of times on this and many other Jaguar forums. Have a little internet search. Before you do, I'll tell you a few things which may help. Later cars have many of the niggles more or less ironed out (eg rusty rear arches)
The clock won't work properly on any x300. It can be fixed but I don't know how long the fix lasts.
Exhaust manifolds crack, try to locate or feel for blowing under the heat-shield - bargain accordingly as one new manifold is £200 and there are 2. Cars will probably be fine though long term, the cracks will get bigger and will eventually cause problems.
All the other things are generally wear and tear, bushes, bearings, springs (early cars have 7 coils on the rear and later cars have 9.)
Most jobs are DIY if you are handy with the spanners.
Paint top/clearcoat can flake.
Just make sure everything works as regards switches, heater and AC, lights etc.
Try to buy one that looks well cared for even if it's a bit more than an unloved looking one. They are still pretty cheap for what you get.
Good luck.
The clock won't work properly on any x300. It can be fixed but I don't know how long the fix lasts.
Exhaust manifolds crack, try to locate or feel for blowing under the heat-shield - bargain accordingly as one new manifold is £200 and there are 2. Cars will probably be fine though long term, the cracks will get bigger and will eventually cause problems.
All the other things are generally wear and tear, bushes, bearings, springs (early cars have 7 coils on the rear and later cars have 9.)
Most jobs are DIY if you are handy with the spanners.
Paint top/clearcoat can flake.
Just make sure everything works as regards switches, heater and AC, lights etc.
Try to buy one that looks well cared for even if it's a bit more than an unloved looking one. They are still pretty cheap for what you get.
Good luck.
4 litre all the way I'm afraid - these cars about effortless waft, and that is something the 3.2 fails to provide. The 4 litre also gets a better autobox with sport mode.
For that annual mileage, have you considered looking into the 6 litre V12 cars? Mechanically they are very realiable...
Dave
For that annual mileage, have you considered looking into the 6 litre V12 cars? Mechanically they are very realiable...
Dave
Ford build quality lifted the X300 to levels never seen in a Jaguar before.
3.2 can be sluggish heavily laden 4.0 has a lot more torque and better auto gearbox. Avoid manuals - clutch is heavy, gearbox agricultural and less refined than autos. Engines are bomproof if cared for. Check for emulsion in coolant - possible headgasket
Heavy on brakes & suspension components. Stick with 16" wheels, ride is compromsed with larger diameters and replacement tyres cost a lot more.
Check tyres very carefully for uneven wear or excessive feathering - indicates suspension problems.
Check all the toys work esp heating and a/c - clock displays, aerial and immobiliser failures
Upper timing chain tensioner can rattle - not to be confused with later V8 issues.
Severe rust on rear wheel arches, general floorpan and round screens. Lacquer peels - look for tiny blisters and dull spots. Rear bumper mounts corrode and bumper falls off.
Expect 25/7 MPG on a run and high teens to low 20 round town.
All car with exception of electrics easy and cheap to repair. DIY service perfectly possible. Parts very reasonably priced - try British Car Parts site for examples.
Pay absolute top money to get a pristine one from an enthusiast. There's plenty around and nobody wants them - it's a buyers market. Once you've bought it change all the fluids and soak it in Waxoil. With care it'll last forever.
3.2 can be sluggish heavily laden 4.0 has a lot more torque and better auto gearbox. Avoid manuals - clutch is heavy, gearbox agricultural and less refined than autos. Engines are bomproof if cared for. Check for emulsion in coolant - possible headgasket
Heavy on brakes & suspension components. Stick with 16" wheels, ride is compromsed with larger diameters and replacement tyres cost a lot more.
Check tyres very carefully for uneven wear or excessive feathering - indicates suspension problems.
Check all the toys work esp heating and a/c - clock displays, aerial and immobiliser failures
Upper timing chain tensioner can rattle - not to be confused with later V8 issues.
Severe rust on rear wheel arches, general floorpan and round screens. Lacquer peels - look for tiny blisters and dull spots. Rear bumper mounts corrode and bumper falls off.
Expect 25/7 MPG on a run and high teens to low 20 round town.
All car with exception of electrics easy and cheap to repair. DIY service perfectly possible. Parts very reasonably priced - try British Car Parts site for examples.
Pay absolute top money to get a pristine one from an enthusiast. There's plenty around and nobody wants them - it's a buyers market. Once you've bought it change all the fluids and soak it in Waxoil. With care it'll last forever.
Hi and welcome to the forum.
There is one area that previous posters haven't mentioned but I feel is quite important .... Service History.
I would probably walk away from a car that had no Service History, no matter how good it looked at first glance. There are plenty more out there.
Cheers,
Steve
There is one area that previous posters haven't mentioned but I feel is quite important .... Service History.
I would probably walk away from a car that had no Service History, no matter how good it looked at first glance. There are plenty more out there.
Cheers,
Steve
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