Buying a 2007 D3 S8 - Any advice welcomed.
Discussion
I'm looking at replacing my 2002 D2 S8 with a 2007 D3 S8.
The D2 has been maintained regardless of cost. I'm the second owner from new and it's a very clean and original example.
I know nothing about D3's I'm afraid. The one I'm going to look at has an Engine light on and an air Suspension light on and is priced accordingly. A friend with the VCDS scanning software is coming with me to diagnose the faults.
Other than that I'd appreciate any tips on what to look for. Thanks.
The D2 has been maintained regardless of cost. I'm the second owner from new and it's a very clean and original example.
I know nothing about D3's I'm afraid. The one I'm going to look at has an Engine light on and an air Suspension light on and is priced accordingly. A friend with the VCDS scanning software is coming with me to diagnose the faults.
Other than that I'd appreciate any tips on what to look for. Thanks.
A problematic S8 can be just that. The build quality of these cars is excellent overall but they are fiercely complicated and problems can become that too.
Is it really that cheap that by the time you've fitted a new suspension compressor, de-coked it and rebuilt the inlet manifold it's still cheap enough (including aggro factor) that you couldn't have gone out and bought a better one?
I'd be looking for something cherished rather than a fixer-upper in this case.
Air suspension components are all expensive and faults can snowball; a leaking strut can burn out the compressor, for example. The V10 can suffer from carbon buildup in the manifold and inlets that in an extreme case will cause problems with manifolds.
If you're adamant that it's this car you want to buy you need to test absolutely everything else and buy it at a price that will cover the worst-case repairs and your time in getting them sorted.
Is it really that cheap that by the time you've fitted a new suspension compressor, de-coked it and rebuilt the inlet manifold it's still cheap enough (including aggro factor) that you couldn't have gone out and bought a better one?
I'd be looking for something cherished rather than a fixer-upper in this case.
Air suspension components are all expensive and faults can snowball; a leaking strut can burn out the compressor, for example. The V10 can suffer from carbon buildup in the manifold and inlets that in an extreme case will cause problems with manifolds.
If you're adamant that it's this car you want to buy you need to test absolutely everything else and buy it at a price that will cover the worst-case repairs and your time in getting them sorted.
I have one and if I found a cheap one to fix I would steer clear. Although lights can be easy fixes. I was running low on fuel and found a garage that only did normal unleaded so had to put some in. With that in the tank my engine management light came one. When filled with Super it went off never to come on again. I also had power sterring fail so replaced at a cost of 1200 quid, engine out job. Electric handbrake failed so all replaced at about 700 quid. Now I have a very sorted car, but has come at a cost.
Would always recommend one as they are immense and I have Miltek so sounds like nothing on the road I have ever heard, even super expensive super cars don't sound as great. Buying essentials, good colour, B&O system (awesome) steel breaks as most cars are failry highish mileage so you never know how long you may have on ceramics, and full VAG history. Check absolutely everything works or it could be nasty!
I was looking to sell and could consider still so let me know if you're interested.
Would always recommend one as they are immense and I have Miltek so sounds like nothing on the road I have ever heard, even super expensive super cars don't sound as great. Buying essentials, good colour, B&O system (awesome) steel breaks as most cars are failry highish mileage so you never know how long you may have on ceramics, and full VAG history. Check absolutely everything works or it could be nasty!
I was looking to sell and could consider still so let me know if you're interested.
This one has a lot of nice options: FSH, B&O, solar sunroof, digital TV, soft close, ceramic brakes, parking camera, front and rear heated seats, Sat nav plus some others I've forgotten.
I'm used to large bills; I do currently run an S8.
I suspect the reason it's below list price is because of a suspension problem looming but I'm prepared to pay for that if the rest of the car stacks up.
I've managed to find a D3 S8 owner to come along which will be a massive help.
I'm used to large bills; I do currently run an S8.
I suspect the reason it's below list price is because of a suspension problem looming but I'm prepared to pay for that if the rest of the car stacks up.
I've managed to find a D3 S8 owner to come along which will be a massive help.
107,000.
I do think the D2 is the cooler car but I figured if I'm getting 4-figure bills I'd rather spend that money on something marginally newer and with more toys to show for it.
I will miss the D2 if it goes; it's a particularly well-kept example. Only 1 previous owner who bought it from the local Audi dealer; FSH, maintained at any expense, scarce colour (Dolphin Grey), totally original 2002 model. Not that this is meant to read like an advert.
I do think the D2 is the cooler car but I figured if I'm getting 4-figure bills I'd rather spend that money on something marginally newer and with more toys to show for it.
I will miss the D2 if it goes; it's a particularly well-kept example. Only 1 previous owner who bought it from the local Audi dealer; FSH, maintained at any expense, scarce colour (Dolphin Grey), totally original 2002 model. Not that this is meant to read like an advert.
abitlikefiennes said:
107,000.
I do think the D2 is the cooler car but I figured if I'm getting 4-figure bills I'd rather spend that money on something marginally newer and with more toys to show for it.
I will miss the D2 if it goes; it's a particularly well-kept example. Only 1 previous owner who bought it from the local Audi dealer; FSH, maintained at any expense, scarce colour (Dolphin Grey), totally original 2002 model. Not that this is meant to read like an advert.
The D2 is lovely, but dated now. The D3 is the better, so insulated and so capable. I'm in the Peak District and had mine on winters during the snow 3/4 years ago, it was superb. I don't think 100,000 miles is too high, just make sure everything works. Oh also - a number of things you mention as options are actually standard IIRC - soft close, parking camera. Not sure whether B&O/ceramics would make any difference to me if I'm honest. I think I'd go on condition.I do think the D2 is the cooler car but I figured if I'm getting 4-figure bills I'd rather spend that money on something marginally newer and with more toys to show for it.
I will miss the D2 if it goes; it's a particularly well-kept example. Only 1 previous owner who bought it from the local Audi dealer; FSH, maintained at any expense, scarce colour (Dolphin Grey), totally original 2002 model. Not that this is meant to read like an advert.
Ceramics are great brakes,but I live in London and could never keep mine hot enough to brake anything near as good as the steels on my facelift D3, ceramics cold in town are a bit scary, especially if you drive like a knob (which I do) sometimes.the D3 is an epic car, the Bose sound system is very very good, the V10 Miltek is far better
Hi there,
I am also a D3S8 owner of a late 2006 model. Over 3 years have taken it from 60,000 to 155,000 miles.
Like some of my fellow owners watch out for suspension problems, power steering problems, electric handbrake problems and electrical glitches. Steel brakes last 60,000 miles and with yellow stuff pads, get great braking. Staying on top of the little things can become expensive, but most of them are not essential any many of us live without them.
But when you pop it into sport mode and blast it round to 7200 rpm, leaving everything behind, it makes it all worthwhile. I once described it as a Jeckell & Hyde car, depending on whether you are in D or S gearbox mode. D tries to get into highest possible gear as quickly as possible, S is like a scalded cat.
Find a good Indy and ignore stealers. Get onto A8parts.co.uk forum and enjoy what foe me has been the best car I have owned.
Richardracer
I am also a D3S8 owner of a late 2006 model. Over 3 years have taken it from 60,000 to 155,000 miles.
Like some of my fellow owners watch out for suspension problems, power steering problems, electric handbrake problems and electrical glitches. Steel brakes last 60,000 miles and with yellow stuff pads, get great braking. Staying on top of the little things can become expensive, but most of them are not essential any many of us live without them.
But when you pop it into sport mode and blast it round to 7200 rpm, leaving everything behind, it makes it all worthwhile. I once described it as a Jeckell & Hyde car, depending on whether you are in D or S gearbox mode. D tries to get into highest possible gear as quickly as possible, S is like a scalded cat.
Find a good Indy and ignore stealers. Get onto A8parts.co.uk forum and enjoy what foe me has been the best car I have owned.
Richardracer
Saw it; walked away. Far too many unknowns even at the price they were asking.
'Can we scan it?' we asked.
'Sure, sure' said the trader, perhaps knowing that we couldn't due to the ODB port missing, presumed lost amongst the wiring in the lower dash.
Engine misfiring; only one key; previous bodywork damaged mentioned as a fail on an old MOT (now repaired); soft close not working on the drivers door; tyres were almost smooth; tyre pressure system had faults; air suspension could be seriously borked... I'm sure there was more.
We suspect someone had run it on a budget and ditched it when their pockets couldn't cope with impending expense.
To someone with capability to fettle it back into shape it will be a bargain.
'Can we scan it?' we asked.
'Sure, sure' said the trader, perhaps knowing that we couldn't due to the ODB port missing, presumed lost amongst the wiring in the lower dash.
Engine misfiring; only one key; previous bodywork damaged mentioned as a fail on an old MOT (now repaired); soft close not working on the drivers door; tyres were almost smooth; tyre pressure system had faults; air suspension could be seriously borked... I'm sure there was more.
We suspect someone had run it on a budget and ditched it when their pockets couldn't cope with impending expense.
To someone with capability to fettle it back into shape it will be a bargain.
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