Any experience of the S3 8L
Discussion
Had one for a year back in 2012. New clutch, DMF and rear drop links, plus cambelt, water pump and a couple of other things.
I used it on a 58 mile each way commute, averaged around 34/35 mpg. Not the greatest steer, but effortless and reasonably comfortable in the excellent heated leather Recaros.
Mine was a facelifted 210 BHP.
I used it on a 58 mile each way commute, averaged around 34/35 mpg. Not the greatest steer, but effortless and reasonably comfortable in the excellent heated leather Recaros.
Mine was a facelifted 210 BHP.
Sorry guys, I've been sorting the severance terms, been at physio regularly due to a back injury so not been back on here.
The normal really, things I need to look for. Anything that always fails. What will need replacing to freshen it up (bushes etc).
Looking at something like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2003-AUDI-S3-QUATTRO-260...
It appears to have had a eventful last few years though...
The normal really, things I need to look for. Anything that always fails. What will need replacing to freshen it up (bushes etc).
Looking at something like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2003-AUDI-S3-QUATTRO-260...
It appears to have had a eventful last few years though...
Edited by Backtobasics on Thursday 7th April 19:17
Ran a '99 year car for a few years a few years ago - was a great little car and used to do track-days in it until I realised it really was too heavy.
The one I bought had 105k on it when I bought it and I think about 130k when I sold it, smoked a bit intermittently but never failed an emissions test.
Problems I had on it were a cracked spring and some electrical faults, all relatively easy to fix and relatively cheap. Loads of info on the web for DIY as well.
I had the clutch pedal snap which is relatively common at high miles, worth doing a prevantative fix - and some boost leaks, lots and lots of pipework.
PM me with your e-mail if you are still interested in buying one, am aware of someone who is looking to sell one as he has just taken delivery of a company car.
Cheers,
Phil
The one I bought had 105k on it when I bought it and I think about 130k when I sold it, smoked a bit intermittently but never failed an emissions test.
Problems I had on it were a cracked spring and some electrical faults, all relatively easy to fix and relatively cheap. Loads of info on the web for DIY as well.
I had the clutch pedal snap which is relatively common at high miles, worth doing a prevantative fix - and some boost leaks, lots and lots of pipework.
PM me with your e-mail if you are still interested in buying one, am aware of someone who is looking to sell one as he has just taken delivery of a company car.
Cheers,
Phil
I have one that I bought from a friend to do trackdays in. It's great in the wet, everything is pretty solid and heavy - not ideal for a track.
Good spec, reasonably quick and reliable. Only minor electrical issues with mine - voltage regulator, PHONE issue with headunit etc.
Good choice.
Good spec, reasonably quick and reliable. Only minor electrical issues with mine - voltage regulator, PHONE issue with headunit etc.
Good choice.
I had one for 3 years, custom code remapped to 260bhp. Nice comfortable car, more of brisk gt type thing than a hot hatch. Reliability was okay, new coil packs, master slave cylinder were the bigger outlays. It didn't handle brilliantly however, under steered massively and handling felt vague. Although quick from a standing start it really didn't like to rev and felt a little gutless. Nice styling, I still turn to look at one every time I see one!
Edited by pinseeker on Monday 11th April 23:23
IMO all of the suspension could/should be refreshed, just finished this on mine, huge difference. Assuming that's not a realistic option, the front wishbones are probably the most "worth doing". Stick polyurethane in the front to sharpen up the steering. Do balljoints too while the wishbones are off the car. If you want to do a similar one-hit deal on the rear, go for trailing arm bushes.
Replacing the "dogbone" bushes is well worth doing for a tighter gearchange and the feeling that the drivetrain isn't a separate unit floating somewhere in the engine bay...the Powerflex "diesel" (red, softer) ones are the usual forum choice, can't fault it myself.
Rear springs snap near the base.
PCV pipework under the intake manifold perishes.
Screen between the speedo and tacho (DIS) often ends up with dead pixels, not had this problem myself. These can be fixed for not too extortionate a fee.
Oil pickup pipes in the sump get clogged due to excessively long service intervals etc.
There is a "test" for the Haldex system which involves driving around in a circle...I don't think this is necessary, you should be able to feel it.
Replacing the "dogbone" bushes is well worth doing for a tighter gearchange and the feeling that the drivetrain isn't a separate unit floating somewhere in the engine bay...the Powerflex "diesel" (red, softer) ones are the usual forum choice, can't fault it myself.
Rear springs snap near the base.
PCV pipework under the intake manifold perishes.
Screen between the speedo and tacho (DIS) often ends up with dead pixels, not had this problem myself. These can be fixed for not too extortionate a fee.
Oil pickup pipes in the sump get clogged due to excessively long service intervals etc.
There is a "test" for the Haldex system which involves driving around in a circle...I don't think this is necessary, you should be able to feel it.
Have owned one for 13yrs now - great car and not had too many issues other than the haldex controller itself failing, and usual broken springs on the rear, and clogged rear wash. I did take the car off long-life servicing quite early, which probably helped avoid any oil pickup issues..
A decent remap makes a big difference. On standard suspension it did feel a bit floaty on the motorway, which I sorted with H&R springs, which made it feel more stable.
A decent remap makes a big difference. On standard suspension it did feel a bit floaty on the motorway, which I sorted with H&R springs, which made it feel more stable.
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