Skoda 1.5 tsi stopping issue
Discussion
2023 Karok 1.5 Tsi.
Occasionally when slowing down the engine dies, under 10 mph but sometimes stationary, mostly out of gear.
Stop state symbol has the line through it on the dash and the engine requires a manual restart. No warning beep so you generally find out when you put it into gear to go and find the engine hasn’t started. None of the symptoms of stalling as no load on engine and if I stall the car (I have been known to) stop-start restarts it.
Doesn’t do it at the dealer and no codes set.
Dealer says nothing wrong with the car
Any suggestions
Occasionally when slowing down the engine dies, under 10 mph but sometimes stationary, mostly out of gear.
Stop state symbol has the line through it on the dash and the engine requires a manual restart. No warning beep so you generally find out when you put it into gear to go and find the engine hasn’t started. None of the symptoms of stalling as no load on engine and if I stall the car (I have been known to) stop-start restarts it.
Doesn’t do it at the dealer and no codes set.
Dealer says nothing wrong with the car
Any suggestions
Indeed, that was me.
I'm afraid that I got nowhere with the supplying dealer (Lookers of Newcastle) who had the car in on several occasions but claimed that they could find no fault. In the end I sold it back to them and bought a 1 litre VW Polo from them instead. The 1.5 tsi Kamiq was back for sale on their website shortly afterwards so I hope that the next owner didn't suffer similar issues although I'm pretty sure that he/she would have done.
I'm afraid that I got nowhere with the supplying dealer (Lookers of Newcastle) who had the car in on several occasions but claimed that they could find no fault. In the end I sold it back to them and bought a 1 litre VW Polo from them instead. The 1.5 tsi Kamiq was back for sale on their website shortly afterwards so I hope that the next owner didn't suffer similar issues although I'm pretty sure that he/she would have done.
IJWS15 said:
2023 Karok 1.5 Tsi.
Occasionally when slowing down the engine dies, under 10 mph but sometimes stationary, mostly out of gear.
Stop state symbol has the line through it on the dash and the engine requires a manual restart. No warning beep so you generally find out when you put it into gear to go and find the engine hasn t started. None of the symptoms of stalling as no load on engine and if I stall the car (I have been known to) stop-start restarts it.
Doesn t do it at the dealer and no codes set.
Dealer says nothing wrong with the car
Any suggestions
Occasionally when slowing down the engine dies, under 10 mph but sometimes stationary, mostly out of gear.
Stop state symbol has the line through it on the dash and the engine requires a manual restart. No warning beep so you generally find out when you put it into gear to go and find the engine hasn t started. None of the symptoms of stalling as no load on engine and if I stall the car (I have been known to) stop-start restarts it.
Doesn t do it at the dealer and no codes set.
Dealer says nothing wrong with the car
Any suggestions
Start by making sure the battery is 100% perfect.
If it ain't it can cause all sorts of strange issues, and start stop is the first to fail even with a very slight drop in voltage.
When it was in they did say that the battery was a little low and could I charge it…….I haven’t as we drove down to High Wycombe the following day. This is a car still under warranty!!!
Sent the dealer a link to the Briskoda thread and they asked me to try E5. If it was fuel it would exhibit the fault a lot on a poor quality tank and not at all on a good one. Besides they say the car will run on E10. I did run it down intending to fill with E5 today but when I stopped to fill up they didn’t have any E5 so it got E10.
It also had a wiper fault (rain sensing not working) when it went in and the feedback was nff but recoded……. What the tech really meant was he could see they were not working but the computer hadn’t logged any faults so obviously they were not faulty (nff) but he recoded them to fix the fault he didn’t find!
Looks like the next car won’t be a Skoda, or even VAG as they all use the same systems.
Sent the dealer a link to the Briskoda thread and they asked me to try E5. If it was fuel it would exhibit the fault a lot on a poor quality tank and not at all on a good one. Besides they say the car will run on E10. I did run it down intending to fill with E5 today but when I stopped to fill up they didn’t have any E5 so it got E10.
It also had a wiper fault (rain sensing not working) when it went in and the feedback was nff but recoded……. What the tech really meant was he could see they were not working but the computer hadn’t logged any faults so obviously they were not faulty (nff) but he recoded them to fix the fault he didn’t find!
Looks like the next car won’t be a Skoda, or even VAG as they all use the same systems.
IJWS15 said:
When it was in they did say that the battery was a little low and could I charge it .I haven t as we drove down to High Wycombe the following day. This is a car still under warranty!!!
Sent the dealer a link to the Briskoda thread and they asked me to try E5. If it was fuel it would exhibit the fault a lot on a poor quality tank and not at all on a good one. Besides they say the car will run on E10. I did run it down intending to fill with E5 today but when I stopped to fill up they didn t have any E5 so it got E10.
It also had a wiper fault (rain sensing not working) when it went in and the feedback was nff but recoded . What the tech really meant was he could see they were not working but the computer hadn t logged any faults so obviously they were not faulty (nff) but he recoded them to fix the fault he didn t find!
Looks like the next car won t be a Skoda, or even VAG as they all use the same systems.
They surprisingly told you the battery was low and you did nothing about it?Sent the dealer a link to the Briskoda thread and they asked me to try E5. If it was fuel it would exhibit the fault a lot on a poor quality tank and not at all on a good one. Besides they say the car will run on E10. I did run it down intending to fill with E5 today but when I stopped to fill up they didn t have any E5 so it got E10.
It also had a wiper fault (rain sensing not working) when it went in and the feedback was nff but recoded . What the tech really meant was he could see they were not working but the computer hadn t logged any faults so obviously they were not faulty (nff) but he recoded them to fix the fault he didn t find!
Looks like the next car won t be a Skoda, or even VAG as they all use the same systems.
A faulty battery will not charge fully from driving, if s cell is down its down.
3 year old battery, a new one will be a good idea, especially has you have been told its an issue.
You might not be blaming VAG systems then.
Is this happening regardless of whether stop/start is enabled?
I know this is a mainly an issue in manual cars but there's a sense in wife's DSG Karoq (in which we never use stop/start) that the engine is going to die as you come to rest as if the clutches are a little slow to disengage, but it always catches itself.
I did try a tankful of E5 for no particular reason and the car went a bit mental - the car became annoying sharper pulling out of junctions etc. The "softness" had gone from pulling away - it was as if someone had reprogrammed the throttle response.
I know this is a mainly an issue in manual cars but there's a sense in wife's DSG Karoq (in which we never use stop/start) that the engine is going to die as you come to rest as if the clutches are a little slow to disengage, but it always catches itself.
I did try a tankful of E5 for no particular reason and the car went a bit mental - the car became annoying sharper pulling out of junctions etc. The "softness" had gone from pulling away - it was as if someone had reprogrammed the throttle response.
I had in issue with the stop start on my Skoda (its a 2.0tsi) which the dealer claimed not to be able to pin down I ended up driving everywhere with a scanner in the odb port for a few weeks and logging everything, the only thing I could see was the battery voltage was ever so slightly low and seemed quite variable at points when the stop start would fail (like yours once failed it would need a full ignition cycle)
Anyway I did a full "repair" cycle charge with a £40 Halfords battery charger and its been fine for the last 3 years (60,000) miles. I think it may have coincided with cold weather too.
Make of that what you will...
Anyway I did a full "repair" cycle charge with a £40 Halfords battery charger and its been fine for the last 3 years (60,000) miles. I think it may have coincided with cold weather too.
Make of that what you will...
The car is 21/2 years old and has done 25k miles or so. A battery should last longer than that!
Last one I had that failed was on a 2001 Passat, two visits from the AA in six weeks, first time they changed the battery (less than 2 Years old), the second time the new battery was very low but OK, AAPatrolman thought there was something left on in the car (wasn’t) and called base to check - everything off current on the battery was within spec at 1.8 Amps! Never happened again in the balance of the four years I had it, even when it stood for 2 1/2 weeks when I had knee surgery and could not drive.
If a new car (I.e. in warranty) Isn’t charging the battery adequately then either the battery is faulty or the car is faulty.
Last one I had that failed was on a 2001 Passat, two visits from the AA in six weeks, first time they changed the battery (less than 2 Years old), the second time the new battery was very low but OK, AAPatrolman thought there was something left on in the car (wasn’t) and called base to check - everything off current on the battery was within spec at 1.8 Amps! Never happened again in the balance of the four years I had it, even when it stood for 2 1/2 weeks when I had knee surgery and could not drive.
If a new car (I.e. in warranty) Isn’t charging the battery adequately then either the battery is faulty or the car is faulty.
IJWS15 said:
The car is 21/2 years old and has done 25k miles or so. A battery should last longer than that!
Last one I had that failed was on a 2001 Passat, two visits from the AA in six weeks, first time they changed the battery (less than 2 Years old), the second time the new battery was very low but OK, AAPatrolman thought there was something left on in the car (wasn t) and called base to check - everything off current on the battery was within spec at 1.8 Amps! Never happened again in the balance of the four years I had it, even when it stood for 2 1/2 weeks when I had knee surgery and could not drive.
If a new car (I.e. in warranty) Isn t charging the battery adequately then either the battery is faulty or the car is faulty.
A battery can be bad when you buy it, can fail for a multitude of reasons at any time. Last one I had that failed was on a 2001 Passat, two visits from the AA in six weeks, first time they changed the battery (less than 2 Years old), the second time the new battery was very low but OK, AAPatrolman thought there was something left on in the car (wasn t) and called base to check - everything off current on the battery was within spec at 1.8 Amps! Never happened again in the balance of the four years I had it, even when it stood for 2 1/2 weeks when I had knee surgery and could not drive.
If a new car (I.e. in warranty) Isn t charging the battery adequately then either the battery is faulty or the car is faulty.
Saying its only 2.5 years old so it can t be that is not going to fix your car, neither is asking on a forum for advice and ignoring advice because you are right lol.
A neighbour once spent 4 days, a visit from the RAC and a mobile mechanic because he insisted its not the battery stopping his car from starting because it was turning over.
Guess what a trip to Halfords and purchasing a new battery did. ?
Why ask if you don't want to listen?
The post above yours should help lol.
Doesitdrive said:
A battery can be bad when you buy it, can fail for a multitude of reasons at any time.
Saying its only 2.5 years old so it can t be that is not going to fix your car, neither is asking on a forum for advice and ignoring advice because you are right lol.
A neighbour once spent 4 days, a visit from the RAC and a mobile mechanic because he insisted its not the battery stopping his car from starting because it was turning over.
Guess what a trip to Halfords and purchasing a new battery did. ?
Why ask if you don't want to listen?
The post above yours should help lol.
This issue happens on all sorts of ages of 1.5TSi manual VW Group cars up to a few years old.- people report it from brand new. So it's unlikely to be a failing battery.Saying its only 2.5 years old so it can t be that is not going to fix your car, neither is asking on a forum for advice and ignoring advice because you are right lol.
A neighbour once spent 4 days, a visit from the RAC and a mobile mechanic because he insisted its not the battery stopping his car from starting because it was turning over.
Guess what a trip to Halfords and purchasing a new battery did. ?
Why ask if you don't want to listen?
The post above yours should help lol.
His car is under warranty with an ongoing fault so he can't just pop down to Halfords and buy a random battery because the first thing the dealer will blame if the fault persists is the non-OEM battery.
There's all sorts of anecdotal fixes in VW related threads but a fair number of people never sort it and get shut of the car.
ETA: Probably annoying to those who are convinced it's nothing to do with their driving, there's a long post from someone in the middle of this T-Roc thread - and basically he blames the way the car is driven! (plus the car being designed to cut the engine at low RPM) https://www.trocforums.co.uk/posts/40535/
Edited by Sheepshanks on Sunday 12th July 21:39
Sheepshanks ,your last comment is precisely what happened to us. The dealer blamed the issue on my wife's driving and I must admit that I did wonder whether this was the case. Then I took it out myself ,with my wife as passenger ,and pulling out of a roundabout at maybe 15mph in 2nd gear it died on me too (with a 32 tonne artic. right behind me). At that point I decided to get rid.......
Backtothenorth said:
Sheepshanks ,your last comment is precisely what happened to us. The dealer blamed the issue on my wife's driving and I must admit that I did wonder whether this was the case. Then I took it out myself ,with my wife as passenger ,and pulling out of a roundabout at maybe 15mph in 2nd gear it died on me too (with a 32 tonne artic. right behind me). At that point I decided to get rid.......
There's too many people reporting it for it to be down to their driving. If VW insist it is, then the car has a serious driveability issue.Having said that, as well as wife's 1.5TSi DSG Karoq, we've kept hold of daughter's old 1 litre manual Ateca, I was driving the other day and missed the place I was looking for, off a single carriageway A road, so I spun the car around at the next turn in 2nd gear. But it was uphill going back and as I tried to accelerate out of the turn the car just died - no judder or sense that it was struggling, it just stopped. Was a right panic to get it going again as I was now half into the A road.
I assume I was just going too slow and should have slipped the clutch (or used 1st), but it didn't feel too slow, and I'm always mindful of how I treat the clutch in that car as it's a biggish car with a little tiny clutch. Most manual cars will pull away from walking pace in 2nd but the Ateca doesn't like doing that at all. Maybe these cars are just too highly geared?
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