Help me with my Gti 8v
Discussion
Hi All,
My name is Craig and am new here. I am a big Gti fan but don't know a great deal.
Have just bought a 1988 Gti 8v with the big bumpers, 15" alloys and is lowered with exhaust. Just looking for some general info really. You know; spec, what to look out for, what cheap mods are good etc. I'm looking to make it mint over time really as well as use it day to day.
Can you Pro's help inform me on the Gti in general.
Cheers,
Craig
My name is Craig and am new here. I am a big Gti fan but don't know a great deal.
Have just bought a 1988 Gti 8v with the big bumpers, 15" alloys and is lowered with exhaust. Just looking for some general info really. You know; spec, what to look out for, what cheap mods are good etc. I'm looking to make it mint over time really as well as use it day to day.
Can you Pro's help inform me on the Gti in general.
Cheers,
Craig
Hi Craig,
Spec wise the 8v prudces 112bhp, 0-60mph is around 8.5 secs.
Mods? Well there are hundreds of things you can do! From a 4 branch manifold to an R32 engine swap, just depends on how far you want to go and how deep your pockets are!
If your looking to make a few general improvements, I would start with the suspension, if you havent got uprated shocks I would look at something like Koni's with adjustable dampening and a set of good springs like Eibach - this would provide excellent handling. Or if you can stretch yuo could go for coilovers, Weitec / KW / Koni / H&R are all good makes.
Id probably also look into getting some uprated discs and pads as the standard items on the 8v arent the best (if this hasnt been done already), or you could look to change to the bigger 256mm discs from the 16v - 2nd hand sets are normally plentiful.
Engine wise - the 8v like most N/A's is quite expensive to work with for little gain. A 4 branch manifold and full exhaust would be a good start, you could then look into uprated cams, big valve heads, gas flowed heads and even 2.0litre bottom end swaps from a Mk3 Gti.
If you havent already taken a look, these are some good VW sites:
http://www.edition38.com/forums
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/
http://forum.performancevwmag.com/
Hope that helps for a start.
Spec wise the 8v prudces 112bhp, 0-60mph is around 8.5 secs.
Mods? Well there are hundreds of things you can do! From a 4 branch manifold to an R32 engine swap, just depends on how far you want to go and how deep your pockets are!
If your looking to make a few general improvements, I would start with the suspension, if you havent got uprated shocks I would look at something like Koni's with adjustable dampening and a set of good springs like Eibach - this would provide excellent handling. Or if you can stretch yuo could go for coilovers, Weitec / KW / Koni / H&R are all good makes.
Id probably also look into getting some uprated discs and pads as the standard items on the 8v arent the best (if this hasnt been done already), or you could look to change to the bigger 256mm discs from the 16v - 2nd hand sets are normally plentiful.
Engine wise - the 8v like most N/A's is quite expensive to work with for little gain. A 4 branch manifold and full exhaust would be a good start, you could then look into uprated cams, big valve heads, gas flowed heads and even 2.0litre bottom end swaps from a Mk3 Gti.
If you havent already taken a look, these are some good VW sites:
http://www.edition38.com/forums
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/
http://forum.performancevwmag.com/
Hope that helps for a start.
Hi matt,
Thanks for the help. I noticed the car has discs all round, i dont know wheather thats standard or they are 16v bits?
But anyother help you can give me would be great aswell.
Thanks again
Craig
P.S am selling my Golf driver MK2: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
Thanks for the help. I noticed the car has discs all round, i dont know wheather thats standard or they are 16v bits?
But anyother help you can give me would be great aswell.
Thanks again
Craig
P.S am selling my Golf driver MK2: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
8v came with discs alround but they were only 239mm, this was the same with the 16v until 88/89 when the 16v got 256mm discs.
You could get some nice drilled and grooved discs to replace what is on there now or look into getting a 2nd hand set 16v bits which would have 256mm discs and calipers for a bit more braking power. You could then obviously get uprated pads / discs to suit/
Or if you want to go a bit bigger the G60 came with 280mm discs but you then need to look at getting wheels that clear these as its a tight fight with most 15s.
Il try and help with as many of your questions as I can
You could get some nice drilled and grooved discs to replace what is on there now or look into getting a 2nd hand set 16v bits which would have 256mm discs and calipers for a bit more braking power. You could then obviously get uprated pads / discs to suit/
Or if you want to go a bit bigger the G60 came with 280mm discs but you then need to look at getting wheels that clear these as its a tight fight with most 15s.
Il try and help with as many of your questions as I can
Edited by m4tthew on Tuesday 5th June 13:32
If yours is a an 88 car it's most likey going to be Digifant fuel injection. Pre '88 cars had the Bosch K-Jet system. Pro's and cons for both.
With regard to performance there's not a lot you can do to the 8v lump to squeeze more performance out of it. Even if you ported the head, cam'd it and put a performance air filter on it I think you'd still only be looking at about +20 BHP
Your best bet if you want a bit more power is to find a 2.0l bottom end of an oudi 80 or similar. With the above work on a 2.0l unit you'd be looking at a very drivable engine with great torque and about 170bhp
Not bad for a car which weighs under 900kg
With regard to performance there's not a lot you can do to the 8v lump to squeeze more performance out of it. Even if you ported the head, cam'd it and put a performance air filter on it I think you'd still only be looking at about +20 BHP
Your best bet if you want a bit more power is to find a 2.0l bottom end of an oudi 80 or similar. With the above work on a 2.0l unit you'd be looking at a very drivable engine with great torque and about 170bhp
Not bad for a car which weighs under 900kgAlso dont bother with an induction kit, it will sound good but will provide little gain.
Your best bet is to get a replacement panel filter like a K & N one and then attack the air box with a hole cutter attachment on a drill! Im being serious by the way, it will sound awesome when you hoof it!
A how to from matey-matey.com:
POST 88 Mk2 8v:
The air enters the air box trough a highly restrictive baffle on the front face of the air box (designed to reduce engine noise). Disconnect the rubber air intake pipe from the air flow meter and remove the rubber hoops that hold the air box in place (located on the front passenger side and rear of the box). Remove any other vacuum hoses and then remove the air box from the car. Un do the clips that hold the bottom of the box to the top and separate the two halves. The restrictive baffle should be clearly visible on the front of the box. It should be removed by gripping the lower half of the box in a vice and prising the baffle off with a screwdriver. This will dramatically open up the airway. If you already have a performance filter now would be a good time to wash and re oil it; if not now would be a good time to buy one. For further improvement try drilling as many holes as possible down the wing side of the box. Do not drill down the engine side of the box, as this will cause hot air to be drawn into the engine rather than cold air. If there is room then it would help to drill more holes in the front of the box. Also take care not to drill through the strengthening ribs as this will weaken the box. Refitting is then the reversal of removal, and if you haven't already then remove the plastic trim that sits behind the grill and mates with the now obsolete baffle.
PRE 88MK2 / 16v [K-Jet injection]
The air enters the box through the side of the air box via a very pointless looking plastic 'thing' with a very small air hole in the bottom of it. Jack up the car and remove the front driver's side wheel. Remove the wheel arch liner by undoing the Philips head screws. You will then see a large black plastic 'thing' sitting behind the wing. Unclip the top half of the air box and remove the rubber rings that hold the lower part in place. Separate the lower part of the box from the tube that runs into the inner wing and remove both the tube and lower half of the air box. Discard the tube. Remove the big plastic thing from the under the wing and bin it. If you are concerned about neatness then plug the large square hole in the inner wing with a VAG blanking plate as available in most scrappies on 1.3s and driver's etc. To further improve the airflow you should cut two largish rectangles out of the front of the air box and then drill further holes down the wing side. Do not put any holes in the engine side of the box, as this will cause hot air to be drawn into the engine and do not drill through the supporting ribs. Refitting is the reversal of removal remembering to put the air filter back in the air box when refitting.
Your best bet is to get a replacement panel filter like a K & N one and then attack the air box with a hole cutter attachment on a drill! Im being serious by the way, it will sound awesome when you hoof it!
A how to from matey-matey.com:
POST 88 Mk2 8v:
The air enters the air box trough a highly restrictive baffle on the front face of the air box (designed to reduce engine noise). Disconnect the rubber air intake pipe from the air flow meter and remove the rubber hoops that hold the air box in place (located on the front passenger side and rear of the box). Remove any other vacuum hoses and then remove the air box from the car. Un do the clips that hold the bottom of the box to the top and separate the two halves. The restrictive baffle should be clearly visible on the front of the box. It should be removed by gripping the lower half of the box in a vice and prising the baffle off with a screwdriver. This will dramatically open up the airway. If you already have a performance filter now would be a good time to wash and re oil it; if not now would be a good time to buy one. For further improvement try drilling as many holes as possible down the wing side of the box. Do not drill down the engine side of the box, as this will cause hot air to be drawn into the engine rather than cold air. If there is room then it would help to drill more holes in the front of the box. Also take care not to drill through the strengthening ribs as this will weaken the box. Refitting is then the reversal of removal, and if you haven't already then remove the plastic trim that sits behind the grill and mates with the now obsolete baffle.
PRE 88MK2 / 16v [K-Jet injection]
The air enters the box through the side of the air box via a very pointless looking plastic 'thing' with a very small air hole in the bottom of it. Jack up the car and remove the front driver's side wheel. Remove the wheel arch liner by undoing the Philips head screws. You will then see a large black plastic 'thing' sitting behind the wing. Unclip the top half of the air box and remove the rubber rings that hold the lower part in place. Separate the lower part of the box from the tube that runs into the inner wing and remove both the tube and lower half of the air box. Discard the tube. Remove the big plastic thing from the under the wing and bin it. If you are concerned about neatness then plug the large square hole in the inner wing with a VAG blanking plate as available in most scrappies on 1.3s and driver's etc. To further improve the airflow you should cut two largish rectangles out of the front of the air box and then drill further holes down the wing side. Do not put any holes in the engine side of the box, as this will cause hot air to be drawn into the engine and do not drill through the supporting ribs. Refitting is the reversal of removal remembering to put the air filter back in the air box when refitting.
I would have a look here http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90673 It helped me with my 2.0 conversion. I have not finished the change over yet but hope to have it completed by the end of the week.
4 branch manifold & exhaust system.
Prob a rolling road tune to set it all up properly.
Where abouts are you located? Stealth Racing are in Warwickshire and are well renowed for tuning and setting VWs up. Here is their site:
http://www.stealthracing.co.uk/index.php
Think they charge about £45 per hour on the rollers and a full set up takes about 1 1/2 hrs. It will be running like a dream after that.
Prob a rolling road tune to set it all up properly.
Where abouts are you located? Stealth Racing are in Warwickshire and are well renowed for tuning and setting VWs up. Here is their site:
http://www.stealthracing.co.uk/index.php
Think they charge about £45 per hour on the rollers and a full set up takes about 1 1/2 hrs. It will be running like a dream after that.
I live in Chippenham (wiltshire). Just had a look at the stealth website and they look pretty useful to be fair! I think it would be woth a drive, plus it would give me a chance to test that tuned set-up!
I can get a new cam kit from piper for around £330 in VAT. Should i stick with the fast road cam or go for an ultimate road cam kit?
Also i have never fitted one before. Is it something i can do myself? I would like to avoid splashing out for some place to do it for me really if i can.
When i buy the cam kit is there anything else you would advise getting aswell before fitting?
Thanks Guys
CJ
I can get a new cam kit from piper for around £330 in VAT. Should i stick with the fast road cam or go for an ultimate road cam kit?
Also i have never fitted one before. Is it something i can do myself? I would like to avoid splashing out for some place to do it for me really if i can.
When i buy the cam kit is there anything else you would advise getting aswell before fitting?
Thanks Guys
CJ
You could go for a vernier pulley to replace the standard camshaft pulley, as this would offer a lot more adjustability when it comes to the set up. Think these are around £100 ish or so.
Id give Stealth a ring, the main guy there is Vince and he really knows his stuff, he would be able to talk you through the best things you could do.
Id give Stealth a ring, the main guy there is Vince and he really knows his stuff, he would be able to talk you through the best things you could do.
Cheers mate.
I just gave them a ring actually!lol. I asked for a quote on a cam kit, fitting and a rolling road. The guy quoted me around £410 so i suppose with a vernier pulley it would be around £520 as an alloy pulley is £108.69 from stelth(i'm on the website now). That seems pretty good to me.
I noticed ont the gti 8v the power starts to die at about 5500rpm or nearish that. Would the cam eliminate that? Or is it a problem with the car!?
Thanks
CJ
I just gave them a ring actually!lol. I asked for a quote on a cam kit, fitting and a rolling road. The guy quoted me around £410 so i suppose with a vernier pulley it would be around £520 as an alloy pulley is £108.69 from stelth(i'm on the website now). That seems pretty good to me.
I noticed ont the gti 8v the power starts to die at about 5500rpm or nearish that. Would the cam eliminate that? Or is it a problem with the car!?
Thanks
CJ
Aye, power does drop off in the 8v, just the nature of the engine, cant remember what the redline is though? They dont have a great deal of puff above 5k rpm or so, in my experience of a standard car.
Depending on what sort of cam you go for, depends on how the power is delivered and where in the rev range it peaks. Something like the Piper one would have a higher peak power at a higher rpm than the standard one.
Depending on what sort of cam you go for, depends on how the power is delivered and where in the rev range it peaks. Something like the Piper one would have a higher peak power at a higher rpm than the standard one.
Thought so. Thats all good then. Thanks
Might have to wait a couple of months to spend that mmoney tho i think. Gunna spend some time making the car as mint as can inside first. Really want leather for it really.
I was going to ask, why does a panel filter do more for the car than an induction kit?
CJ
Might have to wait a couple of months to spend that mmoney tho i think. Gunna spend some time making the car as mint as can inside first. Really want leather for it really.
I was going to ask, why does a panel filter do more for the car than an induction kit?
CJ
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