A3 Overheating Problem - Water Pump Failure?
Discussion
As always happens, just as I think about changing one of the fleet, it starts to go wrong.
The symptoms:
1. A couple of weeks ago the car overheated (briefly, then left to cool). Fluids checked, all ok, and been fine for a thousand miles or so since.
2. It has done the same this morning, only now it appears more permanent - i.e. overheats (i.e. temp above 90) within a couple of minutes of being driven.
3. Air Con stays ice cold, even when set to 25deg+
4. Cooling fans did not kick in at 100deg+, but do switch on/off when air-con is used.
Background:
100k on the clock, still on original water pump (y'know, plastic impellors and all that entails).
Anyone any suggestions as to what else the problem could be?
Why did the fans not kick in? Is the temp sensor for the fans seperate to the temp sensor for the dashboard gauge (and therefore either i) broken or ii) not getting hot water circulated past it due to knackered pump)?
The symptoms:
1. A couple of weeks ago the car overheated (briefly, then left to cool). Fluids checked, all ok, and been fine for a thousand miles or so since.
2. It has done the same this morning, only now it appears more permanent - i.e. overheats (i.e. temp above 90) within a couple of minutes of being driven.
3. Air Con stays ice cold, even when set to 25deg+
4. Cooling fans did not kick in at 100deg+, but do switch on/off when air-con is used.
Background:
100k on the clock, still on original water pump (y'know, plastic impellors and all that entails).
Anyone any suggestions as to what else the problem could be?
Why did the fans not kick in? Is the temp sensor for the fans seperate to the temp sensor for the dashboard gauge (and therefore either i) broken or ii) not getting hot water circulated past it due to knackered pump)?
UpTheIron said:
As always happens, just as I think about changing one of the fleet, it starts to go wrong.
The symptoms:
1. A couple of weeks ago the car overheated (briefly, then left to cool). Fluids checked, all ok, and been fine for a thousand miles or so since.
2. It has done the same this morning, only now it appears more permanent - i.e. overheats (i.e. temp above 90) within a couple of minutes of being driven.
3. Air Con stays ice cold, even when set to 25deg+
4. Cooling fans did not kick in at 100deg+, but do switch on/off when air-con is used.
Background:
100k on the clock, still on original water pump (y'know, plastic impellors and all that entails).
Anyone any suggestions as to what else the problem could be?
Why did the fans not kick in? Is the temp sensor for the fans seperate to the temp sensor for the dashboard gauge (and therefore either i) broken or ii) not getting hot water circulated past it due to knackered pump)?
The mkiv gold has a well documented problem with the resistors that govern when the fans are turned on/off. Not sure if this applies to A3's, but don't see why not. I'm on 110k now, and no problems...The symptoms:
1. A couple of weeks ago the car overheated (briefly, then left to cool). Fluids checked, all ok, and been fine for a thousand miles or so since.
2. It has done the same this morning, only now it appears more permanent - i.e. overheats (i.e. temp above 90) within a couple of minutes of being driven.
3. Air Con stays ice cold, even when set to 25deg+
4. Cooling fans did not kick in at 100deg+, but do switch on/off when air-con is used.
Background:
100k on the clock, still on original water pump (y'know, plastic impellors and all that entails).
Anyone any suggestions as to what else the problem could be?
Why did the fans not kick in? Is the temp sensor for the fans seperate to the temp sensor for the dashboard gauge (and therefore either i) broken or ii) not getting hot water circulated past it due to knackered pump)?
Has it had a new cambelt ever? If not I'd get it done at the earliest opportunity. You do not want to be going at 70, when the impellor disintegrates and jams, stripping the belt of all it's teeth. VERY expensive.
When I did my cambelt and water pump, I also changed the stat which I found to be sticking too far open.
HTH
Andy
Edited by LaSarthe&Back on Tuesday 10th July 00:16
One of the easiest ways of checking the water pump is working is by removing the coolant bottle cap(when cold for obvious reasons) and getting someone to rev the engine. You should see water returning to the bottle via the return hose at the top. To do the water pump properly, the cam-belt will have to be removed so it may be worth while to replace the cam-belt, tensioner and relay roller at the same time.
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